My primary bolt broke a month ago. It took out the entire cvt system. So I ordered an ///AIRDAM primary. It took 4 weeks for the oem replacement parts to come in! In the mean time my CVTech from ///AIRDAM came in. I asked the dealership about putting an aftermarket primary on. He said that only the original 6 month warranty covers the cvt system, after that you're on your own no matter what extended warranty you have. He said if I bring in my aftermarket primary, that they would install it and give me the new oem primary to take home. That sounded good to me, so that's what I did. I've owned the Maverick for 3 months, and 1 of those months it was in the shop! That really sucked!
Today I finally picked up the Mav from the dealer. They installed my aftermarket primary, a new secondary, new belt, new seals in the rear diff cause the input seal was seeping oil out, one new cv boot that started slinging grease, and a new battery, all under warranty!
I had them use the ARP primary bolt that I got from ///AIRDAM, I also got an ARP secondary bolt from him too, but I'll get to that later. I told them that the oem bolt takes 79 pounds of torque, and that this is an ARP bolt, so could they torque it to 110 pounds of torque. The mechanic said that when it gets up that high, that they really don't have a way to torque it down. I said ok, I'll do it when I get it home. I tried the strap method to hold it down, but that didn't work. I was afraid to use a piece of metal to go between it and the frame, but I didn't want to take a chance on it breaking a piece off of the CVTech.
///AIRDAM always just uses an impact. Well, this past week I played with my 1/2 inch electric impact to find out what kind of torque it applies. First I put the ARP primary bolt in a 1inch tube, with washers in each side, and the nut in a vice,and hit it with the impact. Next, I used my old school torque wrench to see how much torque was applied to it. It put about 90 pounds on it. Next I did the same to a grade 8 half inch bolt. But it was an inch shorter, so I used a larger tube with some washers that bent in a little as I tightened it. It took about 120 pounds of torque. I guess because of the washers flexing, and the lower grade bolt, somehow more torque was applied. The point is that I learned what my impact would do, in case I had to use it. Well I did have to use it. I hammered it on the primary bolt, and it barely moved, so the dealer did a good job on it.
Next I went to install the torsional secondary spring that I got from Adam(///AIRDAM) per his recommendation. It was a bear. I watched his video a few times as I was trying to install it. Every time I would try to twist it and then push it in, it would bind a little bit, and it just wouldn't push in. I don't think that two people could get in there at one time either. So I finally t a four foot prybar, and got it on. Once I got the ARP secondary bolt in by hand, and what I thought was lined up, I hit it lightly with the impact. I then used the spreader bolt to spread the secondary to see if it was lined up rite, and it was. I then hit it again with the impact a little more. Now I wanted to try and torque it down. The stock bolt takes 45 pounds, so I figure this one should be good for 60. If you don't get the secondary bolt tight enough, it can back out. I also applied some red Loctite. On this one I did feel comfortable putting a six inch piece of aluminum in between a fin on the secondary and the frame. I used the torque wrench to finish it off.
Now on to my first ride with it. It works just like the oem one, but with no worrying that it'll break and leave me stranded in the middle on nowhere and another month of down time!!! Top speed in the dirt seemed to be the same, at 73 mph. I didn't have a long enough run in the dirt to find out if it had any more. Engine braking was the same as stock, which is excellent. Engagement was as smooth as butter. I did take it down a blacktop road, and wow, I hit 80 mph! Then I turned around and could only get 77. The first run was slightly down hill and with a tailwind. But still, 80mph!
I put 15 miles on it. When I got home, I hit both bolts with the impact again, and they were good. The texture that Adam put on the primary, which seems quite heavy, was 90 percent worn down. So it's really just for break in, IMHO.
The primary costs $800. I did not send him my secondary to be machined, but he charges $100 for that. He charges $40 for the primary puller tool. The primary bolt that he has is either $15, or $30. Not sure what the secondary bolt costs. I was surprised when I pulled the oem secondary bolt out that it too was cut down to make it weaker. So I would highly recommend getting both of Adam's stronger one's!
So in total I spent $940 to fix what is a horrible, weak, pathetic,crappy, sorry, pos,terrible, useless BRP Can Am primary! Anyone with a thorough mechanical background can take one look at it and tell you that. Cheers!
Today I finally picked up the Mav from the dealer. They installed my aftermarket primary, a new secondary, new belt, new seals in the rear diff cause the input seal was seeping oil out, one new cv boot that started slinging grease, and a new battery, all under warranty!
I had them use the ARP primary bolt that I got from ///AIRDAM, I also got an ARP secondary bolt from him too, but I'll get to that later. I told them that the oem bolt takes 79 pounds of torque, and that this is an ARP bolt, so could they torque it to 110 pounds of torque. The mechanic said that when it gets up that high, that they really don't have a way to torque it down. I said ok, I'll do it when I get it home. I tried the strap method to hold it down, but that didn't work. I was afraid to use a piece of metal to go between it and the frame, but I didn't want to take a chance on it breaking a piece off of the CVTech.
///AIRDAM always just uses an impact. Well, this past week I played with my 1/2 inch electric impact to find out what kind of torque it applies. First I put the ARP primary bolt in a 1inch tube, with washers in each side, and the nut in a vice,and hit it with the impact. Next, I used my old school torque wrench to see how much torque was applied to it. It put about 90 pounds on it. Next I did the same to a grade 8 half inch bolt. But it was an inch shorter, so I used a larger tube with some washers that bent in a little as I tightened it. It took about 120 pounds of torque. I guess because of the washers flexing, and the lower grade bolt, somehow more torque was applied. The point is that I learned what my impact would do, in case I had to use it. Well I did have to use it. I hammered it on the primary bolt, and it barely moved, so the dealer did a good job on it.
Next I went to install the torsional secondary spring that I got from Adam(///AIRDAM) per his recommendation. It was a bear. I watched his video a few times as I was trying to install it. Every time I would try to twist it and then push it in, it would bind a little bit, and it just wouldn't push in. I don't think that two people could get in there at one time either. So I finally t a four foot prybar, and got it on. Once I got the ARP secondary bolt in by hand, and what I thought was lined up, I hit it lightly with the impact. I then used the spreader bolt to spread the secondary to see if it was lined up rite, and it was. I then hit it again with the impact a little more. Now I wanted to try and torque it down. The stock bolt takes 45 pounds, so I figure this one should be good for 60. If you don't get the secondary bolt tight enough, it can back out. I also applied some red Loctite. On this one I did feel comfortable putting a six inch piece of aluminum in between a fin on the secondary and the frame. I used the torque wrench to finish it off.
Now on to my first ride with it. It works just like the oem one, but with no worrying that it'll break and leave me stranded in the middle on nowhere and another month of down time!!! Top speed in the dirt seemed to be the same, at 73 mph. I didn't have a long enough run in the dirt to find out if it had any more. Engine braking was the same as stock, which is excellent. Engagement was as smooth as butter. I did take it down a blacktop road, and wow, I hit 80 mph! Then I turned around and could only get 77. The first run was slightly down hill and with a tailwind. But still, 80mph!
I put 15 miles on it. When I got home, I hit both bolts with the impact again, and they were good. The texture that Adam put on the primary, which seems quite heavy, was 90 percent worn down. So it's really just for break in, IMHO.
The primary costs $800. I did not send him my secondary to be machined, but he charges $100 for that. He charges $40 for the primary puller tool. The primary bolt that he has is either $15, or $30. Not sure what the secondary bolt costs. I was surprised when I pulled the oem secondary bolt out that it too was cut down to make it weaker. So I would highly recommend getting both of Adam's stronger one's!
So in total I spent $940 to fix what is a horrible, weak, pathetic,crappy, sorry, pos,terrible, useless BRP Can Am primary! Anyone with a thorough mechanical background can take one look at it and tell you that. Cheers!