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Came across this what's your thought?
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
Interesting read on Engine Break-in....
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My thoughts are Beat it from first start.. I build nothing but Hight HP diesels and Turbo gas engines and tunes for these.. Ive never Broke a Engine in I rip it like I built it for from first start.. never failed me and rings seat real quick.. Nothing else to Break in...
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My dealer didn't tell me about break in period n I didn't find this forum tell way late but I broke mine in like I broke in very truck diesel n gas I have bought..... Leg extended knee locked n pedal down not only that but I was one of the only mavericks in a crap load of poo so I had to race everyone that weekend didn't lose one race but they were all lifted or a lot of extras weighing em down still I had that machine at 77 more than 20 mph all weekend
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Break them in hard and fast, they run hard and fast!
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Also, there's one picture in there of a pair of Honda race motorcycle engines. 1 was broken in with the Moto Man method, and the other was broken in according to manufacturer's recommendations. At the end of the season both motors were torn down. The piston that was broken in with the Moto Man method looked brand new. The other piston you could tell that it had blow by all season long and it was black and thrashed. That picture is what did it for me.
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I guess my only reservation to this balls-to-the-wall break-in procedure is this.
2 similar engines (same displacement, same piston/ring setup) One makes lets say 50hp for arguement sake. It will only be able to exert so much force and heat as compared to an engine that puts out 101hp, such as the Maverick engine. So in theory even though you push the lower HP engine as hard as you can you are still only generating so much force and heat (basically half that of the high HP engine). So does this mean the break in will be less effective on the lower HP engine if you follow the same break-in procedure?
I guess what I am getting at is if you drive it normal and don't just start it up and let it idle for an hour, I think you will get the same break-in results as if you drove it like you stole it.
2 similar engines (same displacement, same piston/ring setup) One makes lets say 50hp for arguement sake. It will only be able to exert so much force and heat as compared to an engine that puts out 101hp, such as the Maverick engine. So in theory even though you push the lower HP engine as hard as you can you are still only generating so much force and heat (basically half that of the high HP engine). So does this mean the break in will be less effective on the lower HP engine if you follow the same break-in procedure?
I guess what I am getting at is if you drive it normal and don't just start it up and let it idle for an hour, I think you will get the same break-in results as if you drove it like you stole it.
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I been using the Moto Man method on all my engines for several years. I first read about it on the advice of a Harley mechanic, and used this method to break in a 2005 Harley Wide Glide. It has a bone stock 88ci twin cam motor, and has 50k+ miles on it and still runs stronger than my bro-in-laws 95ci S&S built EVO motor (pisses him off). I used the same method to break in an 06 LTZ 400 that runs great, an 08 KFX 450r that has a few bolt ons and runs like a scalded dog, and a 08 KFX 700 that is just an absolute torq monster. All my toys are well maintained, but get rode hard, and all are still running in excellent condition with no blow-by, no compression loss, and no smoking. Needless to say I used the same method breaking in my Mav. I can't argue with the results.
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Andy with all those machines it's sounds like you sir are having to much fun with life so I want to help you before it gets to far I will take some of those off your hands this way you don't have to worry bout heart problems from to fun excitement :smile:
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What I'm getting at is basically all of the vehicle you mentioned above have the same basic type an composite material that is used to make the rings and cylinders. Some have much more power than others. So how can you consider them being put under the same break-in conditions whe some make close to 2 times the power or more than others..... I agree you need a fair amount of pressure and heat on the rings and cylinders to seat the rings properly but I don't think you have to hot rod it from it's first breathe in order to achieve proper ring seating....
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I'm no metallurgist, but I do understand what your getting at. All I'm saying is that my results using the Moto Man method have all been as advertised. Seating the rings in the 1st 20 or so mile of break in seems to be the key, regardless of HP.
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I hear ya.....and trust me, I will be doing this from here on with any new machine or engine rebuild as well. I guess what I am trying to get across was that although the ride it like you stole it method works great. I don't think it takes going to that extreme to properly seat the rings....
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The same break in conditions should apply to all vehicles. A 500 cc motor making 50 horsepower, a 1000 cc motor making 101 horsepower, of 5.0 Mustang making 225 stock or 500 modified. I remember 30 years ago someone say something like break it in hard, and it'll run hard. Break it in easy, and you have less power or something like that. Well the moto man method just shows evidence for that.
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