Have any of you guys used one of the Burk HID kits off of Ebay? If so can you put the HID's on the High and Low beams? I was looking and his instructions said to just put them on the low beams. why is that?
Typically you want to keep your low-speed compression and rebound within about 3-4 clicks of each other. The way you have the 'clickers' set, the wheel will compress quickly on impact but expand (rebound) slowly. The end result is the wheel will not follow the ground smoothly - this is where the harsh ride comes from.My rear shocks are now at 0 high and low speed compression. Still a little too stiff. The rebound is going to wind up somewhere around 10 to 15 clicks.
Can you explain this cause I'm not understanding the reasoning.Typically you want to keep your low-speed compression and rebound within about 3-4 clicks of each other. The way you have the 'clickers' set, the wheel will compress quickly on impact but expand (rebound) slowly. The end result is the wheel will not follow the ground smoothly - this is where the harsh ride comes from.
As you fine-tune the clickers try to keep the low-speed compression and rebound settings close to each other.
I have Burke's (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Can-Am-Comm...ors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c9d307c9) HIDs on all my quads. On my KFX 700 I have the Terex light kit with halogen on low beam and HID on high beam. On both my KFX 450, and my LTZ 400 I have HID on the low beam and nothing on High beam. Some of his kits do have a high and low beam and some don't. Depends on what bulb type, size, and base are available to fit a particular application. The reason for putting them on low beam vs high beam....? It's just the way the plugs were pre-wired. I haven't orderd a set for the Mavrick yet, but I'm assuming you install them on the low beam and leave the high beam intact?Have any of you guys used one of the Burk HID kits off of Ebay? If so can you put the HID's on the High and Low beams? I was looking and his instructions said to just put them on the low beams. why is that?
To reiterate, we're talking about low-speed compression adjusters and rebound adjusters. These adjusters (clickers) allow a certain amount of fluid to bypass the shim stack. The shim stack in the shock is what provides the damping (there is one or more for the low-speed compression and for the rebound).Can you explain this cause I'm not understanding the reasoning.
I don't understand how there is a relation between slow speed clicks and rebounds clicks.
Jeff, I've never heard any one tune a shock like that, not saying its wrong but I don't really think its the best way to go about it. I'm not trying to argue one bit but simply explain my reasoning behind that.To reiterate, we're talking about low-speed compression adjusters and rebound adjusters. These adjusters (clickers) allow a certain amount of fluid to bypass the shim stack. The shim stack in the shock is what provides the damping (there is one more for the low-speed compression and for the rebound).
As you turn the adjuster out (typically) you allow more fluid to bypass the shim stack, thereby softening the damping action.
Put simply the low-speed compression adjuster controls how quickly the shock will compress; the rebound adjuster controls how quickly the shock will expand. It's more complicated than that but its not a bad way to think about it.
When you want to 'soften' the damping action of the shock, you should move the low-speed compression and rebound adjusters together. This keeps the shock action working at basically the same speed and it compresses and expands. To adjust for differing terrain you can adjust 1-3 clicks on the low-speed compression or rebound independently.
Lots of square edge bumps, you might back the compression out two clicks to soften the initial impact
Sand, you might add two clicks of rebound.
The shocks on the X rs have a lot of potential. You should be able to find a sweet spot and only have to make minor changes from there.
Alex, thanks for the reply. In the interest of full disclosure, I don't have a Maverick yet and I come from a Motocross background. As an amateur I still spend a fair amount of time working with the suspension.Jeff, I've never heard any one tune a shock like that, not saying its wrong but I don't really think its the best way to go about it. I'm not trying to argue one bit but simply explain my reasoning behind that.
The rebound is the only adjustment that bypasses fluid around the piston. The compression adjustment is used by slowing down the flow of the fluid from the body of the shock to the reservoir due to the shock's shaft displacing fluid with something similar to a metering valve. For heat sake the more you close off the rebound the less heat it will create and the more you open up the compression the less it will heat up.
The compression and rebound are completely independent of each other. The rebound is there to control the expansion of the spring. I've never had to adjust the rebound on a race vehicle while I was changing compression valving or adjustment, only when a spring rate is changed or a dual rate gets adjusted which doesn't apply here. Once rebound is dialed in it rarely needs to get changed in a high performance application, at least that's what I've found out here on the east coast. Generally you want the rebound as fast as possible (that you can control) but not slow enough to allow it to pack up. Your rear rebound adjustment is mainly the one that makes you lawn dart into the ground and that's due to the valving not being able to control the expansion of the spring. The can also be caused in conjunction with compression valving but that's like opening a can or worms. The more you slow the rebound down to control the bucking the less forgiveness you have in the compression because since you are not letting the shock push out as fast as it wants your compression now has to counter your adjustment. This I think is what you were trying to explain. Now the compression does get changed as driving conditions may very from track to track or different types of terrain. I do agree that the XRS shocks have a lot of potential but not with the factory valving in the shocks or progressive springs. In a performance application the shocks should be tuned mostly by the valving and fine tuned with the adjusters. While the Maverick valving is decent from the factory there's no way the external adjusters are going to "fix it" or get it to its potential.
The reality is the external compression adjustments don't offer as broad of an adjustment as everyone thinks they do but low speed compression adjustments do offer more than double adjustment in pounds as the high speed adjustment. I have dyno sheets that show what I'm talking about.
For the average Joe I would have the rebound adjustments set in the middle and when the vehicle starts to get bouncy you need to slow the rebound down or when you feel like you cant keep the tires on the ground, which would be packing up and you would speed it up. The high and low speed adjustments should be all the way out and then tighten them up as needed to control bottoming. You want to use all the travel that the shock has to offer so keep an eye on the shock shaft to see if the wiper has taken the dust off or if the dust is building up due to it never getting wiped of the shock shaft, zip ties make this extremely simple. Also I don't think the average Joe is going to complain about it much but I think its due to the fact that they don't know how good their suspension can be. If average Joe took one ride in a tuned vehicle compared to a stock one with tweaked external adjustments it you blow their mind.
This is all opinion from tuning race vehicles over the last couple years, this has worked best for me. Some techniques were better for other people.