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tuned motors need smaller plug gap
factory gap for factory tune
or have your tuner turn off misfire detection
different keys use different tunes
why is is hard for you to understand it
i say install new plugs with smaller gap
like .025 or less and use good 93 gas
a bad plug can only misfire under heavy load
 

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I think you read that wrong or I read it wrong.

I thought it did it and he put in a new belt and it still does it? Tim .
I read back through, unless I'm missing something it happen after installing the new G-Boost.

If fuel pump checks good and think it might be fuel related check the vent line for kinks.
Typically happens where it enters the frame behind the drivers seat.
 

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Chasing down a limp mode issue on the X3 is frustrating. If it were me I would put a new OEM belt in your X3 with the performance key and see if it goes away. Eliminate the easy cause first. If it is a possible fuel issue with the performance kit I would check the injectors to eliminate a bad injector I would swap the injector from cylinder 3 with cylinder 1 and see if you get a misfire in cylinder 3. If not then put the good injector into cylinder 2 and see if you get a misfire code . If you do not then you know the injectors are good. You can do the same process with the coils.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Hi everyone - thank you so much for all chiming in and giving possible solutions. I want to clarify some things first though as there seems to be confusion on when/how this started and is currently happening:
1. My engine is stock. No tune, no modifications other than S&B Particle Separator.

2. I have 780 miles on the machine. It is a 2018 XRC Turbo R. Never replaced anything except oil and filter.

3. On a trip prior to last, it would only run ok using the GREEN key. As soon as I put the WHITE key in, within 10 seconds of moving, the check engine light would come on and go into limp mode. (at the time I did not know how to check the codes)

4. I took to dealer for diagnosis. They said that it was misfire codes in cylinders 1 and 2. They said that it was the belt slipping and that I needed a new one. I called BS as it would run fine with the GREEN key and only did this with the WHITE key. They said that it was because the WHITE key allows more power to be put down, therefore causing more slippage and throwing code. I still called BS because it did not matter if I was using 10% or 100% throttle, it would still happen only using the WHITE key.

5. I installed a new G-Boost belt. I drove it around my block using the WHITE key to test belt, and the check engine light came on. Please, keep in mind that I drove VERY conservatively and not over 20 mph, and it still threw the code. That is why I am calling BS on both the belt slippage, as well as it only happening with the WHITE key due to more power being put down.

6. I took it out to the desert this past weekend and it did the same exact thing as before I swapped the belt. Again, I ran it as hard as possible with the GREEN key all day without issue, but as soon as I put the WHITE key in, within 10 seconds it was back to check engine and limp mode. And I babied it when using the WHITE key.

I understand people's opinions on which belt to use, but a new belt is a new belt. If it were truly the belt, how is it throwing a code using the WHITE key just putting around the block, but runs fine with the GREEN key all day with the throttle pinned to the floor??? I don't buy it.

So, to sum up: stock machine, no tune, new belt, check engine and limp mode ONLY WITH WHITE KEY NO MATTER HOW IT IS DRIVEN.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Chasing down a limp mode issue on the X3 is frustrating. If it were me I would put a new OEM belt in your X3 with the performance key and see if it goes away. Eliminate the easy cause first. If it is a possible fuel issue with the performance kit I would check the injectors to eliminate a bad injector I would swap the injector from cylinder 3 with cylinder 1 and see if you get a misfire in cylinder 3. If not then put the good injector into cylinder 2 and see if you get a misfire code . If you do not then you know the injectors are good. You can do the same process with the coils.
Thanks for the input SS. Is it difficult to swap injectors? I know the coils are easy.
 

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Hi everyone - thank you so much for all chiming in and giving possible solutions. I want to clarify some things first though as there seems to be confusion on when/how this started and is currently happening:
1. My engine is stock. No tune, no modifications other than S&B Particle Separator.

2. I have 780 miles on the machine. It is a 2018 XRC Turbo R. Never replaced anything except oil and filter.

3. On a trip prior to last, it would only run ok using the GREEN key. As soon as I put the WHITE key in, within 10 seconds of moving, the check engine light would come on and go into limp mode. (at the time I did not know how to check the codes)

4. I took to dealer for diagnosis. They said that it was misfire codes in cylinders 1 and 2. They said that it was the belt slipping and that I needed a new one. I called BS as it would run fine with the GREEN key and only did this with the WHITE key. They said that it was because the WHITE key allows more power to be put down, therefore causing more slippage and throwing code. I still called BS because it did not matter if I was using 10% or 100% throttle, it would still happen only using the WHITE key.

5. I installed a new G-Boost belt. I drove it around my block using the WHITE key to test belt, and the check engine light came on. Please, keep in mind that I drove VERY conservatively and not over 20 mph, and it still threw the code. That is why I am calling BS on both the belt slippage, as well as it only happening with the WHITE key due to more power being put down.

6. I took it out to the desert this past weekend and it did the same exact thing as before I swapped the belt. Again, I ran it as hard as possible with the GREEN key all day without issue, but as soon as I put the WHITE key in, within 10 seconds it was back to check engine and limp mode. And I babied it when using the WHITE key.

I understand people's opinions on which belt to use, but a new belt is a new belt. If it were truly the belt, how is it throwing a code using the WHITE key just putting around the block, but runs fine with the GREEN key all day with the throttle pinned to the floor??? I don't buy it.

So, to sum up: stock machine, no tune, new belt, check engine and limp mode ONLY WITH WHITE KEY NO MATTER HOW IT IS DRIVEN.
Go get a new performance key programmed and see if that cures the issue. It is possible you current performance key has something funky going on. You need a spare key anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
tuned motors need smaller plug gap
factory gap for factory tune
or have your tuner turn off misfire detection
different keys use different tunes
why is is hard for you to understand it
i say install new plugs with smaller gap
like .025 or less and use good 93 gas
a bad plug can only misfire under heavy load
Hi Chris, thanks for your input! Yes, you are correct, a bad plug can only misfire under heavy load, so why am I getting a misfire code when just driving around the block at 20 mph, and why only when using the white key? No tune. I am in Commifornia, so no 93 gas, only 91. That's why it's so hard for me to understand. Make sense?
 

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Thanks for the input SS. Is it difficult to swap injectors? I know the coils are easy.
Mega is able to do it pretty easily. I will let @Megadesertdiesel chime in as I have not swapped out the injectors before.
 

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Mega is able to do it pretty easily. I will let @Megadesertdiesel chime in as I have not swapped out the injectors before.
very easy to remove and check the injectors once the bed or exhaust is removed. If not its tight and you will cuss alot. Pull the fuel rail and injectors, place them in a large ziploc baggie and have some one crank the motor so you can watch the spray patterns and compare. There are plenty of shops that will clean injectors and flow test them if you are concerned. Or you could find someone with same year and hp car you have and borrow their take out injectors when they upgraded.

BUT the great MEGA says you have a belt issue, dump that aftermarket belt and go OEM and try it. NOT all belts are the same grip, width and length. Along with that thoroughly clean and scuff your clutches when you do.
 

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If I've read this correctly, no way this can be fuel related. He's said several times AS SOON AS he goes back to the performance key, the misfire and code returns. We're not talking about A WOT situation where the engine is starving for fuel. This is an electrical gremlin. The best recommendation I've seen to this point is to try a new DESS key. That should be inexpensive.
 

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Go get a new performance key programmed and see if that cures the issue. It is possible you current performance key has something funky going on. You need a spare key anyway.
If it's the same with both belts.....
I agree with this next step, first try just reprogramming the key, then a new key if still the problem,

There is the possibility of a bad clutch as well even though the sequence of events do not match.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
BUT the great MEGA says you have a belt issue, dump that aftermarket belt and go OEM and try it. NOT all belts are the same grip, width and length. Along with that thoroughly clean and scuff your clutches when you do.
Well, if the great MEGA has spoken, then it must be so! I will swap out this weekend and report back. I will only be able to do the drive around the block, but since it happened last week, I would think it would happen again if is truly not the belt. I'll keep you posted! And thanks for the injector info!
 

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I know this is frustarting for the OP, but lots of great info in this thread!

I will be very interested in the solution. I think maybe the key itself ( programming ) is a great point. Tim
 
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I'm not sure I want to question the theory of Mega-tivity, but how do you explain when he hammers on the rig with the green key, the car runs fine? Yet when he switches to the performance key, and drives 20 seconds around the block it throws codes. The chance of belt slippage is greater with the green key in this scenario. (asking for a friend. Don't rip into me. LMAO)
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
If I've read this correctly, no way this can be fuel related. He's said several times AS SOON AS he goes back to the performance key, the misfire and code returns. We're not talking about A WOT situation where the engine is starving for fuel. This is an electrical gremlin. The best recommendation I've seen to this point is to try a new DESS key. That should be inexpensive.
Hi WTTR, I think you are one of the few who have read this correctly! That's what I've been saying, is that this only happens with the Performance key, under ANY circumstances, not just WOT. I can get a new key off of Amazon for like $32, but then it needs to be programmed to my car, and that will require my idiotic dealer. But certainly worth a shot!!

Hey, does anyone know if the Evo Maptuner X can program a new key? If so, Black Friday is just around the corner and I think it would be a worthwhile investment if it can help chase down these issues and do things like program a brand new key. Same as BUDS? Thanks again everyone, I truly appreciate all the input!
 

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I'm not sure I want to question the theory of Mega-tivity, but how do you explain when he hammers on the rig with the green key, the car runs fine? Yet when he switches to the performance key, and drives 20 seconds around the block it throws codes. The chance of belt slippage is greater with the green key in this scenario. (asking for a friend. Don't rip into me. LMAO)
your own info explains it all. ECO vs SPORT mode. slow laggy engagement vs quck, fast and in a hurry bunny mode. .
 

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I use CanDoo diagnostic software. It will program keys. I would make sure I'm buying a new OEM key.
 

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If it's the same with both belts.....
I agree with this next step, first try just reprogramming the key, then a new key if still the problem,

There is the possibility of a bad clutch as well even though the sequence of events do not match.
Bad clutch would show up in Eco mode too. I would even see about getting the ECU reflashed.
 
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