[Jsmith]

Just to get this out of the way I will be posting pics asap. Here's the deal. I unloaded my bad ass Maverick and continued to completely destroy my pasture for about an hour and a half. We then load up and go to the local strip pits to put some break in miles on it. No sooner tha I unload it an go about 20 yards, I hear a bang and loud grinding noise. I then commence to pick up two handfulls of my clutch and cover assembly. It blew pieces all over the trail. There is about a 6 inch retaining bolt that snapped and let everything come out the bottom. Has anyone heard of or experienced this? First day, $18,000. Destroyed.:disappointed:

 

[Johnny]

Sorry to hear that ... hope they get ya fixed up fast

 

[desertdog]

Damn, that sucks!, small amount of good news tho, should be handled by warranty. better to happen before than after expiration.

 

[Jsmith]

Hope that worked

 

[Johnny]

Holy Carnage

 

[Megadesertdiesel]

Welcome to the broken maverick club. Get it to the dealer and call brp and get a case number. Then start calling every few days to keep the ball rolling.

 

[Madmav]

I seen pics of the samething on a maverick about 2 weeks ago, I hope this does not become commen

 

[RTB]

Seems to be a trend developing with the Primary clutch bolt on the Maverick. I hope they have this taken care of on the second wave of units. If not I will be putting my QSC primary on from my renegade 1000 right off the bat.

 

[RTB]

Parts book says M12x146. The stock bolt appears to be necked down on the shaft portion that failed in this photo. Perhaps a normal M12x146 bolt could be substituted for added strength. My QSC clutch for my renegade was supplied with what appeared to be an "out of the bin" bolt.

 

[Jsmith]

The bolt that snapped was a Grade 13.9. That is a very high tensile strength bolt. I work on CAT Equipment and never see this damage on something that is designed or tested properly.

 

[RTB]

Grade 13.9 don't mean sh*t if the guy making the bolts that day was hung over. You bought one of the first couple hundred units of a brand new design. Don't tell me you don't expect a few issues. I have a lot of experience with Caterpillar equipment and they have had there fair share of issues over the years so don't bother trying to whitewash us when it comes to the reliability of new designs.

High tensile or not, the bolt either needs to be stronger (i.e.: not necked down as I suggested) or not torqued to as high of a spec. Did you come here looking for solutions or just to bit*h?

 

[Jsmith]

Your just talkin sh*t? No kiddin It doesn't need to be necked down. That is an immediate stress riser in the bolt. Besides that, I think I have the right to B*tch. I did expect a couple of imperfections, Not a catastrophic failure with less that 2 hours on a $18,000 rig.

 

[usaguy]

The commanders had similar issues with bolts backing out. Most were caused by someone (dealer prep/factory) not torquing the clutch parts down properly. Unfortunately this machine has to be put together by someone and not everyone is qualified or capable of doing the job like it is there life on the line. I just found that my machine doesn't have the correct rev for the ECU so I don't have a true sport mode and that is why the machine down shifts at 50 mphs and slowly climbs to 74 mph. The dealer was responsible for this update. My problem isn't anything like yours but still just another mistake.

 

[RTB]

Sorry I know it sucks. Hard to feel that bad for you when we can't even get a maverick for at least another month. You had something go bad and I appreciate that you posted about it because now I know what I need to look at before I drive mine when I do get it.....

 

[Jsmith]

Where u from? The bad thing is that it isn't something u can check. Well I'm sure u can remove the bolt and check it for stress fractures. fatigue, or streching, but I think that it's just not the proper bolt for the job, especially if this has happened several times. The bolt wasn't loose. To make things worse, I took it to the dealer that day and asked him if there was an updated part and he said "no". he said that this happened on another machine as soon as they started it upon setup. They just put another one of the same bolts back in it and let it go. That is not a fix in my book.

 

[desertdog]

Sad thing is, we'll all have to wait & see if more units have this same failure. If it is only a hand full of units,they probably wont do anything about it, but if more units have this failure, we'll get a recall. Then next yrs model will be upgraded.

 

[Jsmith]

Well, I figured there would be issues so I bought the 6 year warranty. To bad this happened the first day. To make things worse, I had to get pulled back to the trailer by a RZR that I was sh*t talkin to earlier that day.

 

[///AIRDAM]

actually guys..... that bolt IS MADE to stretch, it is a tension bolt, meant to torque to a certain value, and provide tension to hold the outer half of the clutch to the inner half of the clutch. the reason your bolt broke is because the outer half of the clutch was spinning and slipping under the bolt, which ended up tightening the bolt tighter and tighter untill the bolt had stretched to its max, and snapped the bolt. we used to see this alot on the older CAN-AMs which had the aluminum spyder. the aluminum spyder slipped alot against the steel inner shaft when you put alot of power to it. this made the outer half spin and tighten the bolt untill the bolt stretches to its max and snaps. BRP tried to remedy this on the maverick by implementing a steel outer tapered sleeve into the aluminum spyder. the steel on steel taper fits and sticks much better than the steel on aluminum like the other bikes. even though these two steel tapers SHOULD stick permanantley and keep the clutches from slipping, they do not, and the result is that the clutch still slips like the older setups, and stretches the bolts untill they break.


BRP cuts the middle of the aluminum spyder out and rivets in a steel sleeve that has a steel taper

this steel taper fits against a steel female taper (and slips)

here is what the bolt looks like after it stretches

here is the fix (more like a band-aid) to help keep the bolt from breaking. running a big stud that is not necked down. but the clutch will still slip, and tighten the bolt, regardless of what bolt you run. thats why replacing the stock primary was so popular on the commanders and ATVs. you almost HAD to replace the clutch just to get a good day of riding in. the maverick clutch is doctored up better, and will last longer, but still suffers from the same things the commanders clutch did

 

[warlock]

actually guys..... that bolt IS MADE to stretch, it is a tension bolt, meant to torque to a certain value, and provide tension to hold the outer half of the clutch to the inner half of the clutch. the reason your bolt broke is because the outer half of the clutch was spinning and slipping under the bolt, which ended up tightening the bolt tighter and tighter untill the bolt had stretched to its max, and snapped the bolt. we used to see this alot on the older CAN-AMs which had the aluminum spyder. the aluminum spyder slipped alot against the steel inner shaft when you put alot of power to it. this made the outer half spin and tighten the bolt untill the bolt stretches to its max and snaps. BRP tried to remedy this on the maverick by implementing a steel outer tapered sleeve into the aluminum spyder. the steel on steel taper fits and sticks much better than the steel on aluminum like the other bikes. even though these two steel tapers SHOULD stick permanantley and keep the clutches from slipping, they do not, and the result is that the clutch still slips like the older setups, and stretches the bolts untill they break.


BRP cuts the middle of the aluminum spyder out and rivets in a steel sleeve that has a steel taper

this steel taper fits against a steel female taper (and slips)

here is what the bolt looks like after it stretches

here is the fix (more like a band-aid) to help keep the bolt from breaking. running a big stud that is not necked down. but the clutch will still slip, and tighten the bolt, regardless of what bolt you run. thats why replacing the stock primary was so popular on the commanders and ATVs. you almost HAD to replace the clutch just to get a good day of riding in. the maverick clutch is doctored up better, and will last longer, but still suffers from the same things the commanders clutch did

God that stupid Taper just continues to be a problem. When I Turboed my 800 Rotax that little Bastard slipped like crazy and I went out and Bought the STM clutches and solved that problem. I wonder if the STM clutches from my Rotax 800 will work on the Maverick.

 

[RTB]

Are you working on a replacement primary for the Maverick Adam? I have heard the Trail Bloc will not work properly with this kind of power? (over-rev on take off)

I have been running a QSC primary on my renegade 1000 and could not be happier.

I would imagine adding some loc-tite to the bolt would also help prevent it from tightening?