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Discussion Starter #1
I got a 2014 1000R Max about a month ago new. First real ride Saturday. When I was cleaning it up I noticed the rear Toe rod bent. This seems like a common issue. What's the best brand for an upgrade?


I didn't do anything crazy enough to bent it, somewhat disappointing.

 

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It happens ....
You need to give Alex at CT Raceworx a call.
http://ctraceworx.com

My suggestion - front and rear tie rods along with a front chassis brace kit. Makes that Max about bulletproof.
CT is a racer, has fast shipping and A+ customer service.


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Weird I thought about putting on all that stuff and probably still will but I had mine out in Oklahoma and rode 70 hard miles even bottomed out the shocks several times and didn't have an issue. Not even belt after having the lock up done to it
 

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I got a 2014 1000R Max about a month ago new. First real ride Saturday. When I was cleaning it up I noticed the rear Toe rod bent. This seems like a common issue. What's the best brand for an upgrade?


I didn't do anything crazy enough to bent it, somewhat disappointing.

You probably didn't feel it much since the suspension would have soaked most of it up...but that radius rod obviously took a hit.
 

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From my limited experience it's always been a strike to the outside of the tire. Maybe you slid sideways into a tree, rock, or hole? Basically anything that would pull/push the tire in a different direction than the vehicle is traveling would do it.

As for CT upgrade I don't see their regular non-race kit consisting of the front chassis brace, front tie rods, and rear radius rods anymore. All I see now is the race kit version. I was interested in the non-race version of that kit in manta green if it's still available? http://www.ctraceworx.com/index.php?l=product_list&c=319
 

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As for CT upgrade I don't see their regular non-race kit consisting of the front chassis brace, front tie rods, and rear radius rods anymore. All I see now is the race kit version. I was interested in the non-race version of that kit in manta green if it's still available? http://www.ctraceworx.com/index.php?l=product_list&c=319
Give Alex a call - he set you up any way you need. He has more available than is in the web site. And he answers the phone and ships fast.


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So to me appears this was a verticle hit on something, in that instance would A arm guards had protected this?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I intend to beef up the tie rod arms on both ends of the machine. I took the bent one off last night and straightened it in the press and reinstalled it. It will get me by until I can get something more substantial in there.

I am a bit of a fabritator and prefer to build stuff myself. I plan on building the bumpers etc, however there are some parts that are easier to buy.

I would like to buy the rod ends for the upgrades by themselves. I have the equipment to make the rods. I have rod ends on order and will document building the arms here.

My ongoing loader project.

 

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The tire was side loaded to the rear of the centerline of the hub. That's how those get bent. Been there wrecked that
 

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From my limited experience it's always been a strike to the outside of the tire. Maybe you slid sideways into a tree, rock, or hole? Basically anything that would pull/push the tire in a different direction than the vehicle is traveling would do it.

As for CT upgrade I don't see their regular non-race kit consisting of the front chassis brace, front tie rods, and rear radius rods anymore. All I see now is the race kit version. I was interested in the non-race version of that kit in manta green if it's still available? http://www.ctraceworx.com/index.php?l=product_list&c=319
I have them. Just give me a ring
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well I have a lathe and mill so I decided to build the front and rear tie rods. Here are the pics.

Front steering tie rods. I bought some rod ends but decided to use the stock rod end with a new aluminum bar. The bar stock is 6061 t6 1.25 diameter. Both ends of the steering and the factory rod end are 14mm 1.5. I made a bar to replace the stock and tapped both ends to match stock. The weak part of the system was the aluminum tube not the rod end.



 

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Discussion Starter #16
The front wasn't the thing that broke that started this thread but I did them anyway.

This is is what started this.


On on the rear I had to make bushings. These bushings fill out the space between a 5/8 rod end and the stock 10 and 12mm bolts. I stayed with the original bolts to avoid drilling the frame out.

Original rods.


Turned bushings from 4140 and then painted them prior to install. The two bushing halves fit with .0005 interference fit in the rod end eye for a press fit and the shoulder is .375 on each side to fit tight on the 3/4 thick rod end. I had to go back and cut a .100 x .100 relief to get the required angle out of the bushing.

Drilling stock I was going to bore the hole but it turned out that I had drill bits that were .002ish bigger than the bolts. This is a tighter clearance than the canam bushings had.




Test fit before the relief was added.




Prep to paint


Ready to install





Machined the rods with a 15 degree taper at 1“ diameter with 1.25 rod. Overall rod length is 16.375 This leaves very little threads exposed on the rod ends. It would have been ok with a little more nut clearance.

This was the best way I could figure out to align the rotors. I clamped a level to each side, marked off the a arm a distance on each side of center. I pulled a tape on the marks for each side. I then put a string front the front of the machine to the back. I centered the distance from the two levels to the machine center, then adjusted the two rods to be the same front to back. Rechecked and adjusted a dozen times and got it witin 1/32 of being equal everywhere. Hopefully that's good enough aligned.



I also installed a front gusset brace kit from UTV inc. It went on fine. I did have to slot one hole on the rear bottom cross brace to get the bolt back in.

Hope this his helps someone else.
 
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