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Discussion Starter #1
Guys,

All in all, this is a very easy install. Take about an hour. Once UTV Inc gets their switches in, I'm going to buy one of their switches and install it at the factory designed location.


Heres a few items that you need to get in addition to the kit. I got everything at AutoZone.



- (3) # 16 Insulated heat shrink female Stakon connectors.

- (3) # 16 butt splice heat shrink connectors

- 25' #16 Red

- 25' #16 Black

- 10' 3/8" Flex tubing

- (1) pack small 6" ty-wraps

- 1/2 roll electric tape





1) with a 1/8" Drill bit, drill holes in the indicated locations:


Passenger side (approximately 2 O'clock):

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Driver side (approximately 10 O'clock):

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2) Clean outer rim of lights with the supplied alcohol pads.

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3) Peel off plastic on the back side of Halo's. Feed the wire through holes and install halo's while pulling the slack on the wire from the ther side of holes.

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4) Open hood. Feed wires through the back side of the air box.

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5) Electric tape all wires together approximately 10-12" from the longest wire. Cut wires to the length of the shortest wire.

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6) Secure wires behind the air box with small ty-wraps as not to interfere with opening the air box. Install Flex tubing and electric tape to secure it to the wires. Terminate black wires to the same terminal block along with about 12-18" of black #16 wire (we will trim this later). Terminate black & white wires to the other supplied terminal block with 12-18" of red # 16 wire.

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7) Install Flex tubing & Secure to wires. Wrap the terminal blocks with electric tape to create a water-tight seal.

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8) Open Dash and feed wires through. Remove drivers seat and side cover. Install (1) red & (1) black wire in remaining flex tubing and secure with electric tape. Be sure to leave about 12" on load side (switch side) and just to the end of the flex tube on the line side (battery side). Install tubing from desired switch location as shown in the picture below. Be mindful of the heat the engine will create and avoid close proximity to the motor.

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9) Pop the tabs by the cup holders and lift slightly. Feed wire & Tubing through the small opening on the top side of the battery, and just to the driver side. Here you will find a connector that is not connected to anything. This is a spare set of wires that will only be "hot" when the ignition switch is on. Below is a picture of the connector.

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10) Cut the connector off and carefully cut the tape back to expose about 2" of wire. Install butt splice connectors. Slightly pull the connectors to ensure they are tight. Hold lighter to connector and shrink to wires.

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11) Cut back newly installed wires to about 3" from the end of the flex tube. Connect newly installed red & black wires to the butt splice, test tightness of wires & heat shrink. Cover the butt splices with flex tubing. secure with electric tape & small ty-wrap.

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12) Twist together the (2) black wires and install on 1 end of butt splice. Install about 6" of black #16 on the other end of the butt splice. Test connectivity and heat shrink. Install sta-kons on the (1) Black wire & (2) Red wires. Drill hole for switch at desired location. Feed wires through the back of the hole. Install wires to switch and install switch.

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13) Test light operation & ENJOY!

mav 1.jpg

mav 2.jpg

Mav 3.jpg

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Tricled Slingshot Lighting

umopapIsdn,

Very professional install & looks great!

I really like mine as well. They are much brighter than the blue ones I purchased for my Commander a couple years ago. Just an FYI, my Commander is street legal and cars/trucks would pull out in front of me all the time prior to installing the Blue Halo's (they didn't want to be caught behind a slow atv, but didn't realize I was going 55+mph)..., since then not one incident. I firmly believe that they are a real safety item for increased visibility.

I also purchased the "Tricled Slingshot" (4) interior light strips with remote and installed them on my cage and upper cross bar support for pretty neat operators cab lighting. The remote allows you to run many different colors options and configurations. Tricled products are very high quality and I strongly recommend them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys. The halos are 76mm I believe. And verado, that's a badass rig you've got. Love the bumper. Who makes it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Thanks guys. The halos are 76mm I believe. And verado, that's a badass rig you've got. Love the bumper. Who makes it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks umopapIsdn,

I really like your yellow Mav (I'm also a big Ski-doo snowmobile fan, I've been BRP brand loyal for many years...through both the good & bad)! Lol

Racer Tech made my bumpers, tie rods, radius rods, chassis gussets, roof brace and suspension springs (BTW, what a transformation in the ride and handling with RT XDS Turbo Spring Kit, even more amazing after Yokley Racing re-valved my shocks)!! I couldn't be happier with handling and performance (Stage 1 Flash) in my XDS Turbo. Without a doubt the best combination of power and handling of any SxS that I have had the opportunity to drive!!

FYI, that RT front bumper shown with small grills really keeps the radiator very clean. I'm very pleased with all of my Racer Tech products, not only do they look great but they are very high quality and provide awesome performance to match. I just can't say enough positive things about the customer service and product support that I have received from RT the past few years, Andy and his staff are all a first class stand up team.
 

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