Like the title says, let’s talk about spark plugs. Now that my car has roughly 6500 miles on it I’ve decided to take the time and replace the plugs. While I could go with the NGK Iridium type, I have been researching the Brisk plugs and am seriously considering them. With that said, has anyone installed them and are there any longer-term reviews? EVO and Whalen guys feel free to chime in since you seem to have started the trend.
Let’s talk about spark plugs
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JDBPFLYER
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Which part # you running? just curious.
Every UTV retailer selling them as X3 replacements that I can find is selling CR10YS 1715.
"Better" conductor? Only slightly. Is there a measurable difference due to using silver vs copper in that 3" length? Doubtful. "Delay"? Electricity travels through wire at around 1,860 miles per second. Using copper vs silver over that 3" length introduces no delay. But read on, I was wrong...sorta.
OK, I stand corrected; there are indeed independent dyno tests showing an increase in HP...about 1-4%. Certainly nothing that you will actually "feel" from the driver's seat of a 150hp SxS.
So for me it would come down to a few questions. Will they last and what is the cost difference? Realistically, the relatively small power increase may or may not be worth the shorter life/higher cost.
BTW, J1mb0; regarding your "newfangled innerweb thingamajig" comment: While I may be older than you, I'm certainly no old fogey, and yes, I know how to use that "newfangled thingamajig" (is that what I'm on right now?
). I'm also an electrical engineer who has been riding for more than 50 years. In fact, it's probably safe to say that I was racing professionally before you were born (late 70s/early 80s).
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Even after I started this thread I ended up just replacing them with the OEM plug. I was having some hesitation issues that felt like spark issues. Once I replaced the plugs the car ran just lie it’s old self again. I did inspect them carefully and the #2 cylinder gap was larger than all the rest. I’m assuming, since the problem was corrected after the plugs were changed that the plug was the culprit.
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Better is better, correct? Silver is superior to just about any other metal or alloys, its has lower resistance and better thermal conductivity. If silver is not better than copper/iridium/platinum etc, then why are there 1-5% power gains coming from? I know I didn't sprinkle any magic pixie dust in the holes when i replaced them.. ?? I also know i got a smoother idle and a little better throttle response.
Electricity ALWAYS takes the path of least resistance. If you have a plug that has carbon build up on it or a slightly "rich spot" in the tune, that little bit of reduced resistance with silver could be the difference between a spark jumping the gap (as intended) or the spark leaking to ground (fouled) via carbon tracks. You being an electrical engineer would also know that the gap effects when the plug actually fires (spark jumps), which in turn would effect the actual timing. We are talking Milli-seconds here, though.
I am not sure about you or others, but if I can get an extra 1-5% HP increase with a $15.00 ea spark plug, considering the OEM plus are $17.49 ea, I will take the BRISK (or silver) all day long... Silver also has better properties to resist oxidation and is VERY hardy.
You cant feel 4% increase/decrease in power (approx 10hp)?? Ever taken you car or motorcycle (non turbo) up in elevation? did you notice any difference? There is about a 3% decrease in power output per 1000ft of elevation increase..
Silver is the best conductor (resistance and heat), copper would be next.. However copper plugs do not last very long.. that is why manufactures starting making iridium plugs/platinum and other "exotic" plugs (so vehicles could go 100k miles on OEM plugs), however NONE are as efficient as silver.. The cost $15-17 ea.. the OEM Canam plugs are $17.49 ea... Silver will last longer and provide and better more consistent spark, period.
By the way.. My stock plugs look "new" when removed around 1500 or so miles. So its not like my old plugs were fouled or had excessive gap.
Not trying to start a pissing match here, just thought I would share my .02 based upon research and actual use
BTW, J1mb0; regarding your "newfangled innerweb thingamajig" comment: While I may be older than you, I'm certainly no old fogey, and yes, I know how to use that "newfangled thingamajig" (is that what I'm on right now?
Sorry if I offended you with the innerweb comment Caged4Aged. I was trying to keep things humorous and point out that it’s a good idea to do some quick research before making bold accusations against a Manufacturer. Brisk obviously makes an outstanding product as they are used by many in the racing and tuning communities.BTW, J1mb0; regarding your "newfangled innerweb thingamajig" comment: While I may be older than you, I'm certainly no old fogey, and yes, I know how to use that "newfangled thingamajig" (is that what I'm on right now?
2020R,
All of these "problems" you bring up are extremely rare at best; carbon tracks, leaking to ground, timing problems, etc. I prefer to live in the real world. A well maintained engine in this day and age shouldn't experience any of those ills. And while silver lasts longer than copper, iridium lasts longer than silver (I haven't bought standard copper electrode spark plugs in at least 3 decades, has anyone?). Shopping around,, there's little difference in price, but there's likely a significant difference in life. And I can pretty much guarantee that in a like-for-like comparison, 99% of people will not be able to tell the difference between 195hp and 200hp. Trying to eke out that 0.1 sec at the drag strip? Ok. Otherwise, doubtful.
Not trying to change anyone's mind here, just make sure that you're comparing apples to apples. Spend your money on what you want to spend it on; your choice. I'm pretty sure that the Hooker Headers sticker I put on my Chevelle back in the 80s gave me a few extra mph as well, as but since my dad worked for Hooker at the time I may have been a bit biased.
All of these "problems" you bring up are extremely rare at best; carbon tracks, leaking to ground, timing problems, etc. I prefer to live in the real world. A well maintained engine in this day and age shouldn't experience any of those ills. And while silver lasts longer than copper, iridium lasts longer than silver (I haven't bought standard copper electrode spark plugs in at least 3 decades, has anyone?). Shopping around,, there's little difference in price, but there's likely a significant difference in life. And I can pretty much guarantee that in a like-for-like comparison, 99% of people will not be able to tell the difference between 195hp and 200hp. Trying to eke out that 0.1 sec at the drag strip? Ok. Otherwise, doubtful.
Not trying to change anyone's mind here, just make sure that you're comparing apples to apples. Spend your money on what you want to spend it on; your choice. I'm pretty sure that the Hooker Headers sticker I put on my Chevelle back in the 80s gave me a few extra mph as well, as but since my dad worked for Hooker at the time I may have been a bit biased.
No problem. And you are right, research is always called for, especially in this day and age. And the fact that the Brisk plugs are the same price or even cheaper than the OEM puts a whole new spin on things as well. I still wonder about the longevity however, vs iridiums. For someone who's competing in organized racing, a shorter life is likely worth the slight performance increase and the higher cost (over time). For the average Joe, probably not so much.
I think the primary benefit of the Brisk plugs is they are easily gapped.
And the gap on a Brisk doesnt GROW over time like the stock plugs.
I've never had a problem gapping any plugs, including NGK Iridiums, although they typically come already gapped for the application (and the gap on Iridiums typically don't grow either).
Lol....your comment made me snicker when I read it...[emoji4]... it's refreshing to have humorous innuendos lightening-up these heavy discussions that some wish to turn into soap-box lectures.
Heck... I'm one up on you, J1mb0...at least I didn't get called-out by some PETA lover with my "waking up a sleeping dinosaur" comment (yet).....[emoji23][emoji23][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787].
PETA would have an easier time of things if animals weren't made out of meat! (yum!)Heck... I'm one up on you, J1mb0...at least I didn't get called-out by some PETA lover with my "waking up a sleeping dinosaur" comment (yet).....![Image]()
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So, do the X3's come stock with copper or iridium plugs?
I'm not an expert, or even well informed, on this subject. All I can say is that gap seems to be an issue with the OEM spark plugs above stock boost levels with performance tuning companies. When looking to purchase replacement plugs I don't see OEM plugs recommended in the aftermarket. I don't know if that is due to performance, profitability, or just ease of access. All I can say is that the Brisk plugs come recommended by Whalen Speed, EVO, and most everyone else. There is also a consensus among end users they work as advertised. To be fair, I don't see anything that would suggest there is HP to be gained by using Brisk over new OEM for a stock tune application.
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OEM NGK's plugs are fine wire iridium plugsPETA would have an easier time of things if animals weren't made out of meat! (yum!)
So, do the X3's come stock with copper or iridium plugs?
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Do you actually have any experience with the specific plugs we are discussing? if so, please share your thoughts/experiences.2020R,
All of these "problems" you bring up are extremely rare at best; carbon tracks, leaking to ground, timing problems, etc. I prefer to live in the real world. A well maintained engine in this day and age shouldn't experience any of those ills. And while silver lasts longer than copper, iridium lasts longer than silver (I haven't bought standard copper electrode spark plugs in at least 3 decades, has anyone?). Shopping around,, there's little difference in price, but there's likely a significant difference in life. And I can pretty much guarantee that in a like-for-like comparison, 99% of people will not be able to tell the difference between 195hp and 200hp. Trying to eke out that 0.1 sec at the drag strip? Ok. Otherwise, doubtful.
Not trying to change anyone's mind here, just make sure that you're comparing apples to apples. Spend your money on what you want to spend it on; your choice. I'm pretty sure that the Hooker Headers sticker I put on my Chevelle back in the 80s gave me a few extra mph as well, as but since my dad worked for Hooker at the time I may have been a bit biased.
No problem. And you are right, research is always called for, especially in this day and age. And the fact that the Brisk plugs are the same price or even cheaper than the OEM puts a whole new spin on things as well. I still wonder about the longevity however, vs iridiums. For someone who's competing in organized racing, a shorter life is likely worth the slight performance increase and the higher cost (over time). For the average Joe, probably not so much.
I know I am hear to learn and share some of the knowledge i have amassed over my lifetime, isn't that what forums like this are for? to learn from others?
Must not be "extremely rare".. that is why you pick up power with just a plug swap.. real world dyno testing shows you could be mistaken. You think with all the aftermarket tuners out there, that all of their tunes are "perfect" as far as AFR/Timing/Boost go? I surely don't.
I agree iridium plugs "might" last a bit longer (maybe not) but is anyone really trying to go 50k miles on OEM plugs? for the same money or less, you can get a better performing plug! Silver electorlde plugs are "BETTER" for just about any engine . We already know the OEM plugs don't last very long (gap widens). There is a reason just about all the highend tuners recommend them.. EVP, Packard, Whalen etc. ..
Power is power and motors/tuning is very dynamic, AFR's, Timing, Boost all have an effect of how and when the mixture is burned..
just to be clear, I dont work for or have any affiliation with Brisk, NGK or Silver... although i did stay holiday inn last night... lol stepping down off my "soap box" for now.
Does the gap on the OEM plugs widen? From what to what? Over what period of time/mileage? Brisk recommends a gap of .020 for their plugs, but if you are comparing that to a stock plug that shows a gap of .30 when you pull it out, that's because the OEM plugs are supposed to be gapped at .031 already, not because they have widened. Personally, I've never seen any evidence of iridium plugs' gap wearing/widening unless they are extremely old/high mileage or in an engine with some problems unrelated to the spark plugs. Is there something about our CanAm motors that destroys the electrode on even iridium plugs? Or is that only an issue on higher tunes/boost levels?
While a good conductor, silver has a very low melting point, lower than any other spark plug material; copper, platinum, iridium... And while you are correct that I have no experience with the Brisk plugs, I do have significant experience with others over the course of 50+ years and in multiple types of vehicles; street, offroad, 2, 3, 4 wheels, stock and built, recreational and competition. When it comes to forced induction, however, that is indeed new to me so you are correct in that I have no experience with them, nor with higher than stock boost levels.
In any case, this has been a very enlightening conversation.
While a good conductor, silver has a very low melting point, lower than any other spark plug material; copper, platinum, iridium... And while you are correct that I have no experience with the Brisk plugs, I do have significant experience with others over the course of 50+ years and in multiple types of vehicles; street, offroad, 2, 3, 4 wheels, stock and built, recreational and competition. When it comes to forced induction, however, that is indeed new to me so you are correct in that I have no experience with them, nor with higher than stock boost levels.
In any case, this has been a very enlightening conversation.
FAKE news…. Its well documented stock irradium plug gaps grow with increased boost levels.
I wonder whether the electrode wears or the ground strap deflects?
Interesting. Just curious, how much growth has been seen/documented?
Good question. I'd love to see some pics of these worn out OEM plugs.
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