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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys, I really need some help. My rig keeps going into limp mode and the check engine light comes on. Checked the codes, it is P0301, P0302. Yes, I have read through the many posts on here for this issue (misfire). I took it to the dealer, they said I needed a new belt. I called BS and here's why: IT ONLY HAPPENS WHEN I USE THE WHITE (PERFORMANCE) KEY!!!

The machine will run without issue with the Standard (Green) key, no matter how hard I hammer it. I can run it all day without any codes, any check engine light, any issues whatsoever. But as soon as I put the White key in, I can just drive it around my block once at 20 mph or less and the check engine light comes on. When out in the desert this last weekend, it will do it no matter how hard or soft I drive, within 15-20 seconds of moving.

I have checked all my grounds (which if this was the issue, it should happen with either key). I have taken out and cleaned the spark plugs (again, if this was the issue, it should happen with either key). I replaced the belt (I can understand that the Performance key allows the engine to make more power, but if it was the belt, it shouldn't happen just cruising around my block at 20 mph). Still happening!!! This is driving me crazy and my dealer doesn't know chit. Any help from you guys would be greatly appreciated! Again, to be clear, this only happens when using the Performance key in the machine, which I just can't understand.

Thanks in advance for your help!
 

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Ok guys, I really need some help. My rig keeps going into limp mode and the check engine light comes on. Checked the codes, it is P0301, P0302. Yes, I have read through the many posts on here for this issue (misfire). I took it to the dealer, they said I needed a new belt. I called BS and here's why: IT ONLY HAPPENS WHEN I USE THE WHITE (PERFORMANCE) KEY!!!

The machine will run without issue with the Standard (Green) key, no matter how hard I hammer it. I can run it all day without any codes, any check engine light, any issues whatsoever. But as soon as I put the White key in, I can just drive it around my block once at 20 mph or less and the check engine light comes on. When out in the desert this last weekend, it will do it no matter how hard or soft I drive, within 15-20 seconds of moving.

I have checked all my grounds (which if this was the issue, it should happen with either key). I have taken out and cleaned the spark plugs (again, if this was the issue, it should happen with either key). I replaced the belt (I can understand that the Performance key allows the engine to make more power, but if it was the belt, it shouldn't happen just cruising around my block at 20 mph). Still happening!!! This is driving me crazy and my dealer doesn't know chit. Any help from you guys would be greatly appreciated! Again, to be clear, this only happens when using the Performance key in the machine, which I just can't understand.

Thanks in advance for your help!
But did you try a new belt,I know it sounds crazy same thing happened to my friends car,and don't use those cheap ass gates belts

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Just try a new belt, I had a similar issue and I was skeptical at first but it solved my problem, and if it doesn’t work, you got an extra belt lol
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I guess I wasn't clear in my original post. Brand new G-Boost World's Best Belt installed prior to the ride this past Saturday. The check engine light came on when I drove it around the block with the Performance key right after installing belt. When I got to the desert, the same thing. Gas was drained and refilled just prior to this ride. Any other suggestions Mega? I did both, and it still does it. Oh, and there is no aftermarket tune on the machine. Bone stock as far as that goes.
 

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2018.5 Can Am Maverick X3 XRS
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I had a missfire last weekend, but mine wasn't a belt issue, it was bad gas or water in the gas, since I'm in Commiefornia. I didn't drain it, just idled and putted around camp and went up the wash to run it all out, down to at least 2 fuel bars. I did have to Stab it in park to get it to run, still got codes, but they were temporary. Then fill her up and run it. I don't have a tune either...

Maybe you have a semi clogged injector?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
New fuel at beginning of ride, then ran through half a tank, then refueled, still does the same thing. I just don't understand why it only happens with the Performance key only. All of the things you guys are stating should have it throw the code with either key at any time. But ONLY happens with the Performance key. How does that make any sense?

I tried to do extensive research on the belt before buying and the G-Boost appears to have rave reviews. I do have a spare OEM belt as well, but c'mon Mega, do you really think that it is the belt at this point? If it was truly the belt, a new belt, no matter who makes it, should at least let it run without throwing the code.
 

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I Agree that doesnt sound like a belt. I think the OEM is better but clearly that's irrelevant here.

I want to clarify something.

You are saying white and green key, what about the Perfomance and eco switch which also green and white ? Do you really mean the actual key?

Tim
 

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Wouldn’t the non performance key not let motor get under as heavy as load? Ie making less power using less fuel. I would look at the patch on the bottom of the fuel pump they call a filter. Did you pull fuel pump? I would start there.


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Discussion Starter #11
I Agree that doesnt sound like a belt. I think the OEM is better but clearly that's irrelevant here.

I want to clarify something.

You are saying white and green key, what about the Perfomance and eco switch which also green and white ? Do you really mean the actual key?

Tim
Hi Tim, good to hear you chime in. Yes, I mean the actual key. The switch for the Eco or Sport Mode stays in Sport Mode with either key, but the problem only happens with the White Performance Key. Good point and hope that clarifies Tim.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Wouldn’t the non performance key not let motor get under as heavy as load? Ie making less power using less fuel. I would look at the patch on the bottom of the fuel pump they call a filter. Did you pull fuel pump? I would start there.


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Hi Dizzle. I have not pulled the fuel pump or checked the filter. If I pull the filter, what should I be looking for? Just obstructions or debris? Thanks for the input.
 

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I agree with Dizzledog1, could be a clogged fuel filter or injector? Did you check the intake? To bad you couldn't check fuel rail pressure?
 

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It looks like a mesh patch on the bottom of fuel pump. There is no actual filter. Look for dirt and debris or any obstruction


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It has to be something like Dizzledog is thinking.

Not enough fuel at the higher fuel consumption levels.

The fuel pickup is a good place to start.

I also wonder about the fact the TPS would be reading higher voltage than with the other key.

The issue clearly is because of a difference in the two parameters.

So fuel consumption and TPS come to mind.

I'm no expert by any means so there may be more differences, but those are a good place to start.

Please let us know your progress.

One other off the beaten path answer is this.

I had a 2015 turbo and had a bad miss at high rpm.

I cannot remember if it was a plug, the wire or the coil but it was one if those.

I know, I am being really helpful with all the specifics 🤣

Maybe if you let us know what you try someone can help you narrow it down.

Its disgusting the dealer is no help.

Tim
 
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Discussion Starter #16
I agree with Dizzledog1, could be a clogged fuel filter or injector? Did you check the intake? To bad you couldn't check fuel rail pressure?
Hey Coleo, I did not check the intake. Do you think this would only happen with the Performance key though? That's what is killing me, is that it seems like all these things should happen with either key used, not just the Performance key. I understand that there is more fuel running through the system with the Performance vs. the Green key, but so much so that it will run perfectly fine all day long with the Green key, but will throw a code with the Performance key just from driving around the block at 20 mph?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It has to be something like Dizzledog is thinking.

Not enough fuel at the higher fuel consumption levels.

The fuel pickup is a good place to start.

I also wonder about the fact the TPS would be reading higher voltage than with the other key.

The issue clearly is because of a difference in the two parameters.

So fuel consumption and TPS come to mind.

I'm no expert by any means so there may be more differences, but those are a good place to start.

Please let us know your progress.

One other off the beaten path answer is this.

I had a 2015 turbo and had a bad miss at high rpm.

I cannot remember if it was a plug, the wire or the coil but it was one if those.

I know, I am being really helpful with all the specifics 🤣

Maybe if you let us know what you try someone can help you narrow it down.

Its disgusting the dealer is no help.

Tim
Thanks Tim. I thought the plugs and coils could be a culprit as well and will likely just replace them to eliminate that possibility. Yes, it is really awful that the dealer is of no help whatsoever. That is why I wanted to put on a new belt and will likely do the plugs and coils so they can't blame it on any of those items. I will definitely be curious to see what they say it is next if I eliminate all those items.

The TPS is not that much either, so maybe I will just replace that as well.
 

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hmm....
Happened after installing belt
Brother in-law key no misfire

Performance key misfire
More power put to the belt

Knock sensor detecting slip?

I would try a different belt
 

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hmm....
Happened after installing belt
Brother in-law key no misfire

Performance key misfire
More power put to the belt

Knock sensor detecting slip?

I would try a different belt
I think you read that wrong or I read it wrong.

I thought it did it and he put in a new belt and it still does it? Tim .
 
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