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Discussion Starter #1
I know a bunch of u guys are running a 40 totron. I just ordered a 50. Are there any power/battery issues running them with a stereo and no extra battery assuming ur not running both without the buggy cranked and running?


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I see my volt meter drop from 13.6 volts to 12.6 volts when I power up my 40", and I don't have a stereo, or comms. If it were me, I'd probably go dual batteries with an isolator, just for my own peace of mind. Would be the shits to kill the battery in the middle of BFE.
 

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40" light bar pulls 240W. I think the 50" unit draws around 280W. Based on Andy's observations above with voltage drop, I think that 50 is gonna be asking an awful lot from the stock charging system especially if you're running other lights or accessories and not keeping the RPM's up all the time. The stator on these Mav's put out 650W total, but that's only developed at higher RPM's. You may want to consider that 2nd battery option.

However, please do let us all know how your car handles the electrical load in the meantime! This would be good information to have.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If that's the route I need to take, where do I get an isolator and is there a thread that tells me how to wire it up that y'all can point me to?

Thanks!
Buster


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I found a new isolator that I am using for all my builds now. I have yet to find one that's better. I don't sell these nor am I affiliated with this company. You can search through these forums and find several posts regarding how to wire and mount an additional battery.

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Rigid SR lightbars pull low wattage. for the cost of a second battery, tray, wiring and isolator i would go with Rigid.

i bought 3 Rigid SR lighbars (2-10's and 1 30") for my maverick and one Totron 50" bar for my Teryx, they put out the exact same amount of light when i tested them in a dark field. But the Rigid pulls half the power.
 

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Rigid SR lightbars pull low wattage. for the cost of a second battery, tray, wiring and isolator i would go with Rigid.

i bought 3 Rigid SR lighbars (2-10's and 1 30") for my maverick and one Totron 50" bar for my Teryx, they put out the exact same amount of light when i tested them in a dark field. But the Rigid pulls half the power.
u got a smoking deal on the rigids and the totron was still half the price , lol
 

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totron FTW :) lol
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The rigid is a ton more than a battery and isolator will cost. I love rigid and have a 10 in the front bumper. Just can't justify the price of the 50. Sooooo, now I got find that thread on how to wire and where to find a battery box from. I like the link posted a few replies back for that isolator. Thx!


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I'm not seeing the need for another battery. At idle my voltage is 14.4 with nothing on. When I turn on the 40" and 12" bars it drops to 14.2. Turn those off and just fire up the low beam only and the voltage drops to 13.8. With high beam only it's 13.6. So a 40 and 12" light bar pulls less juce than the low beams. And these are generac bars. My 40 is on Amazon for $206.00 right now.
 
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I was running my battery down and getting a check engine light on my Commander when running a 40" and a 10" Rigid light bar. I thought it was the stater so I took it to the dealer. They thought the same thing so they replaced it and it didn't fix the problem. So they called Rigid and talked to an engineer and they figured out that the combination of a 40" & 10" light bar with the stock headlights working at the same time was to much for the stater to supply without draining the battery. So the simpest solution was to run my Commander with the ignition key turned all the way to the right where the stock headlights are turned off. After that I never had a problem.

I installed a 40" Rigid and 3-2" lights on my Maverick and run it the same way with the ignition key all the way to the right and it works just fine like in my Commander.

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I was running my battery down and getting a check engine light on my Commander when running a 40" and a 10" Rigid light bar. I thought it was the stater so I took it to the dealer. They thought the same thing so they replaced it and it didn't fix the problem. So they called Rigid and talked to an engineer and they figured out that the combination of a 40" & 10" light bar with the stock headlights working at the same time was to much for the stater to supply without draining the battery. So the simpest solution was to run my Commander with the ignition key turned all the way to the right where the stock headlights are turned off. After that I never had a problem.

I installed a 40" Rigid and 3-2" lights on my Maverick and run it the same way with the ignition key all the way to the right and it works just fine like in my Commander.

View attachment 8393
I do the same thing. The 40" pretty much drowns out the stock headlights anyway.
 

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I was running my battery down and getting a check engine light on my Commander when running a 40" and a 10" Rigid light bar. I thought it was the stater so I took it to the dealer. They thought the same thing so they replaced it and it didn't fix the problem. So they called Rigid and talked to an engineer and they figured out that the combination of a 40" & 10" light bar with the stock headlights working at the same time was to much for the stater to supply without draining the battery. So the simpest solution was to run my Commander with the ignition key turned all the way to the right where the stock headlights are turned off. After that I never had a problem.

I installed a 40" Rigid and 3-2" lights on my Maverick and run it the same way with the ignition key all the way to the right and it works just fine like in my Commander.

View attachment 8393
you need a set of these
Can Am Commander Maverick Max LED Headlight Adapters | eBay
 

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Stop tempting me!!!! LOL I think I am already hated on the trails when I meet people. Half the people are giving me the "thumbs up" while the other half are giving me the middle finger!!! You are not helping!!! :big smile:
The stock halogens really pull a lot of power. Just watch a volt meter when you turn on the stock lights and high beams. It drops a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Where is everyone getting battery boxes for under the driver seat? Dunertunes has a very nice one but I'm concerned about height. They say it works under the max seat but I don't know if the Xrs under seat height is the same. Does anyone know for sure?


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You can look at the EMP battery tray for a commander and an Odyssey battery. I used a stock commander battery box and a stock maverick / commander battery. (same sizes) Tits under the seat nicely. That way you will end up with 540cca when both are connected. I pretty sure you could even get away with out an isolater.
 

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I have a 40" totron and HID high (50w) and low (35) beams and a 750W JL Marine amp'd stereo with a single battery. I'm planning on adding a second battery and isolator, but to my surprise, I've had no issues with this setup with everything on. While night riding we tend to take a break about every 45-60 minutes for about 15 minutes or so and I'll usually turn off the lights and let it run. I have ridden for about 5-6 consecutive hours at night like this with no issues.

I did just add a winch and I'm a little concerned that I might not have the juice immediately available for the winch during a night ride, so I'll probably add a second battery soon. Depending upon how much I'm loading the amplifier, I'm sure I'm near 650W at full load.
 
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