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Small metal shavings. The old fluid looked pretty silvery in color vs black
It's normal for the oil to look that way. Sorry to say but when you buy a used differential it's on You to check the oil level change it too. We live and learn its all good.
On my machine I changed all fluids at 100 miles, the front diff oil was silvery with metal fuzz. That's wear from the break in process which is normal. It's important to change fluids in the beginning to get the wear metals out, after that It's much less.
 

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There is my front diff plug. Fluid was changed at 2730 km. I would say that looks pretty normal for a first fluid change after break in. My fluid looked a little silvery as well. Diff still works fine and I not expect to see near that much metal on the next change.

Are you sure you are not feeling a driveline vibration here? Driveshaft? U joint? Hangar bearing?
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It's normal for the oil to look that way. Sorry to say but when you buy a used differential it's on You to check the oil level change it too. We live and learn its all good.
On my machine I changed all fluids at 100 miles, the front diff oil was silvery with metal fuzz. That's wear from the break in process which is normal. It's important to change fluids in the beginning to get the wear metals out, after that It's much less.
Did the dealer ever even check the fluid on PDI you gotta wonder? They never did on mine. There was a sticker over fill hole from the factory. It was never taken off. But it was very close to the fill hole when I checked.

There was also small dabs of silicone on all 4 drain plugs. One way to tell they have never been cracked.
 

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Theres how much came out on my first fluid change. And it was near the fill hole before I drained so it was not low.

That's not much more than 200ml.

As far as your smell, unless you cleaned the living crap out of the skid plate etc like realllly good you will get whiffs of it still. Pretty stinking stuff.
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Did the dealer ever even check the fluid on PDI you gotta wonder? They never did on mine. There was a sticker over fill hole from the factory. It was never taken off. But it was very close to the fill hole when I checked.

There was also small dabs of silicone on all 4 drain plugs. One way to tell they have never been cracked.
On mine it was the same thing a sticker over the fill hole, the fluid and shavings looked very similar. That's the factory fill, the dealer checks engine oil probably and that's about it. Can-am fluids are good quality tho.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
What year machine was the diff from? Sometimes the ring gear bolts can back out. Simple to check by removing and taking apart. If you are worried about it just do that. Don't have anyone around when you are doing it, pay attention and take pictures if necessary. Small metal shavings doesn't mean its destroyed. If the bolts are backing out it can be saved but don't keep driving it.

Its from the stock machine. I meant I bought the X3 used from someone else not a different diff. I will take it apart and check those bolts too
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
There is my front diff plug. Fluid was changed at 2730 km. I would say that looks pretty normal for a first fluid change after break in. My fluid looked a little silvery as well. Diff still works fine and I not expect to see near that much metal on the next change.

Are you sure you are not feeling a driveline vibration here? Driveshaft? U joint? Hangar bearing?
View attachment 260207
Did the dealer ever even check the fluid on PDI you gotta wonder? They never did on mine. There was a sticker over fill hole from the factory. It was never taken off. But it was very close to the fill hole when I checked.

There was also small dabs of silicone on all 4 drain plugs. One way to tell they have never been cracked.
Theres how much came out on my first fluid change. And it was near the fill hole before I drained so it was not low.

That's not much more than 200ml.

As far as your smell, unless you cleaned the living crap out of the skid plate etc like realllly good you will get whiffs of it still. Pretty stinking stuff.
View attachment 260208


I cleaned it off pretty good but I will admit I didn't use brake clean to where you can eat off it. Yeah that looks about the same amount maybe a little less which isn't a lot. I couldn't say if the dealer checked it. I bought the machine used out of state. The diff is the stock one it is not a used one or ever replaced. As far as the metal shavings go yeah mine kinda looked like that but I was able to feel pieces a little bigger than what you are showing but I would say my drain plug looked very similar except some bigger pieces that I could feel and hold a few millimetres in length

Are you sure you are not feeling a driveline vibration here? Driveshaft? U joint? Hangar bearing?


Honestly I could not tell you. Because I am not familiar with all that but I will find all those and check. But wouldn't I feel that all the time and not as soon as I put it in 4x4? It's dead quiet and I feel nothing when its in 2 wheel drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
It's normal for the oil to look that way. Sorry to say but when you buy a used differential it's on You to check the oil level change it too. We live and learn its all good.
On my machine I changed all fluids at 100 miles, the front diff oil was silvery with metal fuzz. That's wear from the break in process which is normal. It's important to change fluids in the beginning to get the wear metals out, after that It's much less.

Sorry the multi quote is giving me issues. it's not a used diff it's the stock oem diff. The machine is used I bought it out of state from a couple. Not the diff. Sorry for the confusion
 

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Discussion Starter #29
let me check on everything you guys suggested and I will work on it in the am and report back tomorrow. Again I really really appreciate the responses gents
 

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Before you go pulling the front suspension and diff out and dismantling it make sure to check the front driveshaft at least. Maybe the axles too but you would likely have other symptoms even in 2wd if it was axels.

Without actaully driving the machine it's hard to know exactly what you are experiencing. Just be careful it's not something much simpler.

Right beside your feet on both sides there are panels that pop off easily. You can get at the driveshaft somewhat from there.

The vibration you are feeling could just be simply a bad U joint under load.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I have Rhino axles and they seem fine all I did was try to pull them up and down and there is no play at all. there is a little side to side but from my understanding that is normal. but I will check that carrier bearing/drive shaft tomorrow. Im done for the night and want to get it off my mind or Ill just obsess over it. Thank again I will report back tomorrow. You guys have a great night
 

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Discussion Starter #33
So the shaft seems fine and the rubber around the bearing seems good too. Here is a video.

Someone else mentioned that on the smart loks that they never heard of them backing out. Here is a quick vid

 

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Grab the driveshaft and pull side to side in relation to the vehicle. See if there is any slop in that U joint.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I did it's solid I went up and down and side to side. I also checked the axles and they had no issues. The U joints look good too. I went ahead and ordered a dif with 10 hours on it. Now to take the old one out. Does anyone have a how-to? Thank you all for your help
 

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For the price yeah go ahead and grab the new/used one. Have a spare at worst.

You will have to remove the suspension on the right hand passenger side. You need to get the upper control arm removed on that side to get the diff out.

Other than that, the diff is held on with 4 bolts underneath, and you obviously have to disconnect the driveshaft. And the 3 plugs that go into the Smart Lock.

Pretty straightforward and simple👍. Couple dudes can do it pretty quick. .
 

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Discussion Starter #37
That's what it looked like from what I saw. Thanks again. I will let you guys know what happens after the install. It should be here on the 15th
 

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My 19 came with the same amount of fluid/color in the front diff. I ended up changing it out 3 times in a week just for my piece of mind. Change, beat on, change, repeat. Did I need to? Probably not but I did anyways.

Tire size. Were not talking 32's in the front and 30's in the back, but essentially as you wear the back tires out this is what you end up with only on a lower scale. When you do donuts, power slide or launch on concrete and such, back tire tread wears a lot faster, back tires become smaller, you only need 1/8"-1/4" to start excessive loading drive lines. Now we also have less font weight and more rear weigh which already puts the tire in this condition from the dealer. Smart lok seems to compensate for most of this, when you go full locker mode, you will really notice it. Rear end is spared from most of it with it being solid but tires are not.

I rotate my tires every 2-3 tanks of fuel (200-300 miles) I've driven high horse power 4x4 and awd vehicles most my life. I've been through a couple rear ends just from mismatched tires. I'm in the same situation with my burban right now. 20k miles on it, tires probably 50% tread. got a non repairable rear tire. So if a put a new tire in the rear my ass end is going to bind the axle and the rear end side ways. If I put it in the front, the front diff will not self lock and will end up burning up the fluid, cracking the diff from the heat, plus bind the hell out of the front. So on items like these (truck), you get 1 flat, you replace all 4 tires. This is on the extreme side, were talking a 5600 lbs truck with more hp at the wheels then the engine put out stock. It stays in awd full time. The awd on the burban is kind of like the smart lok. Power is distributed based off rear and front wheel speeds, which lets my backs crack first and take the initial shock before distributing it to the fronts. Buggy, not as extreme for weight and force.

Now don't be running around thinking the sky falling. I just used a extreme to explain a minimal. These are play toys, not the best fit, quality, or parts. They make noise, have vibrations, and do funny things sometimes. Mine still binds with tire changes on pavement minimally, but goes away in the soft stuff because the tires now have some leeway. So binding is normal and binding wears out drive line parts, specifically every part that was mentioned.
So like everything else in life you got to choose. Should I burn up my tires in the Walmart parking lot in 2 wheel drive to impress the cool kids? Or go easy on pavement, rotate a lot and keep the driveline binding minimal.
Sometimes it’s easier to start with the cause of the issue or at least understand and pay attention to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Yeah I hear you on that. This is the 3rd time I drove it. The suspension is jacked because someone took or the rear radius rods because they thought they could align it with a string. They messed with the front tie rods. Tires look all types of crazy. I have someone lined u to take it to their shop and have it done right
 
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