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2021 Maverick Sport X RC
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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Replaced my whip this weekend. It took only a few rides for me to break the Tribal.





Totally driver error on this. Cruising through a wash, doing maybe 20-30 and wasn’t paying attention to low hanging branches. And the LED’s still work just fine, just broke off the poly casing. Really more bummed about losing the flag I had on there as I didn’t notice it was gone until much, much later. Not bashing Tribal at all, their gear seems fine. Not sure there’s any light out there you can reasonably expect to withstand that kind of impact.

The Tribal was just a single-color, so thought I’d try one of those fancy wrap-around LED whips with all the options. Went with a 5150 whip this time.



Had to do a little adapting for the different wiring set-up and also ran an extra wire for the brake signal. I really like how it stops the current light scheme and turns red when you hit the brakes. Had to stuff some extra wiring and controller under the spare tire. Fortunately it’s all out of sight. Happy with it so far, just need to be more careful in the future.




 

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2021 Sport Max
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dude this build is awesome! wish you could sell your spare tire rack! We have such a small after market following compared to the X3. That rack would sell for sure!
 

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2021 Maverick Sport X RC
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78 Posts
Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Last time I went riding I was behind a guy that had chase lights and I found them to be very useful, especially in dusty conditions where visibility was limited. I looked around and cheapest ones on Amazon were $99. Figured I could just make my own. Will probably only cost me $200 and 40 hours of my labor. Seriously though, I already have a bunch of the LED button lights bought in a large pack for the turn signals, plus all of the metal. And I still have an unused switch on the SwitchPro. Shouldn’t be too bad.

Started with the base, 1/8” stainless steel of some sort.



Welded some tabs/nuts to the base for a cover to attach to. Cleaned it up and rattle-canned. Settled on a light configuration - the outer two red LED’s are going to be tied into the running lights, so always-on while the car is on. The middle lights will run off one of the Switch Pro switches, which can be programmed to strobe/flash.


Had to add extensions to a few of the LED’s in order to tie them all together.


Bent up a piece of aluminum for the cover. It’s actually a remnant piece from the roof build. Kind of fitting.


Fairly low-profile, which I’m happy about.



Running lights


Took a few tries to capture these “on” when flashing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Bought a new back-up camera set-up off Amazon after the second rear-view-mirror type died on me. This time going with a 4-pin connector style that seems fairly standard to the RV industry. Had to tear apart the car again to re-do wiring and pull the old proprietary stuff out, but if I need to replace the monitor or camera sometime in the future it should be super easy, plug and play.


Of course the bracket it comes with won’t work for where I want to put the monitor. So it is time to hack it up and weld it back together.



Installed using the factory rear-view mirror location.




New back-up camera installed.


Also whipped this up real quick from scrap material, don’t think I spent more than 15 minutes on it. Should have done it a long time ago for as useful as it is. Bracket for hanging the head-phones when not in use. Way better than throwing them on the dash and getting wires tangled up when getting in/out of the car. Cheapest ones I could find on-line were around $60, and those didn’t really have good mounting options for my set-up.


It’s funny how sometimes the littlest things can make big differences in your overall experience.
 

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2021 Sport Max
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you have some awesome ideas and even better fab skills!
 

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2021 Maverick Sport X RC
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78 Posts
Discussion Starter · #69 ·
So it looks like the guy (me) that welded the whip mount base on did a poor job of it. Appears to be lack of penetration, and didn’t help that I removed all the surface welds off to make it look pretty. Ended up breaking off during a ride. I noticed the whip dangling in my back-up camera, which made me stop as the whip should be 4 feet above the car, not 2 feet off the ground in front of the camera.



So made a new “washer” out of 3/16” material, beveled it properly and turned up the juice on the welder a bit. This one shouldn’t fail. I noticed a bit of swarf built up on the magnet on the whip bottom, so figured I’d clean that off. Ended up over-tightening the screw that holds it to the whip and broke the head of the screw off. Drilled out the broken stud and attempted to re-tap the threads. I say attempted because my tap broke off in the hole. I must have abused that tap in the past, as I put hardly any torque to it and the base is aluminum. Great. I know 5150 is supposed to have a “no questions asked” return policy, but this is clearly my fault/stupidity and figured they shouldn’t have to pay for it. So a mechanical connection it is. Drilled a hole through the mount and whip. Should fix it.



And while I was tinkering with the whip, thought I would come up with a permanent storage solution for on the rig. There’s been a couple times (including the base breaking off) where I wanted to stow the whip during the ride. Plus during down-time it’s either tossed in the passenger seat when in the toy hauler or in the back seat of the truck when on the flat bed for day-trips. I’ve seen guys use PVC pipe mounted to the cage with cap ends to hold it. With the swivel rings for the flag the pipe would have to be 3” in diameter. Would have to figure out some sort of bracket to hold it in place, too. Which led me to thinking – why not make the bracket the holder itself? A little flat strap, square tube remnant, and a little welding yields me the drivers side holder.


Some more flat strap and a piece of chain cut in half for the passenger side


Using the OEM shoulder seat belt mount location for these brackets. Still had the bolts left in place from when I switched to the harness set-up. Driver side, which is the whip base.


For the passenger side I’m utilizing the carabiner that holds the flag to the whip and clipping it to the chain link piece.


Out of the way and pretty easy to install/remove. We’ll see how well it holds up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Another thing that I’ve been thinking about is the shifter knob. Have never been really happy with what the car came with, and I know there’s a lot of sexy machined billet options out there…but nothing really appealed to me and didn’t feel like forking out the money. So figured it would be fun to try and make one. For $10 Amazon sent me four 8mm coupler nuts, my total cost into the build. I hardly do any wood work, so don’t have any good material just “laying around” like I usually do with metal. I do have a couple random scraps of 2x4’s, so went with that. The belt sander made quick work out of roughing it out. OEM knob on the left for reference.


Drilled a hole to fit the coupler nut. Also roughed up the surface of the nut and added some notches to hopefully help with epoxy adhesion.


Cut a ¼” off the end of a 8mm bolt and put a slot one side so I could screw the small piece into the bottom of the coupler nut. This kept epoxy from getting into the threads. Epoxied the coupler nut in there and then did some finish sanding for smoothness. Checked it in the car multiple times for hot spots and general feel. Lightly torched the wood to bring out grain pattern and stained/sealed it.


Not too shabby.


Pretty quick and easy project overall and still have three more coupler nuts if I get my hands on some better quality wood. Taking the rig out next week, will see how it actually performs.

 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Thank you! Someone more experienced in the nuances of "springy-ness" may say otherwise, but seems just fine to me. I am a far cry from an expert. No noticeable sag and off-road manners are good for what I do, mostly mild trail riding and crawling.
 
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