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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After months and months of spring tests and close to 2 dozen shock tunes we finally have something that we're ready to release. We've been able to smooth out the ride at speed while adding extra bottoming resistance. We've yet to bottom ours on rough trails, g outs or jumps during races and its still pleasant to drive on the trails with a group of friends. Rebound is under control now to reduce/eliminate bucking but also keep the tires on the ground in the chop which took us a while to get right but is very important. Body roll has also been minimized due to the springs so its a stable vehicle and less tipsy. Both compression adjusters and the rebound adjuster are fully functional again so making changes to different conditions are no problem.

Our shock tune completely changes out the factory valving, we make some minor changes to the shock piston while adding oil and nitrogen to have a more consistent ride that won't fade.

The shocks will come setup and adjusted for your vehicle so all you have to do is bolt them on and fine tune them with the adjusters like normal. We give each one of our customers an over view and quick lesson on the phone of what we're doing to the shocks along with ways to help dial it in. If you need a different revalve in the future there will be no cost for that, just pay shipping and we'll take care of the rest and if you're local I can tune with you in person. I'm always available by phone so if you have any questions please feel free to call our office or my cell listed below.

This setup will come with 8 new springs, 8 Fox crossover rings, 4 Fox sliders and of course our shock tune for $1250 plus shipping.

Turn around time on the shocks is one week as long as i have everything in stock ready to roll spring wise. We can generally get everything coordinated before hand to make sure it's only a 1 week turn around. We can do same day shipping if the shocks are clean and they're needed for a race or a riding trip but we have to know with plenty of lead time so we can schedule it in, otherwise it will fall in line.

Sorry for the pictures of the dirty shocks, post race pictures. :big smile:




Edit: Adding general shock tuning info.
CT Race Worx dual rate shock setup information

Factory ride height and starting points. These measurements are based off of the amount of exposed shock shaft at ride height, with all of your cargo, but no driver or passengers. You may need to slide the foam bump stop on the shaft up so you can get an accurate measurement.

Maverick XRS 2.5
Front: 5-3/8”
Rear: 5-3/8”
Maverick Base 2.0
Front: 5-3/8”
Rear: 5-3/8”
Maverick Max 2.5
Front: 6”
Rear without passengers or with small children: 6”
Rear with passengers: 6-1/4”
Maverick XDS Turbo
Front: 6-1/4”
Rear: 5-3/4”

After your first ride the new springs will break in and settle, and you will most likely need to adjust the preload to give it more ride height. If you do that the silver crossover rings that we’ve added to the shock body may need to be moved. All crossover ring measurements are based off the contact distance between the black dual rate slider that separates the two springs and the lower part of the crossover rings, which are the points of contact.

Maverick XRS 2.5
Front: 1/2-3/4”
Rear: 3/4-1”
Maverick Base 2.0
Front: 1/2-3/4”
Rear: 3/4-1”
Maverick Max 2.5
Front: 3/4-1”
Rear: 1 – 1-1/4”
Maverick XDS Turbo
Front: 3/4 – 1-1/4”
Rear: 3/4 – 1-1/4”

For the front use the smaller measurement to help control body roll, or the larger one to get a plusher ride. For the rear use the smaller measurement to control g-out and bottom out resistance or the larger number for a plusher ride. On the rear suspension there is a fine line between using the compression adjusters to battle the bottoming out or the crossover rings, sometimes it’s one or the other, and sometimes it’s both.

External shock adjustments. These will come pre-set on the shocks. Compression will be set all the way out in the softest settings. Add compression as needed.

Generic info from Fox’s Website:
-The Low Speed Compression (LSC) adjuster primarily affects compression damping during slow suspension movements such as G-outs or smooth jump landings. It also affects wheel traction and the harshness or plushness of the vehicle (note that low-speed has nothing to do with the speed of the vehicle). Choose an LSC setting that gives good body control without causing excessive harshness or loss of traction.
-The High Speed Compression (HSC) adjuster mainly affects compression damping during medium to fast suspension movements such as steep jump faces, harsh flat landings and aggressive whoops. The goal is to run as little high-speed compression damping as possible without bottoming.
-Rebound damping controls the rate at which the shock returns after it has been compressed. The proper rebound setting is a personal preference, and changes with rider weight, riding style and conditions.
A rule of thumb is that rebound should be as fast as possible without kicking back or feeling bouncy. For slower rebound, turn the rebound adjuster knob clockwise. For faster rebound, turn the rebound adjuster knob counter-clockwise.

To resolve bucking issues: Bucking/kicking can be caused by 4 main things.
-First and foremost is when the rear rebound is too fast. This causes the rear end to unload too fast which will push the rear of the machine up. We like the rear rebound to be as fast as possible without it bucking. This can be fixed by turning the rear rebound adjustment clockwise to slow the rebound down. We like to do this in 2 click intervals. If you have to turn the rebound all the way in, turn it in till you feel resistance and back it out counterclockwise 1 click. Also depending on how the crossover rings are set, this can be from the lower spring coming in too fast and the rebound valving not setup to handle that much spring resistance through the travel. If that is the case and that is the only complaint, a revalve of the rebound stack may be needed.
- Second is the rear not being able to absorb the bump or whoop. This is generally what happens when the crossover rings are set too low or when the compression is too stiff. This is a fine line when getting the suspension tuned in. You need your bottoming out resistance but you also need to absorb things you drive over. First make sure the crossover rings are in spec, second try backing out on some of the rear compression. If the crossover rings are in spec and the compression is all the way out, then a revalve of the compression stack will be needed.
-Third is when the front rebound is too fast. This is rare. When the front tires leave the ground, the front will sometimes extend too fast and yank the front of the vehicle down and make it feel like its bucking. If you ever feel a pop or jolt out of the front suspension it’s probably because the front is extending too fast and you feel it going to the end of the travel. The fix for this is to turn the front rebound clockwise to slow it down. Like the rear rebound, we want the front to be as fast as possible. Again this is rare, we have never had to turn the front rebound all the way in to fix this problem.
-Fourth is blowing through the travel and bottoming out. This is more common on the Maverick Max due to weight, and this is also why we set the ride height higher on the Max. If you go through the travel of the rear suspension too fast is will bottom out and cause the rear to pop back up or buck because the rear suspension can no longer absorb anything. If this happens increase the compression or consider lowering the crossover rings some. This mostly happens on hard hits and g-outs. If it’s a hard hit I would increase compression, if it’s a g-out and a constant problem I would lower the crossover rings, test and possibly add compression.

To resolve bottoming issues: The Maverick typically bottoms the rear much more than the front. If it’s bottoming check to make sure that your crossover rings are in spec first and not set too high, second add compression and if you are carrying more weight lower the crossover rings some. If there is more than a half inch distance between the crossover rings and the dual rate slider and the compression is turned in more than half of the way through then a revalve may be needed.

To resolve body roll issues: Body roll on any off road vehicle is a common complaint. It’s especially an issue when there is a lot of plush suspension travel. Body roll can be handled a couple different ways but it has its draw backs when trying to lessen or eliminate it. The Maverick has a stiff rear sway bar so rear shock adjustments are not going to help body roll. There are too main things that you can do. Lower the ride height. Our racers in cross country like GNCC and Torn that run the XRS 2.5 or Base 2.0 are running roughly 5” of ride height. If you do this your front crossovers need to be set at 3/8” and the rear crossovers at ½”. This makes the Maverick feel completely different. It’s much more stable but you have less ground clearance and also less up travel causing the suspension to need to be stiffened up so you don’t blow through the travel and bottom out. This works well when there is just a driver and rarely a passenger. This is not advised if you are riding in muddy conditions as the mud weight adds a lot of weight and you’ll be riding on the bumps by the end of your ride. The second way to minimize body roll is to lower the front crossover rings. Lower them an 1/8” at a time till you feel the body roll becoming tolerable but not beating you up. Ideally our front sway bar would be the easy fix for all of this.
Note: The Maverick likes to accelerate through turns and not dive into turns on the brakes like the RZR’s can. If it gets tippy you can sometimes go full throttle and the rear end will sit and power through the turn, only skilled drivers should ease into trying this.
 

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So when you say set up per vehicle, you mean you will setup per the buyers riding style with some possible fine tuning later correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ill set it up with the proper spring rates and valving according to the weight or add on's along with the riding style. For instance if you're like WVRidgeRider above that has 400+ pounds of extra parts/beer on his Mav we'll set it up with a firmer spring rate to compensate for that added weight so we don't run into to added sag or the dreaded coil bind. The fine tuning will be done with the compression and rebound adjusters (mainly compression) and also the crossover rings/dual rate stops. The spring rates won't change enough to justify a change in valving. I hope that addressed your question.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I'm going to run a special on this for the month of August and August only. $1250 will get you riding right, that's $250 off.
 

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My fronts don't perform to badly, just the rears. Would you recommend/be willing to do just the rears?
 

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My fronts don't perform to badly, just the rears. Would you recommend/be willing to do just the rears?
I Lightened the dampening on my rear shocks, and when I went out for a ride the front and felt way too stiff. So trust me, you can't do just the rear shocks. Well you can, but you'll probably be like me and then you'll need to do the front shocks.
 

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Sure wish I could get this done.
 

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You're killing me. I told my wife that unlike the Teryx I wouldn't be spending money on upgrades for the Maverick.
 

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You're killing me. I told my wife that unlike the Teryx I wouldn't be spending money on upgrades for the Maverick.
Do you make it a habit to LIE to your wife? :)
 
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I'm going to run a special on this for the month of August and August only. $1250 will get you riding right, that's $200 off.
Thanks Alex! i just dropped $1500 on clutches and then you go and post this :crazy:
 

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Do you make it a habit to LIE to your wife? :)
My biggest problem is the UPS guy doesn't ever show in my neighborhood until after I've left for work. Then I get a call from my wife saying now what did you buy? If he would just show early then I could hide the evidence. Luckily UTV Inc is located on my way to work so I can pick some stuff that way. She wouldn't know stock parts from billet anyhow!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My fronts don't perform to badly, just the rears. Would you recommend/be willing to do just the rears?
Yes this will be a service that we offer, we'll lighten up the compression a little and completely change the rebound for about $200
 

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My biggest problem is the UPS guy doesn't ever show in my neighborhood until after I've left for work. Then I get a call from my wife saying now what did you buy? If he would just show early then I could hide the evidence. Luckily UTV Inc is located on my way to work so I can pick some stuff that way. She wouldn't know stock parts from billet anyhow!
Just do what I do have stuff delivered every day and every once and a while order something for her and have it is shipped in her name, case closed lol.
 

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God im trying so hard to resist...........
 

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Where are the reviews of the people that have bought these? I'm trying to figure out if I should go this route or buy the elkas.
 

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Yes this will be a service that we offer, we'll lighten up the compression a little and completely change the rebound for about $200
I've been looking to convert my stock 2.5 foxs to a dual rate coilover, using a shorter tender coil, dual rate sliders and stop rings while retaining the stock coils. Is this something that you might be able to help me with, or to point me in the right direction?
Thanks.
 

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I've been looking to convert my stock 2.5 foxs to a dual rate coilover, using a shorter tender coil, dual rate sliders and stop rings while retaining the stock coils. Is this something that you might be able to help me with, or to point me in the right direction?
Thanks.
Give Alex at CT Racing a call. He can hook you up with a great dual rate set up .


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