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I have replaced three belts in 2105 miles! The reason for replacement is jerky low speed launch. The new belt always has corrected that symptom. The replaced belts are like new condition except for the glazed sides. I now am faced with the prospect of replacing another (this one only has 50 miles). I have been attentive to proper break in procedures. I wonder if there is a benefit to sanding the belt sides or pulley?
 

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There have been reports that the CV tech clutch comes with a lightly sanded pulley to help with belt grip. Part of the problem is the stock clutch is designed to have belt slippage, which is what causes the glazing on the sides. Lightly scuffing the side may help but it may also wear the belt out faster. The jerky low speed take off can also be caused by belt tension too loose
 

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That's the other part of this damn recall we are all waiting on parts for. they are supposed to rough up the primary and secondary.
 

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That's the other part of this damn recall we are all waiting on parts for. they are supposed to rough up the primary and secondary.
Speak for your self. I am not waiting for any clutch recall work to be done. I moved past that whole issue.
 

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I have replaced three belts in 2105 miles! The reason for replacement is jerky low speed launch. The new belt always has corrected that symptom. The replaced belts are like new condition except for the glazed sides. I now am faced with the prospect of replacing another (this one only has 50 miles). I have been attentive to proper break in procedures. I wonder if there is a benefit to sanding the belt sides or pulley?

Deferring to my many years of experience with CVT systems on snowmobiles here....but typically when you have a jerky engagement it is due to 2 main reasons. First being the most probable and most common. The belts stretch slightly after break-in. This results in the belt tension being too loose and allows the belt to lay higher on the primary sheaves when not engaged. This results in the primary shifting and the belt not engaging immediately resulting in a jerking motion. Second is belt side wall thickness wear. You should always measure the side wall thickness of your belts to ensure you are in spec. As long as the belt is still within spec, you should be able to adjust the secondary to allow the belt to ride in the correct location and provide the corect belt tension.

Throwing a new belt in will usually correct this issue but may not be neccesary if the original belt is still within spec and you can adjust the secondary to achieve the proper belt hight and tension.
 

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I don't have the service manual for the Maverick yet but it will be covered in there…..
 

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They aint no adjustment on the cvt belt tension, I have 2,600 miles on my original belt with no problems, I guess it just depends on the type of terrain you ride has a big impact on the belt life.
 

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How do you adjust the belt tension?
I dont know about the Can-Am secondary adjustment, but my Kawi and aftermarket secondary were adjusted using shims
 

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My skidoo had secondary adjustments to keep the bottom of the belt cogs right at the edge of the secondary as long as the belt width was in tolerance. On the Mavericks, I couldn't find any adjustment features. I looked in the service manual and it doesn't mention anything either. At least I couldn't find it. Doesn't seem right.
 

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The stock secondary is not adjustable for belt tension manually, it has the ability to take up all the slack you can throw at it to a point, this is the reason it engine breaks so well it will pull the belt tight against the oneway in the primary unlike the STM when the primary releases. Proof is putting a QSC or CV Tech with a smaller oneway on you now would have tons of slack but the stock secondary takes care of it for you. The stock secondary will take up enough slack the cogs on the inside of the belt will almost go to the top of the sheave, these are different from sled clutches that need slack to keep from creeping or squealing the belt that's why the oneway is there. I never understood all the talk about a glazed belt? Kick me in the nuts and call me retarded but the belts constantly slip in a CV transmission they all have a shiny metalic look to them after being run no matter what you do. The slip is excessive when they leave rubber behind on the sheaves or when heat generation is high. They are junk when they wear a groove in them, pull a cord, seperate, cracked, width is worn down, besides breakdown heat damage. The jerkyness is the stock primary, proof is putting on a new aftermarket primary using the old "Jerky belt" guess what if there's no groove worn in it from powerbraking, or binding up the drivetrain the old belt will not be jerky with your new primary. The reason the new belt doesn't jerk on the pos stock primary is it's not worn in yet and slips more. The stock one way is pretty big therefore the starting gear is higher dropping engine rpm a little on engagement causing the clutch to basically bounce on/off engagement slightly until some momentum is gained.
 

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well said!
 

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Ok. Well my secondary is definitely not putting the bottom of the cog right at the edge of the secondary. My belt measures 30.6mm at the cord level so by my estimates my belt is at about half life. I don't think my secondary is working 100%.
 

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I was saying it has the ability to close that far not that it's going actually be like that. Stock clutching components belt height in the secondary should not concern you it's not adjustable anyways. The bottom of the cogs on the top of the belt will be roughly flush with the top of the secondary. My QSC primary with the stock secondary the belt is up high enough the cord is visible, what I was getting at is the stock secondary takes care of the belt tension for you and it has the ability to close almost far enough to push the belt high enough out of the secondary the inside cogs are visible.
 

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I understand what you're saying. Maybe my belt when new was positioned right in the secondary and as the belt wears it sinks just due to limitation of my secondary and reduced belt width. I do know my belt was positioned higher when I first bought the Mav.
 

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The bottom of the cogs on the top of the belt will be roughly flush with the top of the secondary. My QSC primary with the stock secondary the belt is up high enough the cord is visible, what I was getting at is the stock secondary takes care of the belt tension for you and it has the ability to close almost far enough to push the belt high enough out of the secondary the inside cogs are visible.
This is exactly how mine is sitting with a QSC & STM secondary
 

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That's the other part of this damn recall we are all waiting on parts for. they are supposed to rough up the primary and secondary.
First I've heard about the recall roughing up the primary and secondary. Is that posted on the recall paperwork somewhere?
 

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Have you lost some top speed? Usually thats the first thing most people notice when the width is worn.
 

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I can't say because I just got over the 10 hour mark so I haven't pushed it hard enough and had enough pavement to check.
 
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