[Mclaughc]

A few weeks ago I went and picked up a clean looking X3 with 800 miles on it. I took it out for the first time on New Year’s Eve and found that there was going to be a little clutch work needed. I bought an ibexx stage 3 clutch kit and the tools along with a rebuild kit from KWI. All of the parts showed up yesterday so it was time to get into this thing.

Using the KWI tools made getting the parts onto the workbench easy but once on the bench I found that I had bigger problems. The primary bearing was completely seized but this should be ok as a new bearding was in the kit. After separating the inner and outer half, I also noticed that many of the fins on the inner were broken off, I also found the inner case had been damaged too.

So here is where I need the help… if I am buying a new inner half, do I also need to buy a new outer half? In the YouTube videos that I’ve seen, it’s almost always mentioned to mark the parts as they need to be put back with the same alignment.

Thanks

 

[kbeefy]

If the faces look good I wouldn't buy both halves. Do you have access to someone that can balance it for you?

 

[Mclaughc]

If the faces look good I wouldn't buy both halves. Do you have access to someone that can balance it for you?

Not that I know of other than sending the parts in to KWI or other in a different state. I'm sure I could use a local machine shop if I had the specs but would rather use somebody who is used to working on the can-am parts.

I ended up ordering the inside and outside halves after posting this so the new parts should be here this week. I'm surprised that I haven't seen other threads where folks have broken off the fins when losing the belts.

Both surfaces where the belt runs feel a little warped with high and low spots as well as both having a little ridge about 3/8's out from the center. Like I said, I'm new to this style of drive su=ystem and don't really have anything else to compare them too.

Chris

 

[Dizzledog1]

800 miles? That machine has been rode hard and put up wet. We’ve got guys with well over 10k miles with no clutch issues. I’m at 3700 and have only replaced rollers which were still intact but worn


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[Mclaughc]

800 miles? That machine has been rode hard and put up wet. We’ve got guys with well over 10k miles with no clutch issues. I’m at 3700 and have only replaced rollers which were still intact but worn


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It was indeed, today after looking the rest of the drivetrain I found that there was a lot of damage to the rest of the rear including the wheels, brakes, and the hubs. The front end looked nice and clean as well with the motor and the front and rear ends.

I ended up ordering a new housing, seals, inner and outer of the primary drive. I would have rather used this money for upgrades but ended up investing it into stock parts.


Here are some picks of todays findings. Both left and right looked about the same. 🥴

 

[Dizzledog1]

All of that is normal. Are those 14” wheels? The clutch is not though . Way too early for that


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[Mclaughc]

All of that is normal. Are those 14” wheels? The clutch is not though . Way too early for that


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They were 14's but I also replaced those with 15's and 35's today.

 

[Dizzledog1]

15” wheels are you best bet. You remove rock scrapers also I assume?


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[Mclaughc]

All of that is normal. Are those 14” wheels? The clutch is not though . Way too early for that


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Is there a good place to order factory style replacement brake parts and the hubs? I find plenty of $900+ hubs? I just didn't expect to fall down the rabbit hole so soon.

 

[Dizzledog1]

Rmatv is the cheapest. Do you really need new ones? They still work and don’t leak right?


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[Mclaughc]

Rmatv is the cheapest. Do you really need new ones? They still work and don’t leak right?


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The hubs are totally bent and the clippers were broken with only one mounting point wrapped with baling wire and the rotors were very warped.

 

[Dizzledog1]

Yeah I didn’t see that in the pics. My bad . Try to find a wrecked one or someone on here that’s done the big brake kit. Might be able to find them on the cheap.


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[kbeefy]

The F'd up wheels and ruined brake pads are not normal wear. I restrained myself from saying anything when you first posted hoping that it was just some crazy fluke, but now I can confirm that this machine was abused extremely. There are machines out here that have 8k+ and dont show this kind of neglect or damage.

I hope you got a good deal.

 

[Wicked can]

Damn thats pretty shitty guy sold it to you like that. I bought a 21 used with three hundred miles on it just two months ago. When i test drove it i could hear the secondary spinning in park. Knew there was a clutch issue. Pulled it apart at home and the one way was dug into the shaft it rides on. $310 for a new inner from kwi. Spent the next month going theough the rest of the car and selling off parts. Luckily no other issues. I dont know why the primary locked up like that. There was no signes of a blown belt in there or anything out of the ordinary. Only thing i can figure is one way bearing was put in dry at factory.

 

[Sublimeshooter]

Thats pretty shit of a guy to sell a machine like that. I'm sure he never mentioned slamming into a tree or whatever he did to bend and break that stuff let alone mention his "repairs".

Partszilla is your friend here. New knuckles are like $125 each.

 

[sand shark]

Is there a good place to order factory style replacement brake parts and the hubs? I find plenty of $900+ hubs? I just didn't expect to fall down the rabbit hole so soon.

Call CT Raceworx and order OEM hubs from them with their bigger retaining clip upgrade with new bearings.

 

[Mclaughc]

Call CT Raceworx and order OEM hubs from them with their bigger retaining clip upgrade with new bearings.

My son in-law is working on getting me a set of these today.

 

[sand shark]

Given the abuse those hubs and brakes took I would look over those rear trailing arms very carefully to make sure they have not developed any cracks.

As you are getting new rear hubs I would look into either the Assault Industries center radius rod bracket or consider the Shock Therapy Toe Link kit. The bolt hole on the hub can get wallowed out over time.

 

[Mclaughc]

15” wheels are you best bet. You remove rock scrapers also I assume?


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i removed what was left of the scrapers today. Only the plastic base was left there.

 

[Scott F]

There is no way all of that wear and damage happened in 800 miles.
NO WAY, unless all 800 miles were in waist deep mud pits and the lug nuts were loose.
That skinny lug nut on the left is incorrect and should be trashed. The oem on the right is good to go.
Torque your wheels to 100 lb ft and that wheel wallowing will never happen again.

I hate to be the one to say it, but I think you bought an 800 mile car that was cannibalized and stripped of all the good new parts.
The good parts ended up on his or his buddies worn out car to freshen it up, and you got screwed with the worn out parts.
I hope I'm wrong, but it is the only thing that makes any sense to me.