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When I take jumps the back of the rig bucks up causing the unit to land on the front wheels. I have played with suspension even taking 6 turns out of the rear spring. Is anyone else having this problem and how did you fix it?

This is about the only problem I can find with this maverick.

Im not a racer just someone that likes to jump on occasion.

Thanks

Rich
 

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I had that problem too. If you have the Xrs, try closing off the rebound all the way, also use a little throttle thru the jump. Worked for me. Check out the thread on XRS shock settings.
 

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They key to making your jumps right is the throttle. Stay in the throttle through the jump. As far as suspension close your rebound all the way off(clockwise) and open your compression clickers all the way up (counter clockwise). Don't adjust the rebound at all. Just adjust the compression clickers to keep from bottoming out.
 

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I really haven't jumped my Mav very high yet so I may not have the exact answer for you but I beleive throttle is the key along with the face of the jump. If you let off the throttle as soon as you get in the air the clutch/engine braking acts like hitting the rear brake on a dirt bike in the air, it kicks the rear up. You need to feather the throttle so the engine braking doesn't engage until just before the landing then you let off the throttle. Like I said I'm no expert but my Commander was real bad with wanting to lawn dart & unless I kept a little throttle while in the air. Face of the jump is also critical, seems that if it has a sharp lip it will also kick up the rear easier.
 

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They key to making your jumps right is the throttle. Stay in the throttle through the jump. As far as suspension close your rebound all the way off(clockwise) and open your compression clickers all the way up (counter clockwise). Don't adjust the rebound at all. Just adjust the compression clickers to keep from bottoming out.
I think you mean 'Don't adjust the preload (springs) at all"??
And yeah, stay on the gas all the way through the jump. Better to land on the front wheels a little bit, just shouldn't feel like you're staring straight at the ground.
 

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I actually just rode with these suggested adjustments and really like how it smoothed the bucking out. I let out a little spring preload as suggested before as well. The only thing i found a little bothersome was the lean when cornering with these setting was more pronounced. My tires are at 15 and 14 pds. Just gotts be a little more carefull doing donuts!!
 

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No I meant once you close the rebound all the way off leave that alone. The stock rebound is awful in these shocks. I personally wouldn't mess with the springs but that's just my suggestion.
 

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Correct, this is one of the main reactions of the rebound being too fast in the rear and it's a very common thing. Close the rebound adjuster all the way off and start from there.
The next thing to do is go into the shock and change the valving. This is a service that we offer.
 

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the biggest thing about jumping a short wheelbase vehicle. is the take off ramp, if its too short the suspension does not have time to settle and the springs will extend with force while in the air. Which kicks up the rear of the car. If you have a take off ramp about 2x as long as your wheelbase you should be able to hit it at any speed with not major kick in the rear.

short lips are really hard and scary on a sxs, they tend to kick the rear end ass over tea kettle and leave you staring at the ground with a death grip on the steering wheel and your but hole puckered.
 

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the biggest thing about jumping a short wheelbase vehicle. is the take off ramp, if its too short the suspension does not have time to settle and the springs will extend with force while in the air. Which kicks up the rear of the car. If you have a take off ramp about 2x as long as your wheelbase you should be able to hit it at any speed with not major kick in the rear.

short lips are really hard and scary on a sxs, they tend to kick the rear end ass over tea kettle and leave you staring at the ground with a death grip on the steering wheel and your but hole puckered.
Ever notice how much the steering column flexes forward in that situation. Directly proportional to the but pucker. LOL
 

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the biggest thing about jumping a short wheelbase vehicle. is the take off ramp, if its too short the suspension does not have time to settle and the springs will extend with force while in the air. Which kicks up the rear of the car. If you have a take off ramp about 2x as long as your wheelbase you should be able to hit it at any speed with not major kick in the rear.

short lips are really hard and scary on a sxs, they tend to kick the rear end ass over tea kettle and leave you staring at the ground with a death grip on the steering wheel and your but hole puckered.
aww , I think u seen me do it at the dunes last time, lol
 

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do this just for the rear shocks or front to ?

I had that problem too. If you have the Xrs, try closing off the rebound all the way, also use a little throttle thru the jump. Worked for me. Check out the thread on XRS shock settings.
They key to making your jumps right is the throttle. Stay in the throttle through the jump. As far as suspension close your rebound all the way off(clockwise) and open your compression clickers all the way up (counter clockwise). Don't adjust the rebound at all. Just adjust the compression clickers to keep from bottoming out.
CWin is right - too fast rear rebound. Turn it all the way in.
 

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A group of 10 sxs had a week in the Dunes in Esperance Western Australia. 9 Polaris RZR's and lonely old me, the only Can Am.
Needless to say the Can Am kicked ass all week long, topend, handling, climbing, duning and jumping. The Mav had the best jump by far, but I did land it on the front wheels. My arse grabbed the seat and I alsmost broke the streering.

One of the RZR's who tried to make the same distance actually rolled head over tail.

I'll be adjusting that preload tomorrow.
 

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Ever notice how much the steering column flexes forward in that situation. Directly proportional to the but pucker. LOL
have you seen how the steering wheel is attached? stainless wood screws into a plastic hub. i was going to just replace the steering wheel but now it needs a hub with quick release to make sure it stays connected to the steering shaft when in those pucker situations.
 

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have you seen how the steering wheel is attached? stainless wood screws into a plastic hub. i was going to just replace the steering wheel but now it needs a hub with quick release to make sure it stays connected to the steering shaft when in those pucker situations.
Ahh.... are you serious! I better check this out! It doesn't sound strong enough for me.
 
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