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Will a car battery setup fix this issue

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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys, I'm new to the maverick world! I picked up a low mileage maverick xds turbo. Amazing machine but after riding or even running idle for a long period of time (40min +) the machine acts like the battery is dead and will hardly roll over, let it sit 20 minutes, maybe longer and it fires up, pretty sketchy back the woods. I just installed a new battery from can am and it didnt solve the problem. Bike is always left on a trickle charge and in heated garage. Has any one ever had this issue and would switching to a bigger battery work? If so the EMP relocation kit hold a car size battery under the hood, would that fix the issue? Or maybe supply the starter with power directly somehow? I'm totally lost, local can am dealer say they never seen the issue which I know is BS.

THANKS GUYS!!
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I disagree that your issue is typical. If you have a known good battery that is fully charged and all the other components are working properly you should not have this issue. Over 5400 miles on my car and never had this problem and I’m still on the original battery!

That being said, in order for you to figure out what the problem is we look at it from your post. When the car is cold it starts and runs just fine. Only after the car has been running and comes up to operating temperature you have the problem. This is telling me the issue is heat related. From experience I would be looking at the starter itself. The only way I know to test it on the vehicle is to do an amp draw test. Typically the starters will draw about 250-300 amps so if yours is drawing more then the starter is your problem. If you are not sure how to do the test properly or don’t have a reliable means (equipment) to do the test, find someone local who can. Often times the windings or brushes inside the starter break down, causing high resistance. This resistance causes the high amp draw that your battery cannot overcome. Putting in a bigger battery is just a band-aid at this point.

This advice is predicated on a few things. First, you have not made mods to the engine and have the factory tune. Second, you have properly inspected and verified the wiring from the battery to the starter solenoid to the starter and the wires are tight and not corroded, etc. Third, you have inspected and verified that the battery and associated chassis grounds are clean and tight, with no corrosion, etc.

In rare instances, the starter solenoid can be the culprit and is much cheaper to replace than a starter. If you happen to have a buddy that would be willing to loan you his solenoid for testing purposes after you have checked everything else try that but what you are experiencing is not to be considered normal in my opinion. Good luck and let us know what you find.
 

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I disagree that your issue is typical. If you have a known good battery that is fully charged and all the other components are working properly you should not have this issue. Over 5400 miles on my car and never had this problem and I’m still on the original battery!

That being said, in order for you to figure out what the problem is we look at it from your post. When the car is cold it starts and runs just fine. Only after the car has been running and comes up to operating temperature you have the problem. This is telling me the issue is heat related. From experience I would be looking at the starter itself. The only way I know to test it on the vehicle is to do an amp draw test. Typically the starters will draw about 250-300 amps so if yours is drawing more then the starter is your problem. If you are not sure how to do the test properly or don’t have a reliable means (equipment) to do the test, find someone local who can. Often times the windings or brushes inside the starter break down, causing high resistance. This resistance causes the high amp draw that your battery cannot overcome. Putting in a bigger battery is just a band-aid at this point.

This advice is predicated on a few things. First, you have not made mods to the engine and have the factory tune. Second, you have properly inspected and verified the wiring from the battery to the starter solenoid to the starter and the wires are tight and not corroded, etc. Third, you have inspected and verified that the battery and associated chassis grounds are clean and tight, with no corrosion, etc.

In rare instances, the starter solenoid can be the culprit and is much cheaper to replace than a starter. If you happen to have a buddy that would be willing to loan you his solenoid for testing purposes after you have checked everything else try that but what you are experiencing is not to be considered normal in my opinion. Good luck and let us know what you find.
I disagree, He has a different twin cylinder motor that has higher compression than the X3 platform 3 cylinder.
 

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I disagree that your issue is typical. If you have a known good battery that is fully charged and all the other components are working properly you should not have this issue. Over 5400 miles on my car and never had this problem and I’m still on the original battery!

That being said, in order for you to figure out what the problem is we look at it from your post. When the car is cold it starts and runs just fine. Only after the car has been running and comes up to operating temperature you have the problem. This is telling me the issue is heat related. From experience I would be looking at the starter itself. The only way I know to test it on the vehicle is to do an amp draw test. Typically the starters will draw about 250-300 amps so if yours is drawing more then the starter is your problem. If you are not sure how to do the test properly or don’t have a reliable means (equipment) to do the test, find someone local who can. Often times the windings or brushes inside the starter break down, causing high resistance. This resistance causes the high amp draw that your battery cannot overcome. Putting in a bigger battery is just a band-aid at this point.

This advice is predicated on a few things. First, you have not made mods to the engine and have the factory tune. Second, you have properly inspected and verified the wiring from the battery to the starter solenoid to the starter and the wires are tight and not corroded, etc. Third, you have inspected and verified that the battery and associated chassis grounds are clean and tight, with no corrosion, etc.

In rare instances, the starter solenoid can be the culprit and is much cheaper to replace than a starter. If you happen to have a buddy that would be willing to loan you his solenoid for testing purposes after you have checked everything else try that but what you are experiencing is not to be considered normal in my opinion. Good luck and let us know what you find.
No. These motors hard start, especially when hot. They always have. Always will. But they WILL start. Nature of the beast...


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Mine would not start a lot of times. I did a 24v start for races and I just use it when the bike does not want to start. Supposedly there was an updated starter that can am used under warranty.
 

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Well there you go. Sounds like the problem is the starter and the fix is a higher torque starter motor that is either available from BRP or I bet there is an aftermarket upgrade available.
 

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Well there you go. Sounds like the problem is the starter and the fix is a higher torque starter motor that is either available from BRP or I bet there is an aftermarket upgrade available.
If they do I’ve read ZERO about it. You’d think it be a popular subject since this is a common issue on these vehicles. The answer is it’s not a “problem” in BRPs mind because they haven’t made an updated starter nor pointed a finger at “problematic starters”. Like I said, it’s the nature of this beast.


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Maybe there’s a company near you that specializes in electric motor and starter repair that could modify it internally for you? Might be worth looking into
 
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