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Thanks, I'm a hair away of buying one out west and having it shipped to me. I have cash just waiting to be spent lol
 

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I see by your pictures they have put a double wall on the front header pipe where it passes down alongside the engine. That should reduce the heat and fire hazard problems that the commander had. Keep the pics coming, good stuff thanks! Also curious how many turns it will take for the visco lok to engage...
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
Yeah, I forgot to mention the double wall front header. It shows that CA is listening and fixing our complaints. There is also foam on the back side of the engine cover. On the front diff, I jacked it up, and tried a couple of things, but I'm not sure exactly how it's supposed to work. If I get both tires off the ground, it's an open diff. I then set one tire on the ground, and the tire in the air won't turn. I don't see a way to check it without having a set of rollers like they do in the commercials. Or do I need to jack both ends up, then hold one front tire, give it a little gas, and count how many revo's the other three tires spin? That's probably what I have to do.
 

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That sounds good, explains the reduction in engine heat in the cab. Two more commander issues addressed, engine noise and heat!!

What you need to do to test the front diff is:

- make sure it is in neutral, park brake off and 2x4 so the front drive shaft can spin freely, you may have to have the key on to get it in 2x4 but should not need to have it running

- block rear tires and jack one front tire off the ground, leave the other one down

-spin the tire in the air quickly by hand and count revolutions till it starts to bind up to the point where you can no longer turn it quickly
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
The quality of this thing keeps amazing me as I look over everything! Polaris seems like their engineers are in china designing for them. I'd give them a rating of 5 out of 10. The Rhino is a dog. But you can tell that it is designed by people in Japan that know what they're doing. Very good quality. I'd give them a rating of 10 out of 10. And I'm talking about the quality of the vehicle and the frame design regarding strength and the use of gussets. The Maverick is I'd say 15% better built then a Rhino. That would make it a 11.5 out of 10! The rear upper shock mount is off road race car quality. Fully boxed in. On the Rhino, if you lawn darted, the lower a arm would kink the frame inward at the rear mount. The solution was to weld a tube in to connect the left a arm mount to the right one. The Mav already has that tube there, plus it has boxed in gussets welded to it! From a fabricators point of view, absolutely perfect!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
That sounds good, explains the reduction in engine heat in the cab. Two more commander issues addressed, engine noise and heat!!

What you need to do to test the front diff is:

- make sure it is in neutral, park brake off and 2x4 so the front drive shaft can spin freely, you may have to have the key on to get it in 2x4 but should not need to have it running

- block rear tires and jack one front tire off the ground, leave the other one down

-spin the tire in the air quickly by hand and count revolutions till it starts to bind up to the point where you can no longer turn it quickly
Uh oh! I just wasn't turning it fast enough and enough times yesterday. By hand, it takes about 4 1/2 turns till it starts to have a limited slip type resistance.
 

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Yeah, the faster you spin it the quicker it will lock up. If you turn it slowly it will not lock at all as the pressure bleeds off just as fast as the pump is pumping.

4 1/2 turns that does not sound too great. Thanks for the report. Looks like a commander QE front diff will be in order once we can confirm it will bolt into place. The stock diff will be good the way it is for duneing and mud running, but the guys looking to rock crawl or ride technical trails are going to want a QE upgrade.
 

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Sweet bike..is the x rs worth the money over the base in your opinion? I kinda prefer the looks of the base but the bead locks and gauges are trying to sell me on the x rs.
 

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Sweet bike..is the x rs worth the money over the base in your opinion? I kinda prefer the looks of the base but the bead locks and gauges are trying to sell me on the x rs.
I drove both models on Sunday and IMO the extra $ for the X-rs is well worth it. For me, its almost worth it just for the bigger shocks. They are 25% bigger dia. and its a noticeable difference when driving. Then you get an easier to read gauge cluster and beadlocks. That makes it a no brainer for me. I think Glamisfan will agree with my reasoning.
 

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Thanks, I'm a hair away of buying one out west and having it shipped to me. I have cash just waiting to be spent lol
It seems like more dealers are receiving their deliveries everyday.
So you just need to call some so cal dealers and you will find one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Sweet bike..is the x rs worth the money over the base in your opinion? I kinda prefer the looks of the base but the bead locks and gauges are trying to sell me on the x rs.
I'm cheap! I was going to get the base model. I already have a set of bead locks for it. And I had 2 1/2" shocks on my 4000 lb pre runner and it worked great. So, 2" shocks on a 1400 lb sxs are plenty of shock. But, it dawned on me a week ago that if I get the xrs, I'll get most of that extra money spent on it back when I sell it! That made it easy to change my mind! The adjustable rebound, and high and low speed compression is a big deal! You can set it up to your style and terrain. The guage cluster is the bomb! And now I have 2 sets of bead locks :):):) The dealers I've taken to also said that they are going to be getting something like 4 xrs for every 1 x.
 
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