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During a race over the weekend I went into limp mode 4 times from getting to hot and finally broke a belt ending my day. I had the same symptoms as you but I haven't had time to look at mine after Saturday and figure out what the problem is. There's a couple cooling mods you can do to help out the cooling system as well with the addition of some Evans.
Ill post up what I find when I get mine apart.
 

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During a race over the weekend I went into limp mode 4 times from getting to hot and finally broke a belt ending my day. I had the same symptoms as you but I haven't had time to look at mine after Saturday and figure out what the problem is. There's a couple cooling mods you can do to help out the cooling system as well with the addition of some Evans.
Ill post up what I find when I get mine apart.
I'm thinking about removing the bypass and thermostat. Living down here in Texas, it couldn't hurt. I've heard Evans does pretty good. A few guys I know down here run it on their race bikes, and they've went without overheating while their radiator was completely caked with mud.
 

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That's what I was told about the Evans as well. I'm not going to remove the thermostat, I'm just going to add some more bleed to it. I think that bypass is a pretty big problem though.
 

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You guys can also add the high flow impeller. All over ebay for $199
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
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Cylinder pressure gauge will be here tomarrow to be 100% and see which cylinder but according to one of the other members method id says its blown. I fill it up and it gets hot fast. before it boils it looks like you put a bicycle tube with a pin hole down in water. Steady stream of small bubbles.
This is not looking good. This thing is two months old. I spend a month build cage and lower everything so it didnt fill like i was about to roll over all the time. Now getting to ride it and its down . Plus looks like its going to cost $1500 to bring clutch up to par.
 

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I have used the Evans coolant in my KTMs and turbo Hayabusa with good results. It won't make your machine run any cooler, it just won't let it boil over. The stuff doesn't boil till like 200+ degrees. That is good because the biggest problem is that once it gets hot it boils the coolant out then your problem is compounded. The trick is that the system must be PURE Evans, NO water or antifreeze. You have to buy more than you need to flush out the system. But, you can do what I did. I drained all the fluid, replaced it a couple times with plain water to flush the antifreeze out, draned it again, installed the Evans and ran it for a few miles, drained the fluid out, put it in a pan on the stove and let it boil out all the water then reinstalled the Evans.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Finailly got to check cylinder leak down. front 12% rear 8%. anything under 14 is generaly aceaptable so guess its back to run it and watch. Spent couple hrs trying to get all the air out off the system . Found 10-15 % of radiator cloged with mud. the upper section behind the hood was still caked up causing the heat. Everything is looking normal just seems these things run hot. Found the fan dont come on till 200+ degrees. I got a fan overide and hi flow pump on the way. along with will change over to engine ice or evans. Will have to give can am a little credit if it took that much heat and no damage .
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Does anyone know why and how the bypass in the cooling lines work. Looks like the inlet and outlet lines for radiator are tied together. what determines if water goes between the two.
 

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ya somethings not right ,

the guy in the Baja 500 took 2nd place all stock !
 

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Plus looks like its going to cost $1500 to bring clutch up to par.
I thought you already did your clutch upgrade.
 

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Does anyone know why and how the bypass in the cooling lines work. Looks like the inlet and outlet lines for radiator are tied together. what determines if water goes between the two.
You eliminate the portion where they tie together and plumb it like normal.
 
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