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Unfortunately some of you are only looking at the sensor. The ECU still has to be reset and other values cleared and some other stuff re-calibrated. I don't know all the other details but this ECU is more complicated then I initially thought and evidently if you don't have a BUDDs computer you can't do it.
I am trying to wrap my head around what you are saying....I understand how the sensors work and how the ECU adjusts the fuel map and timing based on the various sensor inputs but what I can't understand is why you would need to reflash anything if the sensor was cleaned and operating as it used to.....the ECU should just compensate to the new values accordingly. The way you are describing it, you make it sound like the ECU somehow rewrote some of the parameter data based on the bad sensor output. I'm not sure how that is possible......The only thing I can think of is after the sensor was cleaned, the ECU doesn't instantly revert back to the default values similar to your modern day car where it requires X amount of run cycles before it will internally clear certain fault codes and default back to the original settings. I wonder if they went in and cleared the data bank so it would default back to the original values and this is what you are saying when you say it had to be re-calibrated.......I wonder if disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes would have done the same thing.....sorry, I am just thinking out loud :big smile:
 

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I am trying to wrap my head around what you are saying....I understand how the sensors work and how the ECU adjusts the fuel map and timing based on the various sensor inputs but what I can't understand is why you would need to reflash anything if the sensor was cleaned and operating as it used to.....the ECU should just compensate to the new values accordingly. The way you are describing it, you make it sound like the ECU somehow rewrote some of the parameter data based on the bad sensor output. I'm not sure how that is possible......The only thing I can think of is after the sensor was cleaned, the ECU doesn't instantly revert back to the default values similar to your modern day car where it requires X amount of run cycles before it will internally clear certain fault codes and default back to the original settings. I wonder if they went in and cleared the data bank so it would default back to the original values and this is what you are saying when you say it had to be re-calibrated.......I wonder if disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes would have done the same thing.....sorry, I am just thinking out loud :big smile:
Sorry but I can't possible explain it any better than what I already have because I don't understand how the ECU works completely on the mav and what the intake sensor does in relation to the ECU. I do know that the ECU with certain sensors definitely will cut power to this motor. In Glamis when I got some questionable gas my Knock sensor kicked in and cut power to the point that the car wouldn't run more than 7500 rpms and no faster than 50 mphs. When I added some 110 fuel and re-ran the car ran fine. Our ECU is constantly getting inputs from some of these sensors and making adjustments across the board. Fernando at Del Amo tried to explain how it works but other than the TBS recalibration and reset of the ECU, I forgot all the other stuff.
 

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Sorry but I can't possible explain it any better than what I already have because I don't understand how the ECU works completely on the mav and what the intake sensor does in relation to the ECU. I do know that the ECU with certain sensors definitely will cut power to this motor. In Glamis when I got some questionable gas my Knock sensor kicked in and cut power to the point that the car wouldn't run more than 7500 rpms and no faster than 50 mphs. When I added some 110 fuel and re-ran the car ran fine. Our ECU is constantly getting inputs from some of these sensors and making adjustments across the board. Fernando at Del Amo tried to explain how it works but other than the TBS recalibration and reset of the ECU, I forgot all the other stuff.
haha...no worries....I wasn't doubting what you were saying. I just work in the electronics industry and it intrigues me how all of this stuff works together. It sounds complicated but when it is broken down, it is rather simple to understand how everything functions in the system.
 

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This is real good info to keep in the back of my head in case I ever experience any of these symptoms. Thanks for all the write up and keeping us up to date on what happened and the outcome. Glad you got it all worked out.
 

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Took mine around the block for the first time Saturday and I hit 8K rpm and was running about 75mph
 

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Makes sense.. All that goopy oil that was on my post filter was all over my intake track. I'm sure it's all over my MASs.. Thanks USAguy
 

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Never said anything about replacing a sensor, said cleaning it and resetting the Values In the ecu with the budds system. If the popo had things like knock sensor n other safety sensors maybe they could build motors that dont blow up
There are no sensor values to be reset in BUDS, unless you mean the TPS.
 

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well just got my mav and at 7.5 hours it pulls about 7700 then fades to like 7400 one thing I know about cvt clutching is there's a lot of variables such as spring wear or sack ,elevation is huge my redline revolt ran 7800 at 4000 feet and 8100 at sea-level and then there belt wear you would be amazed what a new belt will do . as far as rpm is concerned there a couple options the stiffer spring is good and then there primary weights, lighter weights more rpm . so my plan is the Dalton clutch kit because it has primary adjustment so you can tune for were you ride .one thing I have not seen is a helix option for the stock secondary . because a multi angle helix would also fix the mid range clutch bog , im good friends with tom Hartman of Hartman inc. ill talk to him but it sounds like Dalton has the kit for me . on sleds we always try and tune with a fresh belt right after break in with clean clutches ,comet clutch makes a clutch spray that works well a little lube on the rollers and sliders works good, and once your dialed any fade is usually wear. good luck still learning these canam clutches my self just telling what I have learned in the past!!
 

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Not so sure I would lube anything in the drive clutch. The old days of lubing the rollers and ramps are long gone.
 

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Just got my sport low installed and mine hits 8050 but can deffantly feel the ecu take throtle away.
One thing I am haveing a hard time believing is that I cant see why with all the advancements in electronics why any recallibrations would be needed if dirty sensor. I have seen things like this on older systems my son has a 99 vw passat that has had TB settings recallibrated after killing the battery dead dead. But what blows me away that's 14 years old I would think new set ups have worked all that caveman stuff out of them. Ecus have come along ways in the last decade or have they?
 

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Have two mavericks here doing the same thing as all u guys in this thread! Man that was alot of reading but lots of good info! Going to drop both machines off a dealership and see if they can fix the issue! Both mavericks are only seeing 7600 rpm at sea level and sometimes drops to 7300rpm!
 

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Was around 7550 rpms until shift out with 30 inch blackwater At 3000ft But I ground my stock weights down by 1 gram a piece and now I'm at 8000 to 8050rpms it Runs great now


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My 16 XRS Turbo just started doing this the other day. Only 150 miles and almost 11 hrs on it. I did install a low over ride harness in it. I'm going to remove it, just to make sure it's not doing it. Then back to the dealer.
 

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You should be shooting for is 7900 RPM. 8050 RPM is when your on the rev-limiter and it won't go any faster. I was there, Adam got me a different spring for my primary and boom, worked grate picked up 5mph. shoe
 
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