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pic of the actual part
Can’t get to it. I called evo, they had some good ideas. With the clutch tools they think I can split the primary with no damage and expose the shaft and the broken tool. Give me leverage to weld onto it. I should be able to salvage part of it. If it works. then cut the metal shaft if it doesn’t. I ordered the tools. Should have them in a week. damn things brand new, but 60HP seemed to easy to pass up 😒. $1700 for big inj kit and clutch weights and springs. Easy the vids looked.
make a video , post it just to debunk the :"easy videos". I'm sure you are not the 1st nor the last that will have this issue. Good luck
 

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Would it be a silly idea to restrain tires and slightly load the clutch up and allow the torque of the motor to break the taper lock clamp load without the primary retention bolt? Perhaps even preheating the inner sheave while doing so.
 

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breaking the taper loose with the belt is likely to throw the clutch across the room or worse when/if it comes loose
 

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OP if you decide to try to run the engine to break it lose at least put the primary cover back on.
I would still try to heat the clutch and smack it with a hard mallet first!
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Well the problem I have is the tool is locked in. So I can’t get any grease in there. If I can get the outer section off. I think I’ll have more options. This was my first time ever trying to remove a clutch. I watched lots of vids. Looked, soooooooooo Easy
 

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the water trick can work, its a mf to do on a sxs
Have you seen this done, i would like to know how much of an angle is required to get enough water in to make it work.
I have done this for years on snowmobiles, and if it is even moderately difficult I would still consider it over the standard puller method.

I have to service my machine this week so I may try this and see how far you would need to tip it over
 

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he cant hydro it as the tool is broken off just inside and barely below the face of the clutch. Did you find someone with a clutch splitter to use to pull the outer half off and see what that gets you? worst case you can then carefully slice into the back half off the sheave and expose the broken puller then remove with grips or welding on a new nut to the head etc...

please keep us updated on progress, this is most interesting post on here right now, If you were in Boise I would come help
 

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I dont believe, even after removing the movable sheave and governor cup
you can get to that bolt inside the long post
wish you good luck, your going to need it
 

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Could you drill out the 8 steel rivets on the top of the governor assembly and allow the the spring and bearing holder to come out to give you more access to the busted end ? Just a thought. . .
 

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redbang there is the governor cup taper holding it on the post
you need a puller to remove the governor
 
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