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For stubborn clutches, I have seen a shop where they fill the long post with grease and then insert the puller to pop the clutch. The grease when compressed by the puller makes it easier to separate the clutch from the crank.. guess it is hydraulic force
 

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For stubborn clutches, I have seen a shop where they fill the long post with grease and then insert the puller to pop the clutch. The grease when compressed by the puller makes it easier to separate the clutch from the crank.. guess it is hydraulic force
water is better because you dont have the huge cleanup mess. You dont want grease on the threads or cups. But that doesnt help the OP he broke off the tool inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
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Kind of, I bought EVOs kit, got the primary off the sheave, put the broken part of tool back in place and popped it off. Now I need to cut the sheave with out going through bolt. I ordered another "long" easy out kit, now that I can see the sheave, I will try n heat it up a tad. Also I have a call into a mechanic in Fallon NV. See if he's interested in helping me. Maybe he has done something like this. worth the 5 hour drive.

I am outa Sacramento, not a lot of places to take it to. And I would never take it to a dealership
 

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Anybody know the length of the crank that sticks into clutch housing? That will let him know where not to cut as I think the aluminum sleeve portion could get trimmed shorter to re expose the puller and still be clear of the crank then just put vise grips or weld a nut on it to back it out
 

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Also, you don’t need a puller but pull your secondary bolt out and remove the secondary for mor angled access if your going to grind or cut into the sheave
 

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Discussion Starter #47
EVO said the bearing rides on the crank, plus I cant cut the threaded part off or ill never get it off crank. Why pull secondary ?
 

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Had a similar issue with a friends primary, after bending two puller bolts and clutch still stuck I filled the bolt cavity with penetrating oil ( BP blaster ) let it soak overnight put a plastic cap on the clutch snout to prevent the penetrating oil from leaking out, then I heated the snout with a heat gun where the two way bearing rides. It easily pulled off by hand.
Good luck !
 

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View attachment 257150 View attachment 257151 View attachment 257149 Kind of, I bought EVOs kit, got the primary off the sheave, put the broken part of tool back in place and popped it off. Now I need to cut the sheave with out going through bolt. I ordered another "long" easy out kit, now that I can see the sheave, I will try n heat it up a tad. Also I have a call into a mechanic in Fallon NV. See if he's interested in helping me. Maybe he has done something like this. worth the 5 hour drive.

I am outa Sacramento, not a lot of places to take it to. And I would never take it to a dealership
If that mechanics name in Fallon is Ben, he top notch at what he does and CAN get it done. If it is someone else let me know and I'll give you Ben's info so as you can contact him.
 

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I don't get it? Now that the area of the taper is exposed (under the bearing) just heat it up and it will fall off.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
How do I push it off crank when the tool is threaded in and broke off? your saying if I just heat the sheave it will "pop off" with out force?
 

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How do I push it off crank when the tool is threaded in and broke off? your saying if I just heat the sheave it will "pop off" with out force?
The tool is threaded in to the sheave shaft, not the crank shaft. Work the heat around the shaft in the area of the bearing, don't create hot spots, the shaft expends and comes loose on the crank shaft taper.
 

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yes, heat the clutch fast
you do not want the crank to get hot
but its not going to fall off...lol
you will need something like a slide hammer jerk it off
 

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yes, heat the clutch fast
you do not want the crank to get hot
but its not going to fall off...lol
you will need something like a slide hammer jerk it off
The remaining removal tool is still under tension; it will fall off.
Correction, it will pop off!
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Ya, no. Didn’t work. I got a hold of Ben... he thinks he can help. Does anyone know if The primary will fit any sheave? Or are they a matched set ?
 

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Its not that they are matched so much, its they are balanced as a unit. I would by an entire new one or send your outer parts / weights / cup and springs that are still good to KWI and have him put it all together with new inner half and re-balance it for you and send it back ready to bolt on
 

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So I had the same problem and was able to use my homemade primary splitter and a hammer to pop it off. I’ll include video of what I did to seperate which should explain what you can try while still on the machine


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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