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Hey guys. I just finished my initial 10 hour service, and thought I would share a little bit of it with you. I was on the fence about doing it myself, but after weighing the costs out for oil and filters plus my time, vs paying $500-$600 to have it done, I decided to do it myself. I'm glad I ended up doing it, as I feel more familiar with the machine now. I do consider myself mechanically inclined, and I have the correct tools and work space to perform the service.. It was time consuming as expected, but overall not difficult at all.
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I started by removing the rear most factory skid plate to gain access to the engine oil drain plug and oil filter cover. I noticed that there was coolant laying in the skid plate.. Not a huge amount, but enough that sand had stuck all over the top side of the skid plate and it was starting to leak out the skid plate. I traced the coolant to the hose that comes out of the water pump housing, just below the oil filter cover.
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I backed the clamp off, moved the hose 90 degrees each way, and pressed it onto the neck with force while twisting it to ensure it was seated as well as it could be. I re tightened the clamp, which did feel fairly loose when I loosened it. On with the servicing.
I drained the gearbox, engine oil, both differentials, and changed the oil filter while the machine was up. The engine oil/filter definitely makes a mess.. No good way to escape that. The mess from the differentials can be minimized by stuffing paper towels around the drain holes prior to pulling the plugs. This directs the fluid out the hole on the metal stationary plates rather than allowing it to spread out across them, creating more mess.
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I had the sport low switch less harness from Arctic Bomb ready to install as well.. I have been saving it until this service was due to avoid pulling the skid plate twice
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All the fluids are drained, and plugs are replaced. Oil filter replaced with an OEM Can Am filter, I am ready to lower the machine and start filling everything back up with fresh oil.
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I took a piece of 3/8 fuel hose, and a short piece of hard 3/8 OD air line, and slipped them together. This have me a pliable rubber hose at the top to pour my oil into, and a harder piece of line that I could shove into the gearbox and diff fill holes without having to work it in there or worry about spilling any fluid. All of the cavities held within an ounce of the specified capacity.
Once everything was full of oil, I started the machine and let it idle for about 30 seconds to check for leaks. I then allowed it to sit a few minutes, then checked the engine oil level to make sure it was good. I left the passengers seat, fuel tank cover, and bottom skid plate off of the machine. I loaded it up and hauled it down to the car wash to try and get all of the leftover residue off from the gearbox/engine/diff fluid draining. It's a pretty messy ordeal under there.
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Got the machine cleaned up, pulled back onto the lift. Ready to install the fuel tank cover, seat, and lower skid plate now.
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Finally finished buttoning everything up. It took quite a while, but I am now more familiar with my machine and also several hundred dollars ahead vs paying the dealership to do it. It should be good to go for a while now. It's really a pretty simple set of steps to go through. Just take your time and be clean with everything. I appreciate the previous write up that somebody posted with drain plug locations and stuff, I used that to help me out. The drains could be tricky to find if you didn't know much about what you are doing.
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I am waiting to check the valve clearances until around 20 hours. I have faith they'll be fine until then.. And somebody stated in the other thread about the first service that most dealers will tell you that they rarely see a machine with 10 hours on it that needs an adjustment.
Thanks for reading, and I hope maybe this will help somebody out in some way.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I started by removing the rear most factory skid plate to gain access to the engine oil drain plug and oil filter cover. I noticed that there was coolant laying in the skid plate.. Not a huge amount, but enough that sand had stuck all over the top side of the skid plate and it was starting to leak out the skid plate. I traced the coolant to the hose that comes out of the water pump housing, just below the oil filter cover.
I backed the clamp off, moved the hose 90 degrees each way, and pressed it onto the neck with force while twisting it to ensure it was seated as well as it could be. I re tightened the clamp, which did feel fairly loose when I loosened it. On with the servicing.
I drained the gearbox, engine oil, both differentials, and changed the oil filter while the machine was up. The engine oil/filter definitely makes a mess.. No good way to escape that. The mess from the differentials can be minimized by stuffing paper towels around the drain holes prior to pulling the plugs. This directs the fluid out the hole on the metal stationary plates rather than allowing it to spread out across them, creating more mess.
I had the sport low switch less harness from Arctic Bomb ready to install as well.. I have been saving it until this service was due to avoid pulling the skid plate twice
All the fluids are drained, and plugs are replaced. Oil filter replaced with an OEM Can Am filter, I am ready to lower the machine and start filling everything back up with fresh oil.
I took a piece of 3/8 fuel hose, and a short piece of hard 3/8 OD air line, and slipped them together. This have me a pliable rubber hose at the top to pour my oil into, and a harder piece of line that I could shove into the gearbox and diff fill holes without having to work it in there or worry about spilling any fluid. All of the cavities held within an ounce of the specified capacity.
Once everything was full of oil, I started the machine and let it idle for about 30 seconds to check for leaks. I then allowed it to sit a few minutes, then checked the engine oil level to make sure it was good. I left the passengers seat, fuel tank cover, and bottom skid plate off of the machine. I loaded it up and hauled it down to the car wash to try and get all of the leftover residue off from the gearbox/engine/diff fluid draining. It's a pretty messy ordeal under there.
Got the machine cleaned up, pulled back onto the lift. Ready to install the fuel tank cover, seat, and lower skid plate now.
Finally finished buttoning everything up. It took quite a while, but I am now more familiar with my machine and also several hundred dollars ahead vs paying the dealership to do it. It should be good to go for a while now. It's really a pretty simple set of steps to go through. Just take your time and be clean with everything. I appreciate the previous write up that somebody posted with drain plug locations and stuff, I used that to help me out. The drains could be tricky to find if you didn't know much about what you are doing.
I am waiting to check the valve clearances until around 20 hours. I have faith they'll be fine until then.. And somebody stated in the other thread about the first service that most dealers will tell you that they rarely see a machine with 10 hours on it that needs an adjustment.
Thanks for reading, and I hope maybe this will help somebody out in some way.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
