In 30 Years of scaling out cars, 4 wheelers, UTV's, its hard to get all wheel weights the same, and some cases you don't won't them to be equal. And when you look at the individually wheel weights, you have to think diagonally, meaning LF = RR, LR = RF meaning if you wanted the LF lighter you would loosen up a turn or two on the LF or the RR. (ALWAYS think DIAGONALLY- What ever you do on one end effects the shock on the other end=Diagonally) meaning loosen up LF is making that wheel lighter and also making the RR lighter. Now what does that do to the other two wheels? LR & RF ? It makes them heavier. If you lighten one diagonal side you transfer that weight to the other diagonal side. Now what you have to keep in mind you just can't go screwing up or down on all your shocks, because guess what happens then, you get all your ride heights out of adjustments. If you have to make adjustments make small ones to help keep your ride heights close. (I did not put my BITE or CROSS WEIGHT on these sheets because it would confuse people, but now I'm going to tell you what mine was with me in it. I always do the final with me in it because that changes every wheel weight. IF you look at my sheet with me in it, my cross weight meaning my LR & RF total weight and divide that into the total weight of the car, comes out to 50.1 % In racing bite is referred to LR. Cross weight meaning (BITE-how hard that LR is hooking up) usually a Asphalt term in racing on a round track. So 50.1% cross is basically a neutral set up. Dirt guys usually refer to bite-(Always on the LR but they look at the LR tire to the RR tire. Look at my numbers LR =518 RR=475 in Dirt that would mean 43 pounds of Bite. SO guys and girls I'm not here to confuse you, there is no right or wrong answer on a UTV because there are left and right hand corners some muddy some dry slick. If you had to much bite on that LR tire and it hooked up extra hard on a left hand corner you could make it push or front end skate not respond then go into a right hand corner in it would respond in a loose condition meaning back end trying to spin out. (KEEP IN MIND ONE THING, YOU ARE NOT GOING TO CHANGE LEFT AND RIGHT SIDE PERCENTAGES BY CHANGING WHEEL WEIGHTS, THAT IS THE WAY THAT UNIT HAS BEEN BUILT. ALSO APPLYS TO FRONT AND REAR WEIGHTS ALSO, THAT MOTOR IS NOT GOING TO MOVE IN THAT FRAME.) So what I'm trying to do is to keep my ride heights a little higher in the back, 1/4 to 1/2. In the front 1/4 to 1/2 lower. Keep in mind when you charge into a corner I won't that front end to dive and rear end to still be up in the air. That way the weight bias is planted on the front tires and they will corner harder and faster. If you have rebound adjusters and it isn't turning good enough for you, turn the rebound adjusters in 4 or 5 clicks, that holds down the front end longer. Keep in mind there is a negative effect on that if the front end stays down to long in the corner and you get back on the gas it can create a loose effect on the rear tires, it's not letting the weight transfer back to the rear tires quick enough. There's no right or wrong numbers, but I do think you can balance this unit out so it will respond to left and right hand corners the same. I hope this is not going to confuse everybody, I still scratch my head sometimes trying to figure out what this Maverick wants.
