Mods, you guys may want to consider making this a sticky. I'm sure there's going to be a great deal of info in this thread.
I've started this due to info that has been lingering around a couple different threads and I didn't want to hijack the other threads.
This info does not work with the X3, as I learn that model I will update this post. Ill also update as I continue to learn more.
Can Am Hub Options
-Maverick 27mm hubs
-Maverick 30mm hubs
-Defender 30mm hubs
Aftermarket Hub Options
-PR2 Floater Setup
-PR2 Billet aluminum hubs
The OG Maverick in 2013 came with 27mm hubs and stubs front and rear. The rear CV stub shaft has had some breaking issues over time for racers, hard trail riders and people running larger tires. In 2015 the XDS and XDS Turbo Models started coming with a 30mm CV stub and hub in there rear, bigger is better here. This greatly improved the strength and rear axle failures at the hub drastically reduced, and almost went away. In 2016 the rear upgrade for the 30mm axle and hub became standard on ALL models. Anything made in 2016 has the larger rear stub shaft/axle.
Companies like PR2 have created a floater rear spindle and hub setup in which a much larger wheel bearing is used and a new hub is made which slides inside of the bearing. This allows the hub and bearing to hold all the weight of the vehicle and not the axle shaft. Their new hubs in that kit are solid and have nearly no deflection. Moving on to why this is important.
Brake fade has been an issue for the same types of riders and what we've found it that its mostly due to hub deflection. The hub is flexing and while its doing that the rotor is pushing against the pad and the pad is pushing the pistons in displacing the fluid. Most of the time you can hit the brakes and the pedal nearly goes to the floor or needs to be pumped. This is a result of the hub deflection 9 times out of 10.
In 2016 Can Am released the defender. This utility platform came with some beefed up parts, some of which we can use being the hubs and rotors. A couple problem exist here though. The defender hub holds nearly all the same dimensions as the Maverick hubs with the exception of the rotor bolting pattern. Maverick rotors will not bolt to Defender hubs. Unlike the Maverick the Defender runs 220mm rotors front and REAR. If you want to run the much stronger Defender hub in the rear you must by Defender rotors and then turn the rotors down in a lathe.
Now this is a great setup for the rear. Pretty much the best you can do all around without running the floater setup. But what do you do in the front?????
The front is a different animal all together. Its going to require some work to get the front up to par with the rear. Im going to use our #935 Zemak Motorsports/CT Race Worx 2015 Maverick XDS BITD race car as an example. In the front of out desert car we are running 30mm RCV outer stubs WITH Defender hubs and Defender rotors. This is the ultimate setup for the front. While we have been the test dummies for the RCV axles in the Can Am we have learned a tremendous amount of stuff regarding the front. The stock 30mm rear CV stubs will not physically fit into the front spindles, they are too large, nor will the front axle shafts spline into those CVs. So as of now Im aware of 3 different options that will allow us to get to a 30mm stub axle that will fit in the front spindle.
-RCV's
-Rockford (which is RCV pretty much)
-Turner
RCV axles are the same axles with the orange outer "boot" that the rock bouncers and throttle heavy rock crawlers have been using. While working with RCV on our race car we have a way to run rear inner CVs in the front diff. Go out to your Maverick and pull a tape measure on the rear inner CV at the diff and the front inner CV at the diff. The rears are huge compared to the front. So what does this do? A couple people, mainly the group of riders I've mentioned above have had issues breaking the stub of the inner CV off in the diff. This large housing, paired with a much stronger material nearly eliminates that all together. We more or less run the same CVs front and rear on our desert car, just the stubs on the inner side are splined different to fit in the different diffs, being the rear, right front and left front. These guys are pricey at over 700 an axle for our application. These axles also use a grease fitting on the outer CV stub to pump grease right into the CV. The orange cups/boots throw a little grease out and are also not water tight.
Rockford axles, I honestly don't know much about these axles but i know they are different than the RCVs but they do exist. Some people I race with use them.
Turner axles front outer CVs that will go onto the stock axles and will have a 30mm spline on them to accept the Defender hub in the front. This paired on a fresh set of 2016 XMR front axles is about the most reasonably priced option to have a strong front axle setup. The XMR axles are not a must but as of now they are the strongest front axle option available for all of the models except the XXC.
Any of these options paired will gain you strength, reliability and better brakes.
If you have any questions please let me know so i can add info or reword some of this stuff. As always im sure I've forgotten stuff but like I said Ill continue to work on this. If its not made a sticky ill move this to my CT Race Worx Vendor section so its easily found.
I've started this due to info that has been lingering around a couple different threads and I didn't want to hijack the other threads.
This info does not work with the X3, as I learn that model I will update this post. Ill also update as I continue to learn more.
Can Am Hub Options
-Maverick 27mm hubs
-Maverick 30mm hubs
-Defender 30mm hubs
Aftermarket Hub Options
-PR2 Floater Setup
-PR2 Billet aluminum hubs
The OG Maverick in 2013 came with 27mm hubs and stubs front and rear. The rear CV stub shaft has had some breaking issues over time for racers, hard trail riders and people running larger tires. In 2015 the XDS and XDS Turbo Models started coming with a 30mm CV stub and hub in there rear, bigger is better here. This greatly improved the strength and rear axle failures at the hub drastically reduced, and almost went away. In 2016 the rear upgrade for the 30mm axle and hub became standard on ALL models. Anything made in 2016 has the larger rear stub shaft/axle.
Companies like PR2 have created a floater rear spindle and hub setup in which a much larger wheel bearing is used and a new hub is made which slides inside of the bearing. This allows the hub and bearing to hold all the weight of the vehicle and not the axle shaft. Their new hubs in that kit are solid and have nearly no deflection. Moving on to why this is important.
Brake fade has been an issue for the same types of riders and what we've found it that its mostly due to hub deflection. The hub is flexing and while its doing that the rotor is pushing against the pad and the pad is pushing the pistons in displacing the fluid. Most of the time you can hit the brakes and the pedal nearly goes to the floor or needs to be pumped. This is a result of the hub deflection 9 times out of 10.
In 2016 Can Am released the defender. This utility platform came with some beefed up parts, some of which we can use being the hubs and rotors. A couple problem exist here though. The defender hub holds nearly all the same dimensions as the Maverick hubs with the exception of the rotor bolting pattern. Maverick rotors will not bolt to Defender hubs. Unlike the Maverick the Defender runs 220mm rotors front and REAR. If you want to run the much stronger Defender hub in the rear you must by Defender rotors and then turn the rotors down in a lathe.
Now this is a great setup for the rear. Pretty much the best you can do all around without running the floater setup. But what do you do in the front?????
The front is a different animal all together. Its going to require some work to get the front up to par with the rear. Im going to use our #935 Zemak Motorsports/CT Race Worx 2015 Maverick XDS BITD race car as an example. In the front of out desert car we are running 30mm RCV outer stubs WITH Defender hubs and Defender rotors. This is the ultimate setup for the front. While we have been the test dummies for the RCV axles in the Can Am we have learned a tremendous amount of stuff regarding the front. The stock 30mm rear CV stubs will not physically fit into the front spindles, they are too large, nor will the front axle shafts spline into those CVs. So as of now Im aware of 3 different options that will allow us to get to a 30mm stub axle that will fit in the front spindle.
-RCV's
-Rockford (which is RCV pretty much)
-Turner
RCV axles are the same axles with the orange outer "boot" that the rock bouncers and throttle heavy rock crawlers have been using. While working with RCV on our race car we have a way to run rear inner CVs in the front diff. Go out to your Maverick and pull a tape measure on the rear inner CV at the diff and the front inner CV at the diff. The rears are huge compared to the front. So what does this do? A couple people, mainly the group of riders I've mentioned above have had issues breaking the stub of the inner CV off in the diff. This large housing, paired with a much stronger material nearly eliminates that all together. We more or less run the same CVs front and rear on our desert car, just the stubs on the inner side are splined different to fit in the different diffs, being the rear, right front and left front. These guys are pricey at over 700 an axle for our application. These axles also use a grease fitting on the outer CV stub to pump grease right into the CV. The orange cups/boots throw a little grease out and are also not water tight.
Rockford axles, I honestly don't know much about these axles but i know they are different than the RCVs but they do exist. Some people I race with use them.
Turner axles front outer CVs that will go onto the stock axles and will have a 30mm spline on them to accept the Defender hub in the front. This paired on a fresh set of 2016 XMR front axles is about the most reasonably priced option to have a strong front axle setup. The XMR axles are not a must but as of now they are the strongest front axle option available for all of the models except the XXC.
Any of these options paired will gain you strength, reliability and better brakes.
If you have any questions please let me know so i can add info or reword some of this stuff. As always im sure I've forgotten stuff but like I said Ill continue to work on this. If its not made a sticky ill move this to my CT Race Worx Vendor section so its easily found.
