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2019 Can Am Maverick X3 Max X RS Turbo R
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey All! Picked up a 2019 Can Am Maverick X3 Max X RS Turbo R recently that was rolled. You know, because I needed another project...and it's Covid, and there's dirt to disrupt!

Knowing absolutely nothing about SxS, I immediately only replaced the visually obvious damaged items. Rear Left CV Axle, Rear right lower control arm, Radiator, and Fan. Hit the start button and it ran like a champ - for about 5 minutes. Went into limp mode and just shut off. I can start it and run it again. Sometimes it goes back into limp mode. Mostly, it doesn't go anywhere really. 4500 to 5000 RPM's and I'm moving at 25MPH top speed. Check engine light on of course. I have cockpit videos of it running in this state. I can post them up on Youtube if that helps.

Some guidance here would be highly appreciated. What are some areas I should look at? What are potential causes I can maybe look at myself?

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Is your seatbelt on or at least latched as it has a safety?


you change oil and fuel? spark plugs? did you pull the check engine codes? How did you burb the air on the radiator?
 

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2019 Can Am Maverick X3 Max X RS Turbo R
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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, seat belt on.

Oil Change: No, not yet.
Fuel: I added about 7 gallons of fresh 91 octane to the old 3 gallons that was in the tank.
Spark Plugs: No.
Engine Codes: No (Again, I'm new, butI'll figure out how to pull the codes).
Radiator: No burping. I never did drain it. Simply hooked up the new one and filled up the reservoir.

Question: The cover for the reservoir and air filter is missing. This cannot affect anything can it? Too much air (if there is such a thing).

Putting it on a battery charger/maintainer tonight to see if that helps. I hear a weak battery can cause similar issue.

Any thoughts on a belt?
 

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first thing is to get the codes its throwing to point you in a direction, get a hold of a maintenance manual.

with a rolled car you didn't own, i would change EVERY fluid, bleed the coolant system well, change plugs and completely drain the fuel system. Then you have to search for any pinched wires from the rollover smashed areas.

YES a belt could throw codes, buy a couple OEM belts and use the current one as a spare, you will need belts in the future.

Once you get it all running you will need to check the alignment and suspension for bent parts.

After ALL of that you get to submerge yourself in this forum for all of the needed upgrades to keep your car alive in the wild. Good luck
 

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Could be a pinch or TINY bare spot on the wiring harness - that’ll cause it to throw codes, usually ones that don’t make any sense, and make it go into limp mode.

It’ll cause it to run for just a few seconds, a couple minutes, or not at all before going into limp mode or shutting off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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2019 Can Am Maverick X3 Max X RS Turbo R
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Discussion Starter #6
Looked into a potential stored code tonight and nothing. States: "No Fault Code"

Installed a cable connector for a battery maintainer/charger and let it charge overnight last night.

Decided to try to run it today with the hopes that it may have been a weak battery issue. Runs strong and hard - right up until you punch it to 6,000RPM then it just falls flat on it's face, goes into Limp Mode, and slowly shuts off (engine, electrical, everything). Makes sort of a screaming/whistling sound before dying. I feel it may be an air or turbo related issue.

Restart it a few seconds later and I can drive for what it seems all as long as I keep it under 5000RPMS. When I do run it around 4500 - 5000RPM after the Limp Mode episode, I can't get past 25MPH.

I took brief look at pinched or damaged wires but didn't see anything obvious. I can dig deeper.
 

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check all of your turbo inlet hoses to and from inter cooler. Another issues when you roll is a broken nipple on the boost pressure solenoid. Check the little hoses from that to the intake and turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Look what I found here!

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Megadesert: If this is the cause of my troubles, I owe you a 6 pack of your choice!

Now why the heck would this break during a roll over? I can't see this assembly 'hitting' anything. Anyone every change one? Pretty straightforward or are there any tips I should take into consideration?
 

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Look what I found here!

View attachment 262329

View attachment 262330

Megadesert: If this is the cause of my troubles, I owe you a 6 pack of your choice!

Now why the heck would this break during a roll over? I can't see this assembly 'hitting' anything. Anyone every change one? Pretty straightforward or are there any tips I should take into consideration?
That can easily do it... broken off the wastegate actuator solenoid, poor or non functioning solenoid will throw misfire/limp..... Ask me how know,:rolleyes: now there could be other issues as well.
I
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So, I’m out in the country and everything closes at 5PM and of course closed on Sunday’s. I’ll be waiting a week to receive the new turbo boost solenoid but I don’t want my fun delayed. Decided to MacGuyver this thing last night and gooped on some Liquid Nails (all I had on hand) to the broken plastic nipple for some temporary play and testing.

It worked! This effing thing is fun. Ran it over 5,000 and 6,000+ RPM for about 20 minutes. Never stalled and never went into limp mode. Check engine light is still on. Hoping with the new solenoid, the check engine light clears itself. Is that possible? Of course there may be other reasons that it’s on in the first place. Anything else I should look out for?

My toddler loves it (just putting around). Looking at picking up a jumper seat for him to sit in the middle. Any preference on which one?
 

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any one not using a code reader/code clearing tool is working with one hand tied ...candoo is a good tool but you need a computer to use it so when out riding its a bitch to use. some ecu flashing tools also can clear codes and save a weekend ride
 
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I have a used, DynoJet, PVCX (PV-25001) from my '19 X3RS, for sale. You can read and reset codes as well as add tunes to your car. PM me if interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I posed a question previously regarding the air filter and coolant reservoir cover - whether not having one affected performance. As I am waiting on parts, I decided to somewhat protect the air inlet during my daily rides. No more check engine light. Coincidence or actual results here?

See my 30 second temporary fix pictured below. I'd be happy to post a full write up of the trick, custom fabricated, and professionally installed mesh household screen. The key is what angle you tear the painters tape.

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*I have a toddler and busy AF with work/life. Generally, I have about 10 minutes at a shot to try and test random temporary fixes things like this and the Liquid Nails on the plastic nipple. All correct parts are on order and will be installed. The job will be completed correctly. Simply buying myself some fun time and using these exercises to learn a bit more about this machine.

Dezperado - Thanks for the offer. Please PM me a price.

any one not using a code reader/code clearing tool is working with one hand tied ...candoo is a good tool but you need a computer to use it so when out riding its a bitch to use. some ecu flashing tools also can clear codes and save a weekend ride
Agreed. I'll pick something up soon. We're an Apple family. What reader or flash tool works best with a Mac (if any)?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It seems my parts are being delivered by an old blind donkey. I'm sure they will arrive eventually. Not stopping me from enjoying my rides though.

You know what's not stropping? The Maverick! All of a sudden, I have very 'mushy' brakes. Pushing the pedal all the way down and it's barely stopping/slowing. Problem just showed up. What and where should I look?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
you must have just noticed it. The X3 brakes have a mushy feel and generally suck ass. BUT they do stop you eventually.
I do agree that in the beginning, they sucked. I noticed. Now they’re downright dangerous. Something definitely wrong here.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I let the machine rest for a full 24hrs in a warm and cozy garage. Hoping the Can Am Elves would show up and fix my brakes while I was sleeping. No such luck. Just took it out for a ride and nothing! Have to mash the brake pedal through the floor for it to barely grab. What gives? Any adjustments that may have gone out of wack?

Megadesertdiesel - You won yourself a 6 pack of your choice. The turbo boost solenoid found broken was the culprit of my main issues. No more check engine light and the machine hauls the mail! Thank you. I'll PM you.
 

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With my limited time as most days, this is what I decided to do: Went for a 30 minute ride (without brakes essentially) and spent 30 seconds looking into the no brakes situation. I have priorities. They may be mixed up, but I do have them.

Didn't see anything obviously leaking just yet, but the machine is chock full of dirt and mud. Tough to see, so I'll have to wash it first. I did open up the brake fluid reservoirs and found the one on the left empty and the one on the right full. Filling it tomorrow hopefully and testing again.
 
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