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I always lean to less paddles from my quad days. Runing at sand mt nv the steep hill and altitude made less paddles work better, for example at dumont I could run one tooth larger front sprocket.

That said I got a good deal on some 9 paddle 30" skats and buffs, they were only good for about one car length it that at pismo over the bighorns, sold them before ever taking them to sand mt.

My 9ther thought on the buffs adding stress is the the fro ts will only be able to turn as much as the rears so it wouldn't add stress, I just dont know how the system works to know
 

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I would think so?

I would think it would be proportional assuming you have a paddle that can bite correctly?

To move an equals amount of weight it would seem there would be twice the stress in the rear if the front has near as can be called no pulling power?

What confuses me is when in a compromised position say stopped on the face of a steep hill, could a front rear paddle pull out and drive away while a larger rear paddle only and front buff just dig in?

And where is that compromise beneficial as to make it the default configuration for real life as opposed to "in theory" might provide better overall traction in loose sand?
I'm running the set of 30-14-14-14 molded pro armor in rear that came with the car when I bought it which are way to heavy and too much paddle for the machine. I do like a tough tire due to the terrain with tree roots being the culprit.

No one runs paddles in the front unless you're running some type of 4wd sand drag rail set up to run straight line only, otherwise they would be hell to steer with. The System 3 SS360 would be as much as I would want to go for a sand tire in the front that a type of cross designed low height paddle which I'm considering. People seem to do fine with even no tread/buffs or even the stock bighorns in the front. Mine are ribbed down the center for better steering and I'm sure they add to the bite. You don't need much up front to pull you up in 4wd but if you're riding in areas with a lot of tight fast turns it helps to have a bit of traction or a rib design for steering.

I believe you're over thinking and the things questioned have been proven out with the current offerings.
Bottom line is to go as light as possible for you riding style/terrain as minimal paddle/tread as you can get away with matching the HP your machine is putting out.
 

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I sure see a lot of these out here on the Oregon Dune Trails. Happy medium?
I run these "Tributes" on my RS in Oregon but I can say, they were fine at Glamis too. As said, Oregon is full of tree shots and most of the time the sand is wet too. You turn around a bunch of sea grass to climb a steep, tall dune with no run at it. That's when I lock the front diff.

The Tributes have the rib for steering as well as low profile paddles for pulling the front in the direction you want to go. On quads and even 3 wheelers I found that buff's don't steer well. A ribbed tire was always better.

As far as 4x4 stress, mark the bottom of each tire, then drive forward one revolution. If both marks are at the same location, the tires are the same size. Otherwise, adjust the air pressure some to bring them closer to each other.
 

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As said, Oregon is full of tree shots and most of the time the sand is wet too. You turn around a bunch of sea grass to climb a steep, tall dune with no run at it.
It's funny that you mention the tree shots as that's what I built my 06 Rotax Rhino for in 2009...use to motor up Banshee Hill backwards before the top "S" corner was straightened out. Was a hoot to see the looks on people's faces at the top seeing a silver Rhino hauling butt backwards towards them...fun days!
 

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I run the STU rear and the Tribute front.

The STU slides more than a SKAT and the the extra pull up front from the Tribute is nice when running 4X4.

I switch back and forth between 2x4 and 4x4 depending on mood and the pace.

Tim
Tribute not Liberty
 

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Oregon, yup, tree roots, shoots and shots!
And if you ride those quad trails, the right tire is pretty important.

I would be ok with my 30-14-14-14 heavy molded tire if my belt and HP could keep up as they actually work great.
They are strong and can grip the sand when needed. However they would better purpose a 300hp+ non belt driven machine.
 

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Before I get shot for the title this is not about what kind of paddle is best!
I have tried several and found I like running skat traks as they seem to do the best for me and my driving style so I am good to go there.

My question is has anyone ran paddles on the front for better climbing, acceleration, handling etc... in fwd or is there just an obvious reason why front buffs are the way to go? I did search on the forum but did not see an answer to this questions so if I missed it please forgive me.
I built a set of scat front blades exciter blade for kids quads on the inside of the tire to be in the sand as little as possible at speed and work more on the low end. They kinda help hold on side hilling and that’s where it stops. They kill top speed really bad . They were a super light weight setup buffed down to nothing. Where as those super heavy tributes would suck the power out of your car. The lightest tire and wheel combination is the best way to go for many reasons ie less rotating mass frees up Hp and less stress on the belts, car reacts better with faster throttle response Car slows down better when braking . Things to think about if your wanting better performance.
 
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