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Hi HP - You know, I have not tried it in reverse! I will try this this weekend around the block. So far this on forward movement only, and will not show up at idle. Only after moving forward for short bit.
I doubt this will be your problem since you said you've already got almost 800 miles on it ... but.. I have the same year and model. I took my back to the dealer 3 or 4 times for the same problem and codes. Pull the plugs and see how much sealer (looks like white teflon tape but it's sprayed on). My electrodes were fine, but the threads were covered top to bottom on the plugs preventing them from properly grounding. They installed some new OEM plugs and wire brushed back the sealant baring 1/2 of threads. Instantly fixed..never another problem. I doubt that's your deal...but it's easy to check. The plug threads should be only sealed part way down..not all the way. It's a known problem at least for 2018 turbo X-3s. Good luck. Keep us posted.
 

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Ok guys, I really need some help. My rig keeps going into limp mode and the check engine light comes on. Checked the codes, it is P0301, P0302. Yes, I have read through the many posts on here for this issue (misfire). I took it to the dealer, they said I needed a new belt. I called BS and here's why: IT ONLY HAPPENS WHEN I USE THE WHITE (PERFORMANCE) KEY!!!

The machine will run without issue with the Standard (Green) key, no matter how hard I hammer it. I can run it all day without any codes, any check engine light, any issues whatsoever. But as soon as I put the White key in, I can just drive it around my block once at 20 mph or less and the check engine light comes on. When out in the desert this last weekend, it will do it no matter how hard or soft I drive, within 15-20 seconds of moving.

I have checked all my grounds (which if this was the issue, it should happen with either key). I have taken out and cleaned the spark plugs (again, if this was the issue, it should happen with either key). I replaced the belt (I can understand that the Performance key allows the engine to make more power, but if it was the belt, it shouldn't happen just cruising around my block at 20 mph). Still happening!!! This is driving me crazy and my dealer doesn't know chit. Any help from you guys would be greatly appreciated! Again, to be clear, this only happens when using the Performance key in the machine, which I just can't understand.

Thanks in advance for your help!
Try a new belt. When a belt sensor detects belt slipping it usually goes to Limp mode and engine check light will be ON. And on computer it will say 2nd cylinder misfired.
 

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Are you running factory tune? When you pulled the plugs and cleaned the anti seaze off did you check the gap? If you are running an after market tune gap is crucial. what octane fuel are you running? Check the clutch itself, the sheaves and rollers in the secondary. If we can help any further call us here at the shop 704-684-5618. www.ctraceworx.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 · (Edited)
Try a new belt. When a belt sensor detects belt slipping it usually goes to Limp mode and engine check light will be ON. And on computer it will say 2nd cylinder misfired.
Hey Nick, this all started with OEM belt that had been on the machine since day 1, so I replaced w/ G-Boost last weekend and still happens the exact same way. No change whatsoever. Now MEGA states that it is because I'm using a crappy new belt and not OEM, so we will see if the theory of MEGA-tivity (had to use it again, lol) is correct or not this weekend while driving around the block. Again, this situation is happening before and after brand new belt installed.

Are you running factory tune? When you pulled the plugs and cleaned the anti seaze off did you check the gap? If you are running an after market tune gap is crucial. what octane fuel are you running? Check the clutch itself, the sheaves and rollers in the secondary. If we can help any further call us here at the shop 704-684-5618. www.ctraceworx.com
Hey DB, factory tune. Nothing was ever done to the tune or engine other than adding particle separator. When I cleaned the plugs, I checked the gap and actually closed it a bit to 0.26 after reading all the posts about how the factory gap can be too wide (although since I don't have an aftermarket tune, it really should not matter). I cleaned half the anti-seize off just as MadMav stated. Yeah, they were coated all the way down.

But my main concern is that I can run it as hard as possible with the Green key, WOT for a minute straight while going through sand, whoops, jumps and everything else I could throw at it this last weekend to see if I could get it to do it with the Green key, but it never does. I literally ran it all day pushing as hard as it will go, but nothing happens, it runs perfectly fine! But, as soon as the White/Performance key goes in, I can drive in a straight line on flat ground for between 10-20 seconds going less than half throttle and less than 40 mph and I am in limp mode and check engine w/ misfire codes. That's why I don't buy it being the belt (it would slip more WOT w/ Green key than going around the block at 20mph w/ White key), or the spark plugs (if it was losing ground or spark, it should happen under more strenuous conditions and with either key), or fuel issues like injectors, pump, etc. (again, these should worsen with more strenuous driving where more fuel is being sucked up), or the clutch (if there are issues with the clutch, again, it should happen more with aggressive driving, not going around the block). I have checked the buttons, sheaves, and rollers on the clutch and all appear to be in good condition. I am likely going to do a clutch kit in the future and will replace all buttons at that time anyway.

I truly appreciate all the input, but most of the suggestions do not account for this only happening while using the Performance/White (Grey) key. Most the suggestions given should worsen with more aggressive driving. Even though the Green key only allows max 6000 rpm at WOT, launching from a dead stop and going WOT over jumps, whoops, through sand and rocks should throw a code if it were any of the above issues, even with using the Green key. Using the White key going 4000 rpm and less than 20 mph around the block, and never going WOT in the desert is a lot less strenuous on all these systems, yet it throws the code. So far I think the best suggestions have been getting and programming a new key or reflashing the ECU. Since a Maptuner X can do both, I figure that may be the best place to start, other than doing brand new plugs and coils, even though I just discounted them above.

By the way, love CTRW stuff DB. I have your gusset kit and shock tower brace, although the older versions. Thanks for reaching out!
 

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Hey Nick, this all started with OEM belt that had been on the machine since day 1, so I replaced w/ G-Boost last weekend and still happens the exact same way. No change whatsoever. Now MEGA states that it is because I'm using a crappy new belt and not OEM, so we will see if the theory of MEGA-tivity (had to use it again, lol) is correct or not this weekend while driving around the block. Again, this situation is happening before and after brand new belt installed.


Hey DB, factory tune. Nothing was ever done to the tune or engine other than adding particle separator. When I cleaned the plugs, I checked the gap and actually closed it a bit to 0.26 after reading all the posts about how the factory gap can be too wide (although since I don't have an aftermarket tune, it really should not matter). I cleaned half the anti-seize off just as MadMav stated. Yeah, they were coated all the way down.

But my main concern is that I can run it as hard as possible with the Green key, WOT for a minute straight while going through sand, whoops, jumps and everything else I could throw at it this last weekend to see if I could get it to do it with the Green key, but it never does. But, as soon as the White/Performance key goes in, I can drive in a straight line on flat ground for between 10-20 seconds and I am in limp mode and check engine w/ misfire codes. That's why I don't buy it being the belt (it would slip more WOT w/ Green key than going around the block at 20mph w/ White key), or the spark plugs (if it was losing ground or spark, it should happen under more strenuous conditions and with either key), or fuel issues like injectors, pump, etc. (again, these should worsen with more strenuous driving where more fuel is being sucked up), or the clutch (if there are issues with the clutch, again, it should happen more with aggressive driving, not going around the block). I have checked the buttons, sheaves, and rollers on the clutch and all appear to be in good condition. I am likely going to do a clutch kit in the future and will replace all buttons at that time anyway.

I truly appreciate all the input, but most of the suggestions do not account for this only happening while using the Performance/White (Grey) key. Most the suggestions given should worsen with more aggressive driving. Even though the Green key only allows max 6000 rpm at WOT, launching from a dead stop and going WOT over jumps, whoops, through sand and rocks should throw a code if it were any of the above issues. Using the White key going 4000 rpm less than 20 mph is a lot less strenuous on all these systems, yet it throws the code. So far I think the best suggestions have been getting and programming a new key or reflashing the ECU. Since a Maptuner X can do both, I figure that may be the best place to start, other than doing brand new plugs and coils, even though I just discounted them above.

By the way, love CTRW stuff DB. I have your gusset kit and shock tower brace, although the older versions. Thanks for reaching out!
Hey homie your spark plug gap needs to be 18 to 20. That is most likely your issue. With power key your throttle plate is opening all the way up and you are getting max boost max fuel and max throttle input. With the white key you are not which leads me back to the spark plug gap. Try gapping them to 20 and go from there. I would not go to key or ANY tunes until you fix this issue as you may end up adding more issues and not fixing the original one which will make trouble shooting even more of a pain in the butt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Hey homie your spark plug gap needs to be 18 to 20. That is most likely your issue. With power key your throttle plate is opening all the way up and you are getting max boost max fuel and max throttle input. With the white key you are not which leads me back to the spark plug gap. Try gapping them to 20 and go from there. I would not go to key or ANY tunes until you fix this issue as you may end up adding more issues and not fixing the original one which will make trouble shooting even more of a pain in the butt.
I will try this DB. I am just going to replace the plugs. Do you suggest OEM NGK, or going with something like Brisk Racing?
 

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I will try this DB. I am just going to replace the plugs. Do you suggest OEM NGK, or going with something like Brisk Racing?
We run the Brisk plugs but I would honestly just gap the ones you have now correctly just to absolutely make sure that is the issue.
 

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Very doubtful plug gap anywhere between .020-.032 would be a cause of this.
Also feel if it were plugs it would happen with either key however it wouldn't hurt to replace the ones put in by the factory with all the anti seize they gunk on them.....
Like mine :oops:
Spark plug Auto part Automotive ignition part Automotive engine part Fastener
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Very doubtful plug gap anywhere between .020-.032 would be a cause of this.
Also feel if it were plugs it would happen with either key however it wouldn't hurt to replace the ones put in by the factory with all the anti seize they gunk on them.....
Like mine :oops: View attachment 262069
I agree 100% HP, but I guess it couldn't hurt. Especially since I already re-gapped to .026 from factory .032. I don't think reducing to .020 is going to solve it. But hey, easy to do.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Very doubtful plug gap anywhere between .020-.032 would be a cause of this.
Also feel if it were plugs it would happen with either key however it wouldn't hurt to replace the ones put in by the factory with all the anti seize they gunk on them.....
Like mine :oops: View attachment 262069
Spark plug gap does way more than you think!! And yes they put way too much anti seaze
 

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Ok guys, I really need some help. My rig keeps going into limp mode and the check engine light comes on. Checked the codes, it is P0301, P0302. Yes, I have read through the many posts on here for this issue (misfire). I took it to the dealer, they said I needed a new belt. I called BS and here's why: IT ONLY HAPPENS WHEN I USE THE WHITE (PERFORMANCE) KEY!!!

The machine will run without issue with the Standard (Green) key, no matter how hard I hammer it. I can run it all day without any codes, any check engine light, any issues whatsoever. But as soon as I put the White key in, I can just drive it around my block once at 20 mph or less and the check engine light comes on. When out in the desert this last weekend, it will do it no matter how hard or soft I drive, within 15-20 seconds of moving.

I have checked all my grounds (which if this was the issue, it should happen with either key). I have taken out and cleaned the spark plugs (again, if this was the issue, it should happen with either key). I replaced the belt (I can understand that the Performance key allows the engine to make more power, but if it was the belt, it shouldn't happen just cruising around my block at 20 mph). Still happening!!! This is driving me crazy and my dealer doesn't know chit. Any help from you guys would be greatly appreciated! Again, to be clear, this only happens when using the Performance key in the machine, which I just can't understand.

Thanks in advance for your help!
Check waste gate valve between seats for proper adjustment
 

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A bit off topic but I understand that the "anti-seize" on the spark plugs is actually Silicone heat-sink paste (p/n: 420 987 186) which helps explain why they use so (too) much of it. I've found it hard to come by or expensive at least but Radio Shack sells pretty much the same thing for $5 for a small tube.
 

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Hey Nick, this all started with OEM belt that had been on the machine since day 1, so I replaced w/ G-Boost last weekend and still happens the exact same way. No change whatsoever. Now MEGA states that it is because I'm using a crappy new belt and not OEM, so we will see if the theory of MEGA-tivity (had to use it again, lol) is correct or not this weekend while driving around the block. Again, this situation is happening before and after brand new belt installed.


Hey DB, factory tune. Nothing was ever done to the tune or engine other than adding particle separator. When I cleaned the plugs, I checked the gap and actually closed it a bit to 0.26 after reading all the posts about how the factory gap can be too wide (although since I don't have an aftermarket tune, it really should not matter). I cleaned half the anti-seize off just as MadMav stated. Yeah, they were coated all the way down.

But my main concern is that I can run it as hard as possible with the Green key, WOT for a minute straight while going through sand, whoops, jumps and everything else I could throw at it this last weekend to see if I could get it to do it with the Green key, but it never does. I literally ran it all day pushing as hard as it will go, but nothing happens, it runs perfectly fine! But, as soon as the White/Performance key goes in, I can drive in a straight line on flat ground for between 10-20 seconds going less than half throttle and less than 40 mph and I am in limp mode and check engine w/ misfire codes. That's why I don't buy it being the belt (it would slip more WOT w/ Green key than going around the block at 20mph w/ White key), or the spark plugs (if it was losing ground or spark, it should happen under more strenuous conditions and with either key), or fuel issues like injectors, pump, etc. (again, these should worsen with more strenuous driving where more fuel is being sucked up), or the clutch (if there are issues with the clutch, again, it should happen more with aggressive driving, not going around the block). I have checked the buttons, sheaves, and rollers on the clutch and all appear to be in good condition. I am likely going to do a clutch kit in the future and will replace all buttons at that time anyway.

I truly appreciate all the input, but most of the suggestions do not account for this only happening while using the Performance/White (Grey) key. Most the suggestions given should worsen with more aggressive driving. Even though the Green key only allows max 6000 rpm at WOT, launching from a dead stop and going WOT over jumps, whoops, through sand and rocks should throw a code if it were any of the above issues, even with using the Green key. Using the White key going 4000 rpm and less than 20 mph around the block, and never going WOT in the desert is a lot less strenuous on all these systems, yet it throws the code. So far I think the best suggestions have been getting and programming a new key or reflashing the ECU. Since a Maptuner X can do both, I figure that may be the best place to start, other than doing brand new plugs and coils, even though I just discounted them above.

By the way, love CTRW stuff DB. I have your gusset kit and shock tower brace, although the older versions. Thanks for reaching out!
Im pretty sure its because of belt slippage. There are 2 reasons ofc. 1.Belt itself is bad or worn 2. is your clutch might be worn too and causing the belt to slip.
 

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Try a new belt. When a belt sensor detects belt slipping it usually goes to Limp mode and engine check light will be ON. And on computer it will say 2nd cylinder misfired.
please tell me more on this "belt sensor". Where is it? what does it sense? and what are you smoking?
 

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come on that sounds good, makes no sense but he believes it
 
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Tough crowd today...
Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 · (Edited)
Hey, I hope everyone had a good weekend. I got a chance to clean up the rig from the ride the previous weekend. Here is the latest update (all of these performed with White/Gray Performance Key):

1. Someone suggested air filter - I checked (as I do after every trip), and it is still clean as a whistle thanks to the S&B Particle Separator.
2. I tried to let it idle and see if it would throw the code. I sat for a few minutes, revving high and low, and it did not throw any codes.
3. I tried driving backwards, did it up and down the street; it did not throw any codes.
4. I replaced the belt AGAIN, this time with a new OEM belt as MEGA states this is the only belt that should be used, drove it around the block, and it threw the code (P0301 and P0302) along with check engine light. We can definitively rule out the belt at this point as neither a new G-Boost nor a new OEM belt has solved the issue.
5. I blew out the clutch (as I do after every trip), had the usual amount of dust in there. All buttons and sheaves look good, all weights moving freely, nothing rubbing or binding. I think I forgot to mention that when I changed the belt last time, I also cleaned the clutch plates with brake cleaner and scuffed with Scotch Brite pads, so I think we can also rule out the clutch at this time as well.

That's all that I did this weekend. I have ordered new plugs (Brisk Racing) and will gap them to .020 before installing.

I only want to do one thing at a time so I can narrow it down and hopefully pinpoint the issue rather than doing 10 things and having it fixed not knowing which issue it was. I will keep everyone posted again as progress is made. The plugs should be here this week, so that will be the next item.
 
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