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Discussion Starter #1
I am still researching this so my question is at what mileage was anyone's clutch failure?

Meaning did it happen quickly or was it hundreds of miles later?


What I am trying to figure out is, if it is going to happen is it going to happen within the first 100 to 200 miles or did it even happen over 500 miles later?

My present theory is if it is going to happen it is going to happen very quickly and if you have not had issues with it after 500 miles or so then you won't until someone goes in there and does not do the right method of torqueing. My theory continues that if you have 500 miles or so on it and it has not happened and you need to take your primary apart for a clutch kit or whatever as longs as you do the proper torqueing method you will still be fine after.


I know some of you are tired of talking about this but please bare with me on this. There is a reason for me wanting to know and it helps the Maverick owner out in the end.

In the end I want to be able provide a new clutch for those who actually do need it and not sell one to a guy who does not. So I need this information about when it fails to determine what to do.

Todd
 

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First time right after 10 hour service. Second time 15 miles later. Secondary bolt sheared and destroyed everything. That's with the recall slippery washers.
 

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3 miles. Fml.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This is early but between the responses already plus the old thread it does appear it happened early under 500 miles.

So let ask a question, instead of running out and buying a replacement clutch, how about running it 500 miles under warranty before you go on some huge trip and if it fails let BRP replace it, then just as soon as you get it home from the dealer, you take the primary off, new or not clean the bevel portion, torque it to 95 lbs, drive it around the yard a getting on and off the throttle really hard then check torque again at 95ftlbs?

For the guys who it did not happen to and you have over 500 miles, just use this torqueing method any time you or anyone is in the clutch?


Motive??? Keep in mind Hunterworks sells stuff, will have vendor status tomorrow so what would be our motive to tell you not to buy something?

Todd
 

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Because I don't want to be waiting 2 months on my bike to get fixed under warranty. I bought the QSC/STM combo and I feel good about my purchase. Wish I didn't have to. It's not like BRP doesn't know there is an issue. This bike is supposed to be top of the food chain but the CVT system is garbage.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Because I don't want to be waiting 2 months on my bike to get fixed under warranty. I bought the QSC/STM combo and I feel good about my purchase. Wish I didn't have to. It's not like BRP doesn't know there is an issue. This bike is supposed to be top of the food chain but the CVT system is garbage.
That is a valid reason and I respect it.

Or instead of waiting just take a brand new one and do this torqueing method to it and cross your fingers, that is what I am going to do.

Todd
 

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the other thing after u figure out bolts shearing , is the belt slips under load , so we blow belts, and in the dunes there was 2 guys , had 350 miles 450 miles
 

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Discussion Starter #10
the other thing after u figure out bolts shearing , is the belt slips under load , so we blow belts, and in the dunes there was 2 guys , had 350 miles 450 miles
The reason the bolt shears is easy, the outer clutch turns, turns the bolt with it, tightens up and pow!! Putting a better bolt is not the fix in my opinion, stopping it from turning is.

Use the torqueing method given.
 

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so ur thinking u can figure out a way to lath em and stick em together or a new clutch ?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
so ur thinking u can figure out a way to lath em and stick em together or a new clutch ?
No, I'm thinking you got a bad one or good one, if you have a good one that last past 500 miles then always use the proper torqueing method and you should not have issues.
 

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I still dont understand how this torquing procedure will change anything. The reason is the outer half of the clutch tightens the bolt. So whether you torque it properly or not it will continue to tighten the bolt beyond the proper torque valve until it breaks. So how does this fix anything?
 
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Discussion Starter #14
I still dont understand how this torquing procedure will change anything. The reason is the outer half of the clutch tightens the bolt. So whether you torque it properly or not it will continue to tighten the bolt beyond the proper torque valve until it breaks. So how does this fix anything?
Let's use a stupid example, if it was only tightened hand tight it would spin tighten the bolt and break it, opposed to taking it off cleaning the mating surfaces, tightening it to 95 then ride it min and it might slip a tiny bit then torque it to 95 again without loosening it and it should not move. This is all assuming you have a good primary to begin with that has not had any problems say in the first 500 miles.
 

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so ur thinking u can figure out a way to lath em and stick em together or a new clutch ?
Putting both halves on a CNC lathe and matching the bevel angle sure seems like a step in the right direction. Cost would be minimal.
IMHO adding more torque to the bolt may delay the initial slip, but until the bevel area have full contact, its just a matter of when...
 

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Hunterworks, maybe you and canam should also figure out the early shift out and not hitting rpm problem! There's a lot of us who's mav's won't pull 7800-8000 rpms, hell I can't hit 7600 till 69-70. A bunch of are mav's when you floor it will only go to say 7450 then at 45-50 mph it shifts out and the rpms fall to 7050 and then climb slowly from there.
My mav just spent 2 weeks in the shop for this problem and they thought they had it fixed, but when I took it for a ride it wasn't, it had the same issues as when I took it there. Canam payed for a new after market secondary spring that helped with the fading when slow riding from the heat. The low rpm thing was a lot worse when the clutches were hot.
I took video this time of the speedometer and rpms and went to my dealer and they had me email it to them so they can send it to whoever needs to see it. What I don't understand is how some mav's hit 8000 rpms all the time and then there's ones like mine..

It's like riding a two stroke motocross bike that doesn't hit powerband till your starting to scream 5th gear!! What good is that!!
 

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I said this in another threat, but I sponsor the Dirtrax guys. I asked them what they knew about the clutch problems. They were just in New York with BRP testing the 2014 line-up so my timing was perfect. He promised to check with their engineers about it, and today I just got his response. Here it is below:

Hey Nick,

I talked to the guys at BRP about the issue, they were pretty open about it and said they know of the problem but it's randomly happening right now. I asked if the issue will happen again and they said that the warranty work will include the fix and it will not be a problem moving forward. They are trying to nail down what the actual problem is and where it is ultimately coming from at the factory, either someone installing/torquing something improperly or a bad supplier of something.

Anyways I hope that helps give you some assurance, while the down time is no good I'm sure you're pretty happy with the 101hp the Maverick pumps out, it feels like a cannon! The ride is incredible too, especially with those 2.5 Podium X RC's!

AJ
 

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I said this in another threat, but I sponsor the Dirtrax guys. I asked them what they knew about the clutch problems. They were just in New York with BRP testing the 2014 line-up so my timing was perfect. He promised to check with their engineers about it, and today I just got his response. Here it is below:
Let's hope that is the case. Knowing these guys the 2014 wll come out and they will forget all about us That have a 2013 model. Also I'd like to know what he's thinking about, about the fox shocks that is. The rebound is so horrible and it drives me insane! I don't even dare to jump without worrying about doing a mean dirt stab if you get my drift.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Putting both halves on a CNC lathe and matching the bevel angle sure seems like a step in the right direction. Cost would be minimal.
IMHO adding more torque to the bolt may delay the initial slip, but until the bevel area have full contact, its just a matter of when...
Actually, you don't want them to perfectly match, I know that seems wrong but you don't. If they did, you would never get them apart, if they are off too much not enough contact to keep it from turning. One would assume they are machined with some exact tolerances but I guess in a mass produced piece they may not bee.

Also, if you were to go into it and remachine them then the two halves of the clutch would be closer together which may cause a problem.

Todd
 
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