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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking to get more lights for my Mav. I've already upgraded my factory headlights to rigid industries d2 duallys.

Now I'm wanting to get a 40" light bar for the cage, a smaller 12" or 10" for the bumper, and something for the a-pillars. So here's what I've been looking at:
For the cage
-totron 40" bullet face light bar 40 Inch Bullet Face Dual Row Light Bar
-aurora d-series 40" bar with 5w LEDs instead of 3w D-Series, 40" Dual Row LED Light Bar, White LEDs, Combination Beam Pattern
-rigid industries e-series if I can afford it

For the bumper
- totron 12" bullet face bar 12 Inch Bullet Face Dual Row LED Light Bar
-aurora d-series 10" bar D-Series, 10" Dual Row LED Light Bar, White LEDs, Combination Beam Pattern
-or a rigid e-series

For the A-pillar
-rigid industries d2 dually drives
-PlashLights "The Captian" LEDs, dually d2 style with 10w LEDs PlashLights.com - Driving & Work Lights - League City, TX
- open to any other opinions.

So what do you guys think? I'm open to everyone's thoughts, reviews, and recommendations on setting up my machine.
 
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PlashLights has some light bars i hear are pretty good. Aurora is/was a copy of rigid.. they had to make some changes due to them being a direct copy except the reflectors.

I have rigid light bar on my ranger and will more and likely add one to the Mav after the holidays.

one big one on top and you will not need any of the others.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
sooo beautiful!!!! it brings a tear to my eye. I love those headlights.

with 4 Rigid dually D2's i dont think you "need" much more.
Haha yea Mega i don't need it, it's for sure a "want". I love the conversion kit by the way!
 
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Just a word of advice you might want to do some math on all those bars, or better yet find a friend with the same size bars and throw an ammeter on them. Find out how much amperage they're actually pulling because some light bars kinda fib about their current draw.

I just looked up the D- Series 40" Dual row with 5 watt leds in it... It says it is a 400 watt light and pulls 16.9 amps... Which can only be correct if you have a 24 volt electrical system (400 watts / 16.9 amps = 23.6 volts) If you bolt that thing on your maverick and *IF* it's actually a 400 watt light. It will pull nearly 30 amps! (400 watts / 14.4 volts = 27.7 amps)

The 10" bar from those guys is rated the same way, it's only pulling the 4.1 amps at 24 volts... on your mav it will be closer to 7 amps..

Let's just assume that Rigid's numbers are pretty close to right so the 4 lights you have now are pulling 2.5 amps each so that is 10 amps already. Slap on the 40" bar (+28 amps) and the 10" bar (+7 amps) and you've got a 45 amp draw on your electrical system....

Even if you're rocking a Odyssey PC925 ($166) battery, that sports a 28 Amp Hour rating.. That battery would be completely dead in about 30 minutes. But you'll run out of juice to crank the mav in probably 15 provided you're running nothing else electrical. No stereo, no gps, no butt warmers or coffee makers.

I really doubt the maverick's charging system could keep the battery charged with a sustained 45 amp load even running at WOT the whole time.
 

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Just a word of advice you might want to do some math on all those bars, or better yet find a friend with the same size bars and throw an ammeter on them. Find out how much amperage they're actually pulling because some light bars kinda fib about their current draw.

I just looked up the D- Series 40" Dual row with 5 watt leds in it... It says it is a 400 watt light and pulls 16.9 amps... Which can only be correct if you have a 24 volt electrical system (400 watts / 16.9 amps = 23.6 volts) If you bolt that thing on your maverick and *IF* it's actually a 400 watt light. It will pull nearly 30 amps! (400 watts / 14.4 volts = 27.7 amps)

The 10" bar from those guys is rated the same way, it's only pulling the 4.1 amps at 24 volts... on your mav it will be closer to 7 amps..

Let's just assume that Rigid's numbers are pretty close to right so the 4 lights you have now are pulling 2.5 amps each so that is 10 amps already. Slap on the 40" bar (+28 amps) and the 10" bar (+7 amps) and you've got a 45 amp draw on your electrical system....

Even if you're rocking a Odyssey PC925 ($166) battery, that sports a 28 Amp Hour rating.. That battery would be completely dead in about 30 minutes. But you'll run out of juice to crank the mav in probably 15 provided you're running nothing else electrical. No stereo, no gps, no butt warmers or coffee makers.

I really doubt the maverick's charging system could keep the battery charged with a sustained 45 amp load even running at WOT the whole time.

its a 625 watt stator if that helps ur math
 

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625 watts at what rpm?
625 watts / 14.4 = 43 amps...

So no even if the stator, regulator / rectifier and battery worked at 100% efficiency (in which they don't) and you constantly drove at wot or 7000 rpms or whatever rpm the stator actually can produce 625 watts it won't be able to keep the battery charged. You would need a 50+ amp bolt on car alternator and a deep cycle marine battery to make it feasible.
 

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625 watts at what rpm?
625 watts / 14.4 = 43 amps...

So no even if the stator, regulator / rectifier and battery worked at 100% efficiency (in which they don't) and you constantly drove at wot or 7000 rpms or whatever rpm the stator actually can produce 625 watts it won't be able to keep the battery charged. You would need a 50+ amp bolt on car alternator and a deep cycle marine battery to make it feasible.
Interesting ... im wondering if we can get some input from some guys that already have this set up. I've seen plenty of guys running the same set up as I have right now.

Power steering, HID's, stereo, and now i want to add a 40" tortron light bar. Have any of you guys had problems with your battery draining and cutting off the Mav?
 

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Not sure if this is even worth mentioning but I put a Rigid 40" on the roll cage and a Rigid 10" on the front bumper and ran with the high beams on as well. After a time, the check engine light would come on because the battery was dead and the system was being drained. If I turned off the high beams the battery would charge and the check engine light would go off.

I took it to the dealer who called Rigid and spoke with a tech. I even had a new stator put in and after all that work it was decided that the stator was working fine. i just couldn't run all the lights on at once because the factory OEM lights were drawing even more amps than the 50 inches of Rigid lighting and therefor, together, they were draining the battery.

So now I just run without the factory lights and blind people just fine with only the LED light bars. :p
 

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Not sure if this is even worth mentioning but I put a Rigid 40" on the roll cage and a Rigid 10" on the front bumper and ran with the high beams on as well. After a time, the check engine light would come on because the battery was dead and the system was being drained. If I turned off the high beams the battery would charge and the check engine light would go off.

I took it to the dealer who called Rigid and spoke with a tech. I even had a new stator put in and after all that work it was decided that the stator was working fine. i just couldn't run all the lights on at once because the factory OEM lights were drawing even more amps than the 50 inches of Rigid lighting and therefor, together, they were draining the battery.

So now I just run without the factory lights and blind people just fine with only the LED light bars. :p
Factory lights are halogen and pull a lot of amps. Swap to led and problem solved.
 

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Factory lights are halogen and pull a lot of amps. Swap to led and problem solved.
That's why im hoping mine will be okay. Once they are warmed up... The hids draw a lot less than the stockers do.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So you think if I just added another set of d2 dually to the A-pillars and a 40" bar I'd be ok? That would give me 6 rigid d2 duallys and a 40" bar. No halogen cause I swapped out y factory lights for duallys.
 

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So you think if I just added another set of d2 dually to the A-pillars and a 40" bar I'd be ok? That would give me 6 rigid d2 duallys and a 40" bar. No halogen cause I swapped out y factory lights for duallys.
I think avoidance of the problem lies in which light you choose. A rigid E Series is only a 160 watt light, the 40" you posted a link to claimed to be a 400 watt light. A light bar drawing 28 amps is completely unacceptable to me personally. That's one item sucking down over half of what your charging system is capable of producing.

The 40" Rigid will draw about 11 amps where as that other one (again if they're honest about it being a 400 watt bar) will draw 28 amps! I will guarantee you you're getting more light for your money with the Rigid because of the better optics. Side by side comparisons might "look" to be similar but that 400 watt bar is having to work twice as hard and pull 2.5 times more current than the 160 watt Rigid. If you were to select a 400 watt Rigid setup and put it beside the 400 watt cheaper bar it would completely annihilate the cheaper bar.

As for stock headlights go they're usually 55 watt halogens, there's four of them.
55 watts x 4 lights = 220 watts total (NOTE: Halogens put out WAY less light per watt than LEDs)
220 watts / 14.4 volts = 15.2 amps!
The stock headlights are very inefficient and suck down a fair amount of power. Thus why
Giles333 was having battery issues with his 10" and 40" he was maxing or getting close to maxing the stock charging system out.

Your 4 dually d2's draw 2.5 amps each so if you run six of them that's 15 amps, plus the 28ish from the 40" bar (if you went with that one) and you'll be right back up there at 43 amps. Not completely maxxed out but I bet you'll still have dead batteries running all those lights at once.

You may spend a lot more on the rigid or even vision-x stuff (we didn't even talk about them because they're more expensive than rigid) than you will on these other 40" bars but you're getting a better product and picking that value up in efficiency and better optics.
 

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Manual say 625 watts at 6000 rpms
 

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I think avoidance of the problem lies in which light you choose. A rigid E Series is only a 160 watt light, the 40" you posted a link to claimed to be a 400 watt light. A light bar drawing 28 amps is completely unacceptable to me personally. That's one item sucking down over half of what your charging system is capable of producing.

The 40" Rigid will draw about 11 amps where as that other one (again if they're honest about it being a 400 watt bar) will draw 28 amps! I will guarantee you you're getting more light for your money with the Rigid because of the better optics. Side by side comparisons might "look" to be similar but that 400 watt bar is having to work twice as hard and pull 2.5 times more current than the 160 watt Rigid. If you were to select a 400 watt Rigid setup and put it beside the 400 watt cheaper bar it would completely annihilate the cheaper bar.

As for stock headlights go they're usually 55 watt halogens, there's four of them.
55 watts x 4 lights = 220 watts total (NOTE: Halogens put out WAY less light per watt than LEDs)
220 watts / 14.4 volts = 15.2 amps!
The stock headlights are very inefficient and suck down a fair amount of power. Thus why
Giles333 was having battery issues with his 10" and 40" he was maxing or getting close to maxing the stock charging system out.

Your 4 dually d2's draw 2.5 amps each so if you run six of them that's 15 amps, plus the 28ish from the 40" bar (if you went with that one) and you'll be right back up there at 43 amps. Not completely maxxed out but I bet you'll still have dead batteries running all those lights at once.

You may spend a lot more on the rigid or even vision-x stuff (we didn't even talk about them because they're more expensive than rigid) than you will on these other 40" bars but you're getting a better product and picking that value up in efficiency and better optics.
Let me put it in perspective.

42 Inch LED Light Bar 280 Watts
22 Inch LED Light Bar 120 Watts
2 HID 6000k 35 Watts Each for 70 Watts
2 HID 6000k 55 Watts Each for 110 Watts
1 Vertex Two Radio power output is 50 watts however I dont know what the requirement is.
1 Rugged 2-4 way intercom (686) not sure of the draw
1 Garmin 650t GPS not sure of the draw
1 5 light race bar along not sure of the draw
6 gauges
2 Safeglo Whips


Added an additional PC925 Dry Cell Odyssey Battery with a isolator.

580 Watts in LED and HID lights alone.

Never had an issue.

BAM!


photo.JPG
 

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Be patient! It takes a little time to cook the enamel off the magnet wire on your stator and destroy it..
Constantly exceeding the rating of your stator will fry it.
I ran this similar setup in my Rhino which had a 500 Watt Amp in addition to the lights for years and never had a problem.

On my Maverick the lights run off the second battery, the isolator charges the main battery and when it hits 13.2 Volts starts charging the second battery. When the main battery gets below 12.2 volts the isolator stops charging the second, applies the full charge to the main and the cycle starts all over again. The stator never knows it has all these lights hooked up to it. This works perfectly and the stator in the maverick is powerful enough to keep both batteries charged all night long.

I also ran this almost identical setup on my Commander for 2 years without an issue. We did the Dirt Diggers all night at Trona in 2011 and ran 8 hours though the night and it never missed a beat.

Dennis
 

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I ran this similar setup in my Rhino which had a 500 Watt Amp in addition to the lights for years and never had a problem.

On my Maverick the lights run off the second battery, the isolator charges the main battery and when it hits 13.2 Volts starts charging the second battery. When the main battery gets below 12.2 volts the isolator stops charging the second, applies the full charge to the main and the cycle starts all over again. The stator never knows it has all these lights hooked up to it. This works perfectly and the stator in the maverick is powerful enough to keep both batteries charged all night long.

I also ran this almost identical setup on my Commander for 2 years without an issue. We did the Dirt Diggers all night at Trona in 2011 and ran 8 hours though the night and it never missed a beat.

Dennis
It sounds like you've got a smart relay rather than an isolator.. A battery isolator is nothing more than a couple of large diodes which prevent one battery from draining the other but they are both always connected to the output of the charging system, plus a little voltage drop.

The system you're describing is a voltage sensitive relay that works to keep the main battery full and will sacrifice the charge on the second battery if it has to. (which isn't a bad thing at all)

The way your first post came across you led on like you had 680 watts of lights, several other accessories as well as the entire mavericks electrical system attached to and running off of nothing more than a pair of PC680's and the stator. Breaking up the electrical system into separate loads like you've done with an intelligent switching mechanism to direct charge where it needs to go is a whole different ball game! :cool2:
 
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