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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Installed a new Gen3 carrier bearing from Sandcraft motorsports in my X3 XRS four seater. I was getting a clicking noise coming from my drive line and could not figure it out for the longest time. I saw some post on here about the carrier bearings and started checking around. I liked the idea of moving the drive shaft (prop shaft) over just a bit and making the entire drive line straight from front to back.

Sandcare Motorsports has a video online doing an install in a two seater but it is a lot different in the four seater. They may have a video on that but I have not found it. I will post some of the photos I took for anyone who is thinking of putting one of these in.

What I have noticed so fare:

No more clicking sound and I did not add more grease to the drive shaft. You can grease the drive line splines and many said this has eliminated the noise but it has to be done a couple of times per year.

Hookup in forward and reverse is much smother.

No vibrations at any speed/rpm so fare

Drive shaft/prop shaft was out of phase by 90 degrees from factory and the green marks on the shaft were not even lined up. With them lined up it is still out of phase so I ignored the lines they and I had made on the shaft and got it phased correctly.

Carrier bearing is greaseable and I installed the grease hose so I can grease it without removing anything from the car.

20180727_171845.jpg
20180727_154456.jpg
20180727_151001.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
My Install

The install is simple enough however in the two seat version you do not remove the seats and the carrier bearing fit with out trimming. In the four seater that is not the case.

1) Remove the front seats, and the first three access panels on both sides of the car.

2) Remove the nut and bolt from the front drive shaft at the front diff and remove the two bolts holding the carrier bearing down. You will have to pull the two radiator lines out of the way for the passengers side bolt. You will them be able to remove the front drive shaft.
20180727_150925.jpg 20180727_150938.jpg 20180727_150941.jpg

3) remove the snap ring in the forward facing side of the carrier bearing and slide the bearing off the drive shaft.
20180727_153846.jpg

4) use an 11/4 hole saw to cut of the bottom and middle of the plastic where the old carrier bearing bolt was on the passengers side of the car. 20180728_182600.jpg 20180727_150941.jpg 20180727_155351.jpg 20180727_155511.jpg

5) bolt the bottom plate down using the new bolts and provided blue locktight. Make sure the logo is facing to the front of the car.
20180727_160449.jpg

6) slide this brass spacer on rear shaft first with the beveled end toward the back of the car. Then slide the new gen3 carrier bearing onto the rear drive shaft (logo facing the front of the car) and use their new lock ring or the old snap ring. I use the old one as the new one they provide (last picture on this line) was much more a PITA tan I wanted to deal with.
20180727_160519.jpg 20180727_160540.jpg 20180727_160935.jpg

7) slide the front drive shaft onto the rear drive shaft make sure you marks are aliened correctly( blue lines on the drive shaft). Check to make sure that the shafts are phased correctly. If you find that yours are not phased correctly from the factory you can make that change now. My factory lines were off by about 90 degrees from being in phase. There are plenty of threads about this on the forum and show videos on how to do it and what happens if you do not.
20180727_171845.jpg
8) make sure you put the front drive shaft on the front diff at this point before you bolt the carrier bearing to the base. Remember to put the bolt and nut back on the front drive shaft, it is easy to forget about it later.

9) Use the two new bolts and provided blue lock tight to attach the carrier bearing the base plate. In this picture they are the ones that are partially threaded into the bottom of the base plate and into the carrier bearing assembly.
20180727_154456.jpg
10) if you opted for the grease hose decide where you want it to go. I feel this hose set up is a design flaw/oversight from Sandcare. The line come straight out the side of the bearing and you can not bend the hose to put it anywhere but out the side of the plastic. A 90 degree options would be nice. I notched the plastic so that I can take the plastic off with out taking the seat out.
20180727_184902.jpg 20180727_171848.jpg

11) start the car of and check everything works right, if so put it all back together and go have some fun!!!!
 

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I occasionally get a clunking or clicking sound when applying the clutch hooks up from a stand still.

The clicking you where experiencing was this the same scenario?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would get the clunking sound but the clicking was at all rpms and sounded like a zip tie was around the drive shaft and the end was wiping or hitting something as it spun around. It would go away for a while and then come back.

Installing the new bearing and not having the large rubber ring around the bearing has helped the drive shaft from being able to move back and forth so much. Hookup is much stronger and it just feels sooooo much more solid.
 

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The install is simple enough however in the two seat version you do not remove the seats and the carrier bearing fit with out trimming. In the four seater that is not the case.

1) Remove the front seats, and the first three access panels on both sides of the car.

2) Remove the nut and bolt from the front drive shaft at the front diff and remove the two bolts holding the carrier bearing down. You will have to pull the two radiator lines out of the way for the passengers side bolt. You will them be able to remove the front drive shaft.
View attachment 218432 View attachment 218434 View attachment 218436

3) remove the snap ring in the forward facing side of the carrier bearing and slide the bearing off the drive shaft.
View attachment 218438

4) use an 11/4 hole saw to cut of the bottom and middle of the plastic where the old carrier bearing bolt was on the passengers side of the car. View attachment 218440 View attachment 218436 View attachment 218442 View attachment 218444

5) bolt the bottom plate down using the new bolts and provided blue locktight. Make sure the logo is facing to the front of the car.
View attachment 218446

6) slide this brass spacer on rear shaft first with the beveled end toward the back of the car. Then slide the new gen3 carrier bearing onto the rear drive shaft and use their new lock ring or the old snap ring. I use the old one as the new one they provide (last picture on this line) was much more a PITA tan I wanted to deal with.
View attachment 218448 View attachment 218450 View attachment 218452

7) slide the front drive shaft onto the rear drive shaft make sure you marks are aliened correctly( blue lines on the drive shaft). Check to make sure that the shafts are phased correctly. If you find that yours are not phased correctly from the factory you can make that change now. My factory lines were off by about 90 degrees from being in phase. There are plenty of threads about this on the forum and show videos on how to do it and what happens if you do not.
View attachment 218454
8) make sure you put the front drive shaft on the front diff at this point before you bolt the carrier bearing to the base. Remember to put the bolt and nut back on the front drive shaft, it is easy to forget about it later.

9) Use the two new bolts and provided blue lock tight to attach the carrier bearing the base plate. In this picture they are the ones that are partially threaded into the bottom of the past plate and into the carrier bearing assembly.
View attachment 218456
10) if you opted for the grease hose decide where you want it to go. I feel this hose set up is a design flaw/oversight from Sandcare as the line come straight out the side of the bearing and so you can not bend the hose to put it anywhere but out the side of the plastic. A 90 degree options would be nice. I notched the plastic so that I can take the plastic off with out taking the seat out.
View attachment 218458 View attachment 218460

11) start the car of and check everything works right, if so put it all back together and go have some fun!!!!
Great write up, great pics too!

Lance, if you happen to see this thread, would be great t o stick it.
 

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Great write up. I do have one question for you. As I was installing mine last night on my max I noticed after I got the “base” of the carrier bearing installed the lower coolant line will not go back into the holder/clip.... did you have the same issue? The lower coolant line hits the carrier bearing bracket


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Discussion Starter #9
No I did not have that issue, Mine snapped right back in, could you have some shavings or plastic that got under the carrier bearing bottom bracket?
I am taking my car out today, I think by lake Pleasant to give it a good work out and make sure everything is working before heading to greens peek next week.

Let me know what you find out and how the bearing works for you. Also did you find that your drive shaft was out of phase?
 

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OK I will double check all that, it was 1 o’clock in the morning when I was trying to do this so I might overlook something LOL I did mark my driveshaft to make sure I put it back the same I’m going to double check to see if it’s out of phase



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Discussion Starter #11
I also marked mine and when I put it back together and checked I was almost 90 degrees out of phase from the factory. When I took the drive shaft apart I found the second green factory mark and it was a good 1/2 inch away from the other green factory mark. I then lined up the two factory green marks and it was even more out of phase?? So I just put it back into phase myself and ignored the marks.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Holly Crap what a difference!!

I do not know if the phasing or the new carrier bearing that moves the drive shaft (prop shaft) into a straight line but it feels like my care just got a 40 HP upgrade. I have been running through the washes at Butcher Jones for a year now. We run wash 1811 so I have plenty of experience in this car, on, in and around this area. I took it out last night for a spin to see if the clicking noise would stay gone or any other issue would show up from the new install.
The hook up coming out of corners and from a dead stand still is awesome!! I mean I still can't stop smiling about it. I though the care would be smother, but not holly crap faster and more responsive. I still can not believe how much better the car drives, and the jerkiness that happens going into revers is almost non existent any more.
Knowing what I know now I would have made this change day one when I first purchased my X3 it is that much of a positive change. From what I have felt and witnessed if you are into performance and want more from your x3 just change the carrier bearing with a Sandcar Motorsports gen3 carrier bearing. And no they did not ask me to post this, I am just stating the facts as I have experienced them. I changed it to get rid of a clicking nose that I did not want to have to pull the shaft apart every six months to lube. Some people are even drilling an tapping the drive shaft so they can put grease in it. I did not put any grease in my drive shaft splines. I only greased the gen3 bearing and all clicking is gone. I can grease this bearing any time I want with out removing anything. I love this be bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Holly Crap what a difference!!

I do not know if the phasing or the new carrier bearing that moves the drive shaft (prop shaft) into a straight line but it feels like my care just got a 40 HP upgrade. I have been running through the washes at Butcher Jones for a year now. We run wash 1811 so I have plenty of experience in this car, on, in and around this area. I took it out last night for a spin to see if the clicking noise would stay gone or any other issue would show up from the new install.
The hook up coming out of corners and from a dead stand still is awesome!! I mean I still can't stop smiling about it. I though the care would be smother, but not holly crap faster and more responsive. I still can not believe how much better the car drives, and the jerkiness that happens going into revers is almost non existent any more.
Knowing what I know now I would have made this change day one when I first purchased my X3 it is that much of a positive change. From what I have felt and witnessed if you are into performance and want more from your x3 just change the carrier bearing with a Sandcar Motorsports gen3 carrier bearing. And no they did not ask me to post this, I am just stating the facts as I have experienced them. I changed it to get rid of a clicking nose that I did not want to have to pull the shaft apart every six months to lube. Some people are even drilling an tapping the drive shaft so they can put grease in it. I did not put any grease in my drive shaft splines. I only greased the gen3 bearing and all clicking is gone. I can grease this bearing any time I want with out removing anything. I love this be bearing.
 

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Awesome, I’m getting ready to go test mine now.. my phasing was 1 “tooth” or spline off. I’m super excited not after reading your post


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Discussion Starter #15
Please let me know if you feel the same way or if mine is just a freak thing. I though at first I was just making it up like when you detail your car and it seems to run better. But the longer I drove the more I knew it was way freaking more responsive and faster, ie power transferred from the motor to the ground was better. How much better???? all my teeth are showing all the time when I'm driving, glad I have a radio with a headset so the bugs hit the mic boom instead of my teeth. Hahaha .
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Great write up, great pics too!

Lance, if you happen to see this thread, would be great t o stick it.
Hollywood thanks for the vote of confidence on the write up.
I was wondering what does it mean to "Stick it" Just trying to educate myself on the forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well I have put a few hundred miles on this car now with the gen3 carrier bearing. The clicking sound is a thing of the past and the hookup is much better than before with the stock carrier bearing. I did not grease the drive shaft where they join together and I will take a straight drive shaft over one that is angled anytime.

Over all assessment is when I get a new can am if the carrier bearing is the same as it is now it will be one of the first things I change out on the car.
 

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I just installed mine this weekend and thankfully found this thread because I have a 4 seater also. So thanks for that! I also couldnt clip in my lower coolant line. It went almost in and then hit. Not sure what thats about but I set it the best I could and used some zipties to keep things in place just in case.
But the sandcraft kit came with the blue threadlocker and a green one. I didn't use the green one and wasn't even sure what it was for.

Can anyone tell me? reading thru the instructions had no mention of it. I also used the old snap ring instead of that weird keyring piece they sent with the kit. Seems to be just fine.
 

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Also want to add that my driveshaft wasn't phased right either. Seemed like 45 degrees off and I corrected it after doing a ton of research on it. Weird how they come like that but I also noticed my rear dif seal has a small leak so I'm gonna end up taking it apart again soon to fix that. Going to use rivnuts on the rear skidplate so this is going to be about a 1/2 day project just to change a seal.
 

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My stock carrier went bad at 2500 miles on my max xds. I replaced it with a sand raft which failed after 200 miles. I lifted the vehicle and turned the wheel by hand and could see the sand craft bearing wobbling back and forth. I realized then that my shaft was slightly out of alignment. After throwing a dial indicator on it...sure enough...it was out. I purchased a brand new shaft, used the dial indicator and yup, it was out. I brought both to a driveline shop in white bear lake, MN. He used one to make a chuck for his machine, then straightened the other. He also recommended using the stock carrier. I couldn’t believe the difference and how smooth it ran. You couldn’t even feel it engage. I highly recommend straightening your shafts!
 
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