So this is confusing... Woke up this morning to a 2 foot by 3 foot puddle of oil on the ground under my machine... Can't really find where its coming from, other than it's dripping from the rear underside of the machine, I checked engine oil and its level hasn't moved, so maybe tranny or diff? How does one check level without draining fluid? Machine is a 2021 X3 DS Turbo R, only a couple week old machine.
Rode a trail with it yesterday that i've ridden 100's of times in various machines, its a pretty open trail without really anything that requires ground clearance, so I don't know wtf would cause that...
EDIT: See post #41 in this thread. Transmission case is cracked.
Time to drill out all the rivits and investigate. I have seen cracked transmissions from bottoming out. Look at the underside of your skid plate for any evidence.
Or you could get lucky and it’s the weep hole at your water pump, dripping out coolant.
Check your trans plug. Might have got lucky and had a loose plug that drained overnight instead of when you were driving it. Always, always, always go over a new machine and check fluid levels, bolts and drain plugs before taking it out. Dealer should do this but there’s lots of stories out on when they didn’t.
I'm fairly certain I found a new hole in the factory skid plate, and by power of deduction (need to get the factory skid plate off to confirm.........) a cracked transmission housing...
Don't mind Mega. Deep down,, he's a good guy. Deep,,, Deep,,, Deep down, but it's there.
He's like viewing code in the Matrix,,,, eventually you will be able to read threads and see the advice/experience he has to share, without seeing the commentary.
That's what most of us have done. Couple pretty good threads around here on the entire process with pics/parts/tools needed etc.
A lift helps GREATLY if you have access to one,,, but it's not necessary. Not difficult,,, just a bit of a PITA. But if you replace all the rivets with riv-nuts, it will be the last time you ever have to do it. Makes oil changes mucho better too.
Well that wasn't bad to get off, I just drilled the heads with a 15/64 drill bit until they started spinning, then hammered a trim removal tool in that went on either side of the rivet, little pry and they were off. Here is the results:
WOW,,, uber unlucky! Sure didn't take much metal off to cause the leak,,, just in a really bad spot. 1" left or right and it wouldn't have done a thing.
Should be a pretty simple weld job I would think??
Ooooh,, maybe not. I believe I can see a couple of the case bolt threads yes?
Odd that a hit there would cause a leak even down to the bolt. That is outside the gasket or silicone seal area. I wonder if it has more damage elsewhere?
Good point,,,, IF Pedro put sealant on the case surface on the "inside" of the bolt as he should have.?
I just looked a the parts diagram and I didn't see a gasket listed. Guessing RTV only. If Pedro only placed it on the case surface on the outside of the bolt, then this damage would cause a leak.
Case bolt is still tight, no threads showing. The crack is right behind the case bolt. Can see it here: It is not leaking from the damage, or the seam whatsoever. I cleaned it off properly after the pics, and can see the crack now. I circled it in red below;
Does Can-Am sell just the case? Or just have it welded? Hmmm....
No parts listed for the 21's on RMATV as of yet. The gear housing assembly is listed for the 19's/20's, but there is only XXXXX for the PN and stock status shows "Not Shipping".
With all the parts shortages and as hard as it is to get a complete vehicle these days,,, these type of parts will most likely be next to impossible to find.
EDIT: OH NO I DIDN'T SEE THE THREADS... I think you are correct... That's bolt threads. Not leaking from that particular area somehow, but you are correct. **** **** ****...
Whew. Well that is good news. I have a shop in town that was recommended to me by about 10 different people when I showed them what i'd managed to do, called the guy, and he said obviously he needs to see it to be sure, but should be no problem from the pics I sent. Shop said it'll be a couple weeks before they can even look at it, but not the end of the world.
Does the trans need to be pulled to weld it? Shop said yes, but the r3dneck (why the hell is the word r-e-d-n-e-c-k censored???) in me is thinking tilt it onto its side, clean the shit out of it, and weld it. Thoughts?
I bet that not only does it need removed but the case probably needs removed I.E. tranny disassembled. Don't see how you could get a clean weld with oil contaminating it. You would also burn the silicone up and will leak.
So, PSA for everyone running stock skid plates, go spend the money on good aftermarket ones. I honestly never thought something could punch through the factory (looks like 1/4" UHMW?) skid plate and still have enough force left to do that much damage... Did some learning today. Lol.
Sorry guys my thought was poorly worded, I meant the shop said they wanted to dissemble the trans completely, so they could clean it before welding, I was wondering if thats needed, or just remove the trans from machine, tilt it on its side so there's no oil seeping into the weld area, clean it well on the outside, and weld it.
I might winch it onto its side and send the welder if it was a 2000, not a 2021 lol.
For best results and the chance of not warping the case it needs disassembled, oil burned out of the area to be welded and the case preheated. Also as mentioned welding it assembled, will for sure leak as the sealant will be dissolved. This is not a place to half ass the job , so do it right. I have had mine apart and it's not a complicated job. The hardest part is removing the trans and reinstalling it.
Might be the old shut the barn door after the horses have run off, but I ordered FUTV skid plates in 1/2". Guess I won't be pulling the trans a second time? Lol.
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