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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello,

I spend today 6 hrs. trying to get my clutch setup correctly.
I think I'm on the right track but still some finetuning needed.

I pull my hat to all clutch tuners.....once you pulled the flyweights a few times, it's getting old :crazy:

May this thread will help one or another down the road.


Here is what I have.

Maverick 1000, stock tires, stock motor (besides clutches :smile:)
I ride at 6000 feet elevation.
Primary has the gold spring, secondary has the pink spring and a 42 degree hélix.

Here is the progression throughout the day.

Starting point: this run was done in ECO mode, so it's no real comparison.
Tungsten at the heel, 2 Washers center, 4 washers at the tip.

Tungsten at the heel, 2 Washers at the center, 2 Washers at the tip.

Tungsten at the heel, 1 Washer at the center, 1 Washer at the tip.

Tungsten at the heel, 0 Washer at the center, 0 Washer at the tip. I hit the rev limiter at higher speeds.

4 Washers at the heel, 0 Washers at the center, 1 Washer at the tip. I hit the rev limiter first time at 65KM/H, kept hitting it.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
4 Washers at the heel, 1 Washer at the center, 2 Washers at the tip. I think I hit the rev. limiter during initial over rev.


This is where I stand right now, I think tomorrow I will lighten up the heel a bit more and add one more washer to the tip but I'm concerned that I lose some low end grunt by doing so, it also will increase the initial over rev....?
I'm hoping to get the RPM's as flat as possible throughout the whole speed range.


Well, if you have any suggestions other than what I'm mentioning above, please go ahead.

I also post pictures of each stage and an Excel chart I made to help visualize the changes.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Looks like your getting it really close.
Yeah, kind off.....
It's over revving during initial take off (I'll do some testing tomorrow on black top, all those vids where run on cobble stone roads). Maybe on blacktop the over rev is gone.
It also does not go up to 7700-7800 at lower speeds, it's creeping up while speed increases.... Not a flat RPM line as I'd like to get....
Well, it's already much better than what it was this morning. Tomorrow is another day with some more testing and adjusting.



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I would lighten the heel by about 2-3 grams and add that to the tip. That should get your im shift rpm up and help game the over rev a little, also will help bring down your rpms on the top end.

Got your emails. Been doing the Christmas thing, I'll be in touch.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I would lighten the heel by about 2-3 grams and add that to the tip. That should get your im shift rpm up and help game the over rev a little, also will help bring down your rpms on the top end.

Got your emails. Been doing the Christmas thing, I'll be in touch.
Thanks Kris,

That's what I thought as well, lighter at the heel and heavier at the tip.

Enjoy the holidays.


Alex




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Wow.... why are these clutches so F*ckin hard to tune?? I mean you would think with all stock setup people would have these clutches just nailed down, and all you would have to do is adjust for your elevation and a little primary weight change for a few variables. Not gonna lie for the money spent on these clutches they don't look like there working worth a sh*t, rpm is all over the place. I am sure you'll get it nailed down, I just can't believe everyone has to do all this tuning to get them to work like they should.

Coming from clutching my sleds and just changing some primary weight and they work perfect, I can't believe how hard these are to get dialed...
 

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Remember it's not the outty buddy =)
 

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clutches

Wow.... why are these clutches so F*ckin hard to tune?? I mean you would think with all stock setup people would have these clutches just nailed down, and all you would have to do is adjust for your elevation and a little primary weight change for a few variables. Not gonna lie for the money spent on these clutches they don't look like there working worth a sh*t, rpm is all over the place. I am sure you'll get it nailed down, I just can't believe everyone has to do all this tuning to get them to work like they should.

Coming from clutching my sleds and just changing some primary weight and they work perfect, I can't believe how hard these are to get dialed...
They have too be in order to meet the needs and riding style of so many different riders in a variety of conditions. The rage 6 and 8 are even more adjustable which allow you apply more hp and adjust for that hp better. The best thing about the rage 6 and rage 8 is that they wear less over time than the rage 3.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wow.... why are these clutches so F*ckin hard to tune?? I mean you would think with all stock setup people would have these clutches just nailed down, and all you would have to do is adjust for your elevation and a little primary weight change for a few variables. Not gonna lie for the money spent on these clutches they don't look like there working worth a sh*t, rpm is all over the place. I am sure you'll get it nailed down, I just can't believe everyone has to do all this tuning to get them to work like they should.

Coming from clutching my sleds and just changing some primary weight and they work perfect, I can't believe how hard these are to get dialed...
I have to admit, I never did much with a clutch, so my little knowledge is probably the reason why I did so many different setups and I'm still not there.

I think it's pretty hard for all the clutch-sellers to get the setup right-on without any fine tuning needed. There are so many variances which influence the proper setting of the clutch, so I'd say it's pretty much impossible to have the perfect clutch right out of the box.

It's time consuming but I like this stuff of fiddling around and I learn along the way, so I don't mind.



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Discussion Starter #16
They have too be in order to meet the needs and riding style of so many different riders in a variety of conditions. The rage 6 and 8 are even more adjustable which allow you apply more hp and adjust for that hp better. The best thing about the rage 6 and rage 8 is that they wear less over time than the rage 3.
Did you work with the rage 3, rage 6 and the rage 8?
Before I pulled the trigger I was doing some reading on what I'd need.
I desired to take the rage 3 since the extra adjustability was IMHO more important for high power machines.....I did not read anything about less wear on the 6 or the 8.



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Did you work with the rage 3, rage 6 and the rage 8?
Before I pulled the trigger I was doing some reading on what I'd need.
I desired to take the rage 3 since the extra adjustability was IMHO more important for high power machines.....I did not read anything about less wear on the 6 or the 8.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
I've been rocking a full stm clutch for 3 years now. Adam (airdam) and Kelly have been my tutors over the years and what I know is from talking to them and changing my clutch as I add HP and move between different cars. The rage 3 is the low in of the stm family and the rage 6 and 8 are the high end of the family with more durablity and adjustability in the clutch. Kelly told me just the other day that the rage 3 customers have to do much more maintence than us rage 6 and rage 8 clutch owners. I've had my clutch for 2 years with over 2000 miles and the tolerences are still good along with other components within the clutch. At the end of the season I'm sure the clutch will need to be pulled and parts replaced.
 

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I've been rocking a full stm clutch for 3 years now. Adam (airdam) and Kelly have been my tutors over the years and what I know is from talking to them and changing my clutch as I add HP and move between different cars. The rage 3 is the low in of the stm family and the rage 6 and 8 are the high end of the family with more durablity and adjustability in the clutch. Kelly told me just the other day that the rage 3 customers have to do much more maintence than us rage 6 and rage 8 clutch owners. I've had my clutch for 2 years with over 2000 miles and the tolerences are still good along with other components within the clutch. At the end of the season I'm sure the clutch will need to be pulled and parts replaced.
I've never seen anyone have to do anymore maintenance to a Rage 3 than a Rage 6 or 8. I'm interested in what exactly needed to be changed more in the rage 3 over the 6 and 8. I have been tuning STM clutches since 2007 and have never saw this. If tuned properly, on the same car, a rage 3, 6, and 8 will all run right beside each other. The only thing that changes is the "tune ability" and that's it. A few more features come in. Like being able to adjust the engagement, get more low end belt grip, play with over rev, etc. But these all fall under the "tune ability" category.
 

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The mav is especially hard on these clutches...racers and high hp guys are advised to get the upgraded steel spiders for the rage 6 and 8. The rage 3 seems to have wear more than the others according to Kelly. He gets much more maintence business from owners of the rage 3 then the rage 6 or 8 guys
 

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The mav is especially hard on these clutches...racers and high hp guys are advised to get the upgraded steel spiders for the rage 6 and 8. The rage 3 seems to have wear more than the others according to Kelly. He gets much more maintence business from owners of the rage 3 then the rage 6 or 8 guys
I really am curious as to what's wearing out more.... He could get more service work on them because there are actually more rage 3's out there than the 6/8. Just doesn't make sense... Because there's actually less parts to wear out on the 3 arm clutch than the 6 or 8.

See if you could find out for me. I've tried contacting Kelly on multiple occasions and have had zero luck.

And as far as the steel spider is concerned. That has nothing to do with a rage 3 needing more "maintenance" than the 6 or 8.
 
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