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Not sure what I am looking for. Here is the front driveshaft I labeled it how it came out

View attachment 260830
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I can understand vibration but a binding feel in the pedal only? Wouldn't I feel it in the steering wheel or the seat of my pants?
im use to wiring on cars and have felt that in the past, not sure how it would feel in a side x side, not sure if the axles are the same front and rear but if they are you could swap them and see if your vibration/binding happens in 2wd
 

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im use to wiring on cars and have felt that in the past, not sure how it would feel in a side x side, not sure if the axles are the same front and rear but if they are you could swap them and see if your vibration/binding happens in 2wd
Front and rear axles are not the same.


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When you had the drive line outdid you check the u-joint for binding and did you check to see if the phasing was correct?
 

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Rotors look fine brakes are good. Again only issues is when it's in 4x4 mode so I ruled that out but will double check at this point.

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Total pita but, if you can get the whole car in the air... or uncouple the axle cv at the diff and bag it off.

.SO when I do that then what? I'm not following on that part. I would have to pull the upper and low arms/joints off which is fine but bag them and the car would be in the air then what?

SHoot I already had the diff out driveshaft and all the suspension out so to me not a pain now lol
I was thinking you could spin the driveline by hand (with it uncoupled from the rear) and feel for binding. I’d almost put money on it being a cv in those axles. Super messy but you could pull them apart and service them, looking for munched up balls or scars on the cv cups. If the axles are out can you move the ends all over the place without them feeling like it’s binding?

My first thought was with the car up/tires off someone would run it at a low speed and you could try listening for noises, but odds are you wouldn’t be able to hear it over the motor. So I was thinking you’d be able to spin it by hand if most of it was unhooked.

I think you should be able to key on, lock the dif (smart lock won’t lock without pedal input) and spin the front tires (both fronts off the ground) it should spin the other front at the same time.

Is there a part number foe those axles? (Just to double check it’s not rear axles in the front)


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Discussion Starter #67
When you had the drive line outdid you check the u-joint for binding and did you check to see if the phasing was correct?
Yeah, the driveshaft and u joints seemed fine. As far as phasing I could not see the green line on the rear driveshaft until I took out the bearing because I decided to change it out to a Super ATV one with a zerk fitting. Once I had that out I was able to see the green mark on the rear shaft so those are now correctly lined up. Not to say they weren't before but they are now. I hope the driveshaft to the rear diff doesn't have one because that came out but just slid it back on. I haven't tested it yet its to late to drive it around the block I finished up about midnight. Thank you for your time and input


I was thinking you could spin the driveline by hand (with it uncoupled from the rear) and feel for binding. I’d almost put money on it being a cv in those axles. Super messy but you could pull them apart and service them, looking for munched up balls or scars on the cv cups. If the axles are out can you move the ends all over the place without them feeling like it’s binding?

My first thought was with the car up/tires off someone would run it at a low speed and you could try listening for noises, but odds are you wouldn’t be able to hear it over the motor. So I was thinking you’d be able to spin it by hand if most of it was unhooked.

I think you should be able to key on, lock the dif (smart lock won’t lock without pedal input) and spin the front tires (both fronts off the ground) it should spin the other front at the same time.

Is there a part number foe those axles? (Just to double check it’s not rear axles in the front)


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For some reason I thought I could spin the entire driveshaft by hand in park I swear I did it when I checked my buddies. When I had the rear driveshaft out I could not get the front driveshaft to spin on the diff is that normal?
I have not jacked the car up yet to spin the tires I will do that this weekend when I am off. Not sure why I didn't do that today when I was replacing that bearing.

I did pop the end off the cup on the CV on the passenger side axls when I was trying to get it out when I was swapping the dif. I had my buddy put it back in the cup and I looked and all the balls were in it and seemed fine. I have not looked at the other side.

I will check part numbers on those axles to make sure the previous owners installed them correctly. I will update this tomorrow on if the carrier bearing fixed it or not then will update on what you suggested. I work nights so I will do another update this weekend on what you suggested. Thank you for your time and input
 

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If you put a solid block bearing you will have more vibration than before. Satv, sandcraft, or whatever brand will give more vibrations than oem with the rubber


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My front diff wouldn’t spin when I put the shaft back in while doing the carrier bearing. I wonder if the smart lock is usually locked, and unlocks if in 2 wd. I could spin the rear half with it in Neutral but the front required lifting it off the ground to spin. And it wasn’t easy.


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It is normal to have to jack up the front end to turn the diff, the smart lock works like a limited slip to lock left and right axles together, the drive shaft is always turning while driving, this is how we are able to switch between 2-4wd on the fly, in have not tried to turn mine to see how hard/easy it turns
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Sorry for the late reply gents I been working on other things. SO I did replace the carrier bearing and it made no difference. I have to lift it up still and check that before I take it into the shop. I did find something interesting so tell me what you guys think. So I decided to unplug the front smart lok connector to kill power to it so it wont turn on. So when I have acc on and I hit 4x4 I can hear the rear lock and nothing in the front. Which is what I wanted. So I ended up trying one more test and to see if it truly was coming from the front. So I took it out put 4x4 on and IT STILL does it. That means it's not coming from the front correct? You know since technically just the rear is locked and the front is not engaged since I disconnected power to it even though it says 4x4 on the screen. Does that mean it's coming from the rear? This is with both front and rear driveshaft on. Someone was telling me it could be something in the rear that is channeling the vibrations through the drivetrain and I can't feel it with the front out because it has nowhere to go. Hopefully, I can get it on blocks this week, Just been bust but I thought it was interested that with the front diff not powered it does it which to me it's coming from the rear.
 

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The front is spinning weather or not the front differential is engaged, so if there is a problem with your front axles or drivetrain it will always makes the noise, doesn't matter 4x4 engaged or not.
Did you remove the front short drive shaft that attaches to your front diff and goes to your carrier bearing? If you remove it and go test drive that will show you if it's the dry grease noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Yeah I did that earlier see above post and no vibration/binding feeling. Its not a noise it a binding feeling. I put a new bearing in it as someone suggested and no difference, I just figured its odd that it only does it when 4 wheel drive is engaged. I will lift it up and check by hand after that it goes to the shop. I just figured if it was coming from the front with having the front diff smart lok disconnected I could pinpoint it better. I don't know why it only binds in 4x4 and not all the time is 2 whee drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
I have an appointment on the second of next month for this issue. I also unplugged the front diff and made sure that only the rear actuated and the front did not. So I took it for a spin and nothing changed the same thing. I figured if it was coming from the front and me having the diff unhooked it would go away so I think it may be coming from the rear. I tried to get it up on stands but my stands are to small. At this point, I am pretty much done and hopefully, the shop can figure it out. They said if they can they may just come to my house but that's a big maybe. They are intrigued with what is going on and never heard of such a thing. Unfortunately, they are slammed until the 2nd
 

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Yeah I did that earlier see above post and no vibration/binding feeling. Its not a noise it a binding feeling. I put a new bearing in it as someone suggested and no difference, I just figured its odd that it only does it when 4 wheel drive is engaged. I will lift it up and check by hand after that it goes to the shop. I just figured if it was coming from the front with having the front diff smart lok disconnected I could pinpoint it better. I don't know why it only binds in 4x4 and not all the time is 2 whee drive.
It seems to me like you found your problem....:whistle:
No drive-shaft to front differential = no problem
That just means it's clanking at the splines....The 2020 shaft has pinch bolts and fixes the problem all together.

Also 4x4 engage happens in the tranny so when in 2x4 the front wheels traction causes the drive-shaft to spin.

Grease the splines at the u-joint see how it sounds. Simple is always the best fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
I did thought I mentioned that? I have so much grease on it you can't see the splines. I also tried a new shaft off another unit no difference. Did that a few weeks ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
The only thing I have not done is get it on jackstands and rotate it to feel where the bind is coming from
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Just an update which isn't much of one. The shop I been waiting on all this time screwed me over so I have to make an appointment with another shop but they are saying not until December. I did get an alignment done and no help. I also pulled the front and rear driveshaft off and will take it to a driveshaft shop and have them test the balance on it Monday. The U joints look fine. I did lift it but since it was so high I couldn't spin the tires because the axles start binding and my dumb ass didn't think about putting them in a different spot and I gave back the blocks to lift the machine up. So I may do that again later this week, So still at a loss
 
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