[LBR]

Pretty sure the .020 plug gap recommendation is an EVO specific tuning thing. Stock is still .030 and When I talked to Whalen on the phone he doesnt necessarily recommend going as low as .020. He recommended .025-.030 over the phone to me.

Thanx! I edited my post above yours to suggest gap ranges from ~.020 for tunes to ~.030 for stock...owners discretion.

 

[jknapier]

The “white paste” found on the outside of the plug is not a thermal paste. It is dielectric compound. When replacing the coil pack back on top of the plug it is advisable to add a little as it will keep the rubber boot from sticking to the ceramic insulator and damaging it when you remove them again. It also aids in keeping the spring at the end of the coil pack from moving around and causing potential misfires. This has been a service suggestion since the beginning of distributorless ignition systems first came out in the mid 1990’s.

As trump would say WRONG lol....
Rotax Minute - Spark Plug Thermal Paste Application - YouTube

Again this was an aircraft thing so WE don't need it.

 

[Cascade Crush]

My plugs all broke free with less than 10 inch pounds and look to have carbon on the threads from leaking. All three have .031" of gap. The crush washers look uncrushed.

 

[2020RR]

How many miles on them?

 

[Cascade Crush]

A little under 1500. 2020 RR.

 

[2020RR]

hmmmm wonder why they looks so much different than mine? What brand of fuel do you use? any additives? can you show a better pic down inside/top of the plugs?

 

[Cascade Crush]

91 octane ethanol free since day one. Stock tune and stock exhaust. There's no goo of any kind on them; like the day I bought the machine, BRP went in dry.

The pictures are darker than real life.

 

[Cage4Aged]

Interesting that not a single plug picture posted here so far shows any evidence of gap "growth"...🤔

 

[jknapier]

91 octane ethanol free since day one. Stock tune and stock exhaust. There's no goo of any kind on them; like the day I bought the machine, BRP went in dry.

The pictures are darker than real life.

View attachment 274939
View attachment 274938

Sad such a low torque that the crush washer didn't crush. I guess better than 3 stripped head lol....
I bet if the coils didn't bolt on top on them, they would have backed out and shot out the last few threads.

 

[Cascade Crush]

Sad such a low torque that the crush washer didn't crush. I guess better than 3 stripped head lol....
I bet if the coils didn't bolt on top on them, they would have backed out and shot out the last few threads.

You're probably right. The new plugs felt like they cut three threads worth of carbon.

 

[Cascade Crush]

Interesting that not a single plug picture posted here so far shows any evidence of gap "growth"...🤔

I expected to see three pristine spark plugs with less than 1500 miles. What I found was three pristine hand tight plugs. With that said, I can't think of a single boosted application I'd run .031" plug gap. The car immediately idles better, top end feels the same.

 

[Cage4Aged]

I, too, would not expect "wear" with so few miles. I'm just pointing out that I still haven't seen any of the "well known/documented" gap growth on iridium plugs, that's all.

Just curious, is there a reason you pulled them after only 1500 miles?

 

[Cascade Crush]

I, too, would not expect "wear" with so few miles. I'm just pointing out that I still haven't seen any of the "well known/documented" gap growth on iridium plugs, that's all.

Just curious, is there a reason you pulled them after only 1500 miles?

The plugs are often cited by dealers as a source of problems. I personally think that is BS but changing plugs frequently in these cars is a thing. My car has had a rough idle for the last few months, not horrible, just not smooth. I'm getting ready to do all of the maintenance and figured I would do the plugs at the same time and cross it off the list. I'm glad I did since members here with the same year as me are reporting loose plugs too. I think the plugs I took out are still good but would need to be replaced in the spring when I do a tune.

 

[Sandman_73]

I, too, would not expect "wear" with so few miles. I'm just pointing out that I still haven't seen any of the "well known/documented" gap growth on iridium plugs, that's all.

Just curious, is there a reason you pulled them after only 1500 miles?

Use the search function.. You cant expext to know what many us know with a measly 40 post count

If THAT doesnt work for you then GTS…. “Irradium plugs in high boost” and you will find pages upon pages of import forums (Honda, Toyota, etc) discussing the phenomenon.

FWIW all my plugs were approaching .035 with 3500mi on Whalen tune. But Im sure you want pics?

 

[Cage4Aged]

Use the search function.. You cant expext to know what many us know with a measly 40 post count

Wow, did you really just go there? So I guess your 4,000 posts vs my 40 posts on THIS forum makes me an idiot?

If THAT doesnt work for you then GTS…. “Irradium plugs in high boost” and you will find pages upon pages of import forums (Honda, Toyota, etc) discussing the phenomenon.

FWIW all my plugs were approaching .035 with 3500mi on Whalen tune. But Im sure you want pics?

Chill, dude. Considering the fact that your suggestion of "Irradium (Iridium) plugs in high boost” has returned pages and pages from import forums...but not a single one of the dozen or so that I read has mentioned plug gap growth of Iridium plugs...then yes, I guess I would like to see pics.

I kinda thought, as someone mentioned above, that these forums were for learning. That's exactly what I'm attempting to do. Yes, there is plenty of discussions online about spark plug performance re: Iridium vs Platinum vs Copper on those import forums, as well as about gap size for boosted engines. But nothing (that I've found) re: gap growth/wear of Iridium plugs, and quite frankly I'm tired of scouring the internet to prove you right on that claim. So I guess I will GTS, and drop the subject.

 

[JOP]

anyway...even if the Brisk plugs are not better. they are less expensive than the OEM. so why bother to buy the OEM anyway..

 

[2020RR]

The plugs are often cited by dealers as a source of problems. I personally think that is BS but changing plugs frequently in these cars is a thing. My car has had a rough idle for the last few months, not horrible, just not smooth. I'm getting ready to do all of the maintenance and figured I would do the plugs at the same time and cross it off the list. I'm glad I did since members here with the same year as me are reporting loose plugs too. I think the plugs I took out are still good but would need to be replaced in the spring when I do a tune.

I know what you're saying, same issue would kind stumble and clean up.. new plugs solved that ,car runs better, OEM plugs looked fine.

 

[Cage4Aged]

anyway...even if the Brisk plugs are not better. they are less expensive than the OEM. so why bother to buy the OEM anyway..

Plug life, perhaps?

Oh, and with just a bit of searching, I found OEM plugs for just $14 each.

 

[rcr1978]

I get the NGK 92222 LMAR9G plugs, way better than the Brisk junk and way cheaper. They are just standard plugs no iridium ect. I've bought them from the NGK.com, sport bike track gear ect from $6.50-7.50 a plug. I get at least 6 so the shipping doesn't add up everytime. Only downside is they are threaded terminals without the threaded part so you will need to find those. A pack of the terminals can be found on Scamazon, ebay, scootershops ect.

google NGK Spark Plug LMAR9G Kawasaki Ninja 400 18-21

 

[JOP]

Plug life, perhaps?

Oh, and with just a bit of searching, I found OEM plugs for just $14 each.

yeah..im in canada so we pay more than this. my dealer sells the oem 26$ ea.