you may want to do riv nut conversion on pan to get the bolts out. Could do gusset at same time then in future a-arm removal is much easier,


you look on-line if you can just buy the correct bolt, def don't want a light grade one

 

Get the steel sleeves cut on a lathe and install 1/2" bolts along with a gusset kit.
Get a gusset kit like the one from TMW, all the a arm bushings shoulder up to gusset instead of paper thin frame metal.
Makes for a nice tight front end.
If you're ambitious, throw some 1/2" bolts in the rack while its apart.

 

What sleeves? The ones in the bushing of arm, I have CT race works gusset kit already s d had it when I clipped stump. I replaced upper and lower arms and my tire is still cambered out at the top just slightly. And when i looked at lower rear bolts the one looks like it's slightly bent. Think of just useing a plate to tie them together where factory one is on the head of bolts. But have mine with both bolts passing through. Does the factory plate that's around the head of bolts. Is that welded to frame or bolted?

 

I removed the plate that retains the lower rear a-arm bolts by drilling out the 2 rivets in order to remove each bolt and retaining plate. It is the only way to remove the bolts unless someone has found a better method. I reinforced the lower a-arms with the new plates from TMW as shown in my photos.

 

Sweet so the plate that retains the bolts is held in by the 2 rivet?

 

Yes. Just drill out the 2 rivets and the thin plate can be removed. The bolts can be removed after you remove the plate of the lower a-arm. I had 3/8" UHMW custom cut to close the small area of the skid plate that I dremeled out.

 

The steel sleeves that the a arm bolt goes through.
The 12mm bolt is sloppy.

 

The TMW brace is the best one I have used.
Covers all the holes.
The pics I put up with the 1/2" bolts use a different brand brace. I had to weld tabs on the upper rear a arm mount holes, as the frame was wallowed badly at 2800 miles.
That's the only hole that brand brace kit didn't catch.
Had to pull the rack to weld in the tabs.
Noticed excessive positive camber on pass side, tore it down, found the issue.

 

Yea that's what I'm hoping will fix my camber. Ive had the CT gusset kit since 100 miles. And had no issues til I hit the stump. Now I got the camber issue. Hoping this fixes it.

 

Bringing this back. Pulled out the bolts last night. Both were straight, and took measurements and all was equal. I'm hoping it's just a balljoint..... Could of the aluminum steering knuckle bent?

 

So I believe it's a combination of bad ball joint and wallowed out knuckle. You see how there's the line in where the ball joint stud is. I would think thats a sign of ball joint stud moving around in knuckle.

 

Sandhoon did you figure this out? I have almost an identical issue. I have the CT gusset and clipped a tree stump bending both my upper and lower A arms. It bent to where the wheel was extremely cambered out. With new a arms and new ball joints I have some camber, but now it's slightly the opposite direction and cambered in at the top. I'm thinking either bad A arm bushings or possibly a damaged knuckle. Did you have any luck?

 

To get those 2 lower a-arm bolts out just notch out the skid plate a little...doesn't take much.

 

PRob a bent knuckle

 

Pretty sure these are cast aluminum and sheer and break vs bend. They may bend a hair I suppose.