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Discussion Starter #1
So last ride at brimstone it overheated but radiator was pretty dirty so assumed that was the problem
Went to windrock for the rally raid and could not do a complete lap with out it overheating.
Fan working, radiator was clean as a new one and coolant was full.
After that i drilled the front shields full of holes for more air flow and tried it again. Same thing.
before race removed hood cowl and inner engine cover to let more air pass thru
only make one lap and overheat again. Before the race i was talking to one of the factory can am racers he said he had a 4x4inch hole cut in the side of belt cover to help cool It. With everything acting like it was working on the motor cooling i thought maybe the clutch was heating it up running the engine temps up. So last resort we pitted and cut a hole in the belt cover. Next lap same thing and this time something give because presure is build in the coolant now.
The cooling sytem seems to be patially working as if you just ease around it would run 3/4 on the temp bar but not overheat. but once you start pushing it .
its only good for 15 min and about 8 miles. Does anyone know what the waterpumps are made of . Is it possible it plastic and deformed and not pushing air.
With out dealer driveing it hard for 8miles its going to look like system is working . (other than the blown head gasket) .
calling dealer in the morning to see when can drop it off so here goes a could months lost riding
 

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sounds like u had air in your system
 

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Did it ever go into limp mode?
It should go into limp mode automatically so you can't blow the head gasket.
 

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Did it ever go into limp mode?
It should go into limp mode automatically so you can blow the head gasket.
that's what I thought to , weird
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did it ever go into limp mode?
It should go into limp mode automatically so you can blow the head gasket.
Yes. I'm counting that as overheating. Limp mode about 4 times. We run it about 30 second tops to get to safe place out of racer way and let it cool down . System has never Ben broke. If air in the lines it's been that way from th factory. I pulled the water pump cover just now. Impeller looks good . Was hoping it was deformed . Just want to know the cause before having motor put back together
 

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what makes u think the head gasket is blown coolant oil mix ?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
what makes u think the head gasket is blown coolant oil mix ?
At race after u got the cap of and it spewed . After that it was a constant steaming and spewing out of radiator fill cap.
Like it was getting pressure and air in the system from cylinder ?
It acts normal till gauge gets to five bars then there no adding coolant. It's a volcano
 

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Discussion Starter #9
When motor gets hot driver side of radiator will scald your hand and passenger side is cold . I can hold the Jose with hand till u get about a foot from waterpump. Almost seems like not circulating .
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Coolant dont look to have gas or oil in it so head might not be leaking but I don't have pressure gauge to see
 

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sounds like a clogged radiator ? one side cold one side hot ?



oil will have coolant in it and look milky ! if headgasket
 

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Does the overflow bottle fill up? When it cools down is the OF bottle still full and radiator is low?
Also does the coolant have any very tiny black particles? Will look like pepper. You can also do a leak down test on each cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Does the overflow bottle fill up? When it cools down is the OF bottle still full and radiator is low?
Also does the coolant have any very tiny black particles? Will look like pepper. You can also do a leak down test on each cylinder.
ill find a presure tester or leak down test and go from there. How bad are these things for airpockets in the system . Is it normal to come from the factory that way
 

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I would jack front end up a foot or so and bleed the system and fill it up keep it idling while bleeding - watch the heat gauge while its sitting there to
 

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Yes.. waterpump impellers are plastic... a bad design... I had one fail on the commander...I keep an extra impeller and housing now....just an fyi
 

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FYI, us mud guys know that, even though the rad looks clean its not even close. The fan shroud is so close to the rad that after a few cleaning it gets packed and is unable to evacuate itself of dirt and debris no matter how much it looks to be clean on the front side. Best thing for this is to take shroud off and clean the rad really good (you'll be surprised at what you see come out!) then get you some stainless washers or a small spacer of sorts and put it between the rad and the shroud to give a little more room for the debris to wash out the back side so that it doesn't clogged up so easily. It has made a world of difference in helping keep the rad clean and efficient. And for sure go to your owners manual and do the bleeding process for each head on your cooling system. Hope this helps.
 

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If one radiator hose is hot & the other radiator hose is not then you do have a circulation problem. Either air in the system not allowing the t-stat to open, you have a stuck t-stat or in-op water pump. I would lean towards a t-stat problem since you have never had the cooling system open/serviced until after having the problem & you have already inspected the water pump. Just make sure you bleed the cooling system after servicing to remove all trapped air. If the engine was overheated, it may have blown the head gasket & combustion gas may be getting in the cooling system also not allowing the t-stat to open. The t-stat is a pretty cheap design, in a plastic housing and inline of the rad hose. I had to replace the one in my Commander due to it leaking.
 

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oil will have coolant in it and look milky ! if headgasket[/QUOTE]

Not always. The gasket could be blown between cylinder and a water jacket allowing compression the enter the cooling system. This will cause the cooling system to overheat quickly but only while under a full load like racing. Jack up the front and bleed system like everybody says and then top off system. Start your rig and wait till it reaches operating temp while cap is off. have someone hold the throttle bout halfway and if you continue to see air bubbles surfacing that means compression is entering your cooling system, blown head gasket.
 
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I had air in mine. Unfortunately, I couldn't get it all out by lifting the front. I'm sure I could have spent the time, but I just decided to replace the fluid completely and follow the procedure in the book for bleeding. No more burping fluid out, and the fan on time definitely shortened. Can guarantee this, but it sure didn't look like 50/50 in mine.
 
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