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they are not a matching set
but some years are not the same as other years
you may not have destroyed anything ...yet
 

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All the primary clutch parts are balanced separately
 

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Ya, no. Didn’t work. I got a hold of Ben... he thinks he can help. Does anyone know if The primary will fit any sheave? Or are they a matched set ?
I'm not there, so I don't know what and how you are doing anything.
But!
The shaft of the inner sheave has a taper that matches the taper on the crank shaft.
In the center of the crank shaft is a threaded hole; it is used to secure the primary clutch assembly with a bolt that pushes it up the taper; thereby expending the taper in the sheave shaft creating a clamping force.
There is nothing else that holds the primary clutch on to the crank shaft.
The removal tool, nothing but a jacking bolt, engages threads in the sheave shaft, and pushes against the bottom of the bore in the crank shaft. Forces the primary clutch assembly of the crank shaft.
There is nothing else.
To anyone that removes the primary for the first time: make sure to put some high pressure grease on the threads and on the tip pf the removing tool (G-N Past/ Copper coat/Lubriplate) Don't use an impact wrench.
If she is not coming off at max torque for that bolt, use a 5lbs hammer and give it a solid smack (not a 'Girly' tap, a 'Manly' Smack); she will pop off.
 

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Heat it and whack it some. That broken bolt is already pulling pretty hard to pull it off.

If you ruin it, you can buy individual parts for the primary. I'll get you a picture of the crank taper in a second.
 

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i have been reading some of the dumbest comments for two weeks now, trying not to get involved but some of the comments are as dumb as "turn the lights off so she wont look so ugly"..... Well duh, shes still ugly with the lights on or off, same difference.

Smacking the face of the clutch or the shaft, probably wont do anything, the puller broke off most likely because its the wrong puller and the threads are bottomed out in the shaft, meaning the puller actually isnt putting tension on the bore of the clutch like most think, the puller threads are likely bottomed out in the center shaft of the primary, which means the puller most likely isnt even bottomed out in the crank so therefore its not actually helping any to get the clutch off the taper. I had to do exactly this same thing once on a wildcat, customer broke his puller off in a Rage 8 and i had to do exactly what you are doing. THE ONLY good way to get it apart is doing exactly what you have already done. Getting the outer half off was the hardest thing to overcome. Now you can follow my instructions close and you can have that thing apart in a half hour or less.

So here are some pictures. The head of the puller is broken off, almost guarantee because the threads of the puller bottomed out in the internal threads of the clutch bore. this caused the last thread of the puller to stack up on the first thread of the clutch shaft and the puller stopped turning, hence the next thing to go was the weakest point of the puller which you found, when the head snapped off. So the FIRST thing to do is take a metabo wheel or cut off wheel on a grinder or whatever you have and size things up. you want to make your first cut AT LEAST 3/4" past wherever the top of the puller is. CRANK THE MACHINE UP so the clutch is spinning, and then using the cut off wheel you slowly slice into the primary shaft as its spinning. You will get a smooth easy cut and when the clutch shaft gets thin you can feel the resistance soften up and you know you are about to cut all the way thru, so soften your touch and let the cut off wheel slice easily thru the clutch shaft but not start getting into the puller. The whole outer tip of the clutch shaft should easily slide right over the puller exposing the 3/4" or so of puller shank sticking out.

FullSizeR (48).jpg


use a cut off wheel like this on a grinder, thin cut off wheel also called a Metabo wheel

IMG_4234.jpg


Then you need to measure or take note carefully, the threads of the clutch start 3.090" down from the tip, that makes the start of the threads right about 1/8" above that step for the bearing. Since i suspect your puller has the first one or two threads stacked up on each other and crushed, you will need to make your second cut right at the edge of this lip for the bearing. Also, same as with the first cut, be gentle and precise. You want to cut the clutch shaft, but not get into the puller, you can feel the resistance on the wheel change as you get thin and get thru the shaft. Engine running so the clutch shaft spins and you can slowly slice thru the clutch shaft straight and smoothly and get thru the shaft but not the puller. You want to cut the shaft about 1/8" past the first threads where i suspect the puller threads are stacked up on each other which will/should allow the puller to be able to thread out by hand once you cut thru the threads.

IMG_4229.jpg


IMG_4230.jpg


Once you cut the second cut, you should be able to put a pair of vise grips on the 3/4" of puller still sticking out and turn the puller by hand to get it out. BUT if it wont come out easily dont fret, the reason you made the first cut to expose 3/4" of the shank of the puller is so that if things go awry you can get a 9/16" nut from a hardware store and slide it over the end of the shank of the exposed puller and weld the nut to the end of the shank and put your impact back on it and get the puller out with an impact.

IMG_4232.jpg


FullSizeR (48).jpg
 

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Also, to add, Once you get the puller out you can grind the end of the shaft off the puller and re-use the puller to get the clutch off the crank. Jack the machine up, fill the clutch with water, put teflon tape on the threads of the puller real tight and thick, and run the puller back in since you welded a 9/16" nut on the end of the puller you can run the puller back in the bore of the clutch threads and the hydraulic pressure will easily pop the clutch off. Dont sweat it too much thinking the puller might bottom out again, wont happen, when using this hydraulic trick your puller wont go but about 5 threads deep before it pops the clutch off. Super easy and the puller wont even get close to bottoming out. And if you need an inner sheave i know somebody that keeps them in stock.

Below is a video of me doing the water trick, its quite easy, and it will get your clutch off once you get the puller out.

 

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Never even contemplated that anyone would use an incorrect jacking bolt...
That said, Nothing I posted is incorrect! And I never recommended to smack the face or shaft of the clutch.
Well, if you can come up with the idea of using an incorrect removal tool...
For you and anyone else: Don't hit the clutch anything with a hammer, hit the correct removal tool.
 

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tips for removing clutch
first is you should have a cold crank, this is the most important tip
the pullers dont always work the first try
so dont go crazy with a big impact wrench
you may need to heat the clutch to remove it, usually on a warm crank
the water trick can work, its a mf to do on a sxs
what most do is give it a few wacks with a hammer to knock it loose with the puller
as tight as you dare
Water trick with plenty of Teflon tape. Also put a jack under middle of car and drivers side and lift that thing up! Otherwise you don’t get enough fluid to stay in. Careful though it pops off with quite a bit of force. I went to this after trying hammer and noticing that end of tool was getting slight bend.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Never even contemplated that anyone would use an incorrect jacking bolt...
i had a customer bring a machine last week, trying to pull a primary off, with a puller he got from the can-am dealer that was wrong. just becasue you click a link on amazon for a puller, or go to a dealer, dont mean its the right puller. i have had to fix a ton of these for this very reason. if you are not familiar with the clutches, you most likely dont know the difference between the right puller and the wrong puller just at a glance. even people selling pullers likely dont actually know the difference in them. there are a bunch that will physically thread into the bore, but that dont mean they will pop the clutch off.

Also two weeks ago, a guy tried to pull off a primary using a puller "his buddy told him worked" and so he ordered a kawasaki teryx puller from amazon. and yes i had to fix his as well, luckily i have done this lots and i have had to learn many different tricks to fixing peoples mess ups. You would be surprised at how many people call me DAILY asking me "what fits this" and dont even have the intention to buy from me, they use the info and go straight to amazon and hope to find it cheaper. i have had to fix and remove cheap black oxide pullers bought from amazon that were bent inside the clutch bore, fixed threads inside the crank when the puller bent inside the crank and smashed the threads up, soft pullers peeled their threads off inside the bore of the primary. I have seen this lots, way way way more than you can imagine.

Is always awesome when someone you have bought shit from comes on here and calls your comments dumb as hell when we try to help. 🖕
did i say anything about your comments specifically? i dont recall pointing fingers at you but you know that old saying, "if the shoe fits, lace that bish up and wear it"
 

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i had a customer bring a machine last week, trying to pull a primary off, with a puller he got from the can-am dealer that was wrong. just becasue you click a link on amazon for a puller, or go to a dealer, dont mean its the right puller. i have had to fix a ton of these for this very reason. if you are not familiar with the clutches, you most likely dont know the difference between the right puller and the wrong puller just at a glance. even people selling pullers likely dont actually know the difference in them. there are a bunch that will physically thread into the bore, but that dont mean they will pop the clutch off.

Also two weeks ago, a guy tried to pull off a primary using a puller "his buddy told him worked" and so he ordered a kawasaki teryx puller from amazon. and yes i had to fix his as well, luckily i have done this lots and i have had to learn many different tricks to fixing peoples mess ups. You would be surprised at how many people call me DAILY asking me "what fits this" and dont even have the intention to buy from me, they use the info and go straight to amazon and hope to find it cheaper. i have had to fix and remove cheap black oxide pullers bought from amazon that were bent inside the clutch bore, fixed threads inside the crank when the puller bent inside the crank and smashed the threads up, soft pullers peeled their threads off inside the bore of the primary. I have seen this lots, way way way more than you can imagine.



did i say anything about your comments specifically? i dont recall pointing fingers at you but you know that old saying, "if the shoe fits, lace that bish up and wear it"
WOW, Knowledge or not, class still matters and that was classless.

Tim
 

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He couldnt even get me the right spring to raisemy engagement a few hundred rpm, so I gave up. I'm sure he will comeback with a 4 paragraph bullshit response.
 

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Putting grinder in the clutch housing of a running machine to cut off any thing is "DUMB"
I don't care who's doing it
 

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Discussion Starter #77
LOL I really really appreciate all the good advice. If Ben cant help me, ill prob put the grinder to it in the spots AIRDAM said. just do it real slow. and maybe not moving. I have tried heat and love taps. I think airdam knows what he's talking about, very detailed advice and great pics. makes since. And he has prob got it down to a science and a moving crank is easier for him. its clear he's done this before. And EVO said the same thing, just not with motor running. I on the other hand have no successfully removed one clutch let alone this one. So ill grab a 12 pack. and a comfy chair. I'm waiting tell Monday to hear back from him. So might do it Tuesday. Ill keep you posted and take pics.

Thank you again
 

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Two words of advice I will offer is 1. Cut the shaft with the engine running. How are you going to get an even cut all around if it is not turning? 2. Save the beer until you are done. Good luck!
 

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