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I've decided to get an alignment from a shop tomorrow. I originally did it myself after replacing UCA, LCA, Tie Rods, Radius Rods, etc. My steering wheels is still slightly off, a little pulling, and a slight wobble (more on this below).

But now that I made it street legal and spending a lot of time in UT and AZ I wanted to get a full alignment for better on-road behavior.

Since they work in degrees not inches, anything I should request or tell them I want on these machines? Everything I've read up on so far says about 1/4" toe in for the front? But what about camber and toe for the rear and what is that in degrees?

In the rear I have the ZRP high clearance radius rods, It looks like Camber is an easy adjustment similar to he tie rods, but for Toe it looks like it has to be removed on the plate side, adjust the heim joint, reinstall, and check. Is that correct?

Lastly, when on the road there is a very noticeable "wobble", as if it feels like I have an oval tire. This is even at slower speeds so it's not a tire balancing issue. Would an incorrect alignment have potential to cause this effect? There are only 200 miles on the car so far so it's still relatively new. (2020 X3 XRC RR)
 

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Ugh, you have a Offroad car you are trying g to make it behave like a road car. It will never be perfect. One bump and one rock that takes a chunk of tire off and you wasted your time and money.

you said it’s NOT a tire balance issue. I call bs,Tires driven in dirt and rocks get chunked up and don’t stay even and round. Offroad tires for sure don’t have the steel belts in them like a car to hold them all together while sitting and easily get flat spots.

then what about all your bushings? From arms to shocks to swaybars there is a lot of places to have wear and become sloppy.

Hey it’s you money but aligning an off-road vehicle to the degree you want is throwing money away in my opinion.

just wrap a string around the outside of the tires and adjust to the string and call it good. I bet by your next ride you will have to do it again.
 

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Ugh, you have a Offroad car you are trying g to make it behave like a road car. It will never be perfect. One bump and one rock that takes a chunk of tire off and you wasted your time and money.

you said it’s NOT a tire balance issue. I call bs,Tires driven in dirt and rocks get chunked up and don’t stay even and round. Offroad tires for sure don’t have the steel belts in them like a car to hold them all together while sitting and easily get flat spots.

then what about all your bushings? From arms to shocks to swaybars there is a lot of places to have wear and become sloppy.

Hey it’s you money but aligning an off-road vehicle to the degree you want is throwing money away in my opinion.

just wrap a string around the outside of the tires and adjust to the string and call it good. I bet by your next ride you will have to do it again.
I know it'll never be perfect, and won't stay that way as well but my current location in AZ I'm planning on being on the road more to get to the trails (living in a toy hauler so can't trailer it to trails). I guess I'm also curious to see the difference in the shops alignment vs mine. I'm realigning it myself with string/tape measure today then can compare that to theirs tomorrow.

You have some good points on the tire balancing with tires getting beat up, but I did all my mods with only 5 miles on the car and it's always felt that way, so this was before it had even been on trails to get beat up. But if it got a flat spot from sitting then that could be a possibility.

Bushings, I'm going to assume they are good based that it's felt this way even when new new after I installed all the new parts. I also did all the recommended gusset/double shear upgrades day 1 as well. Sway bars links were upgraded but swaybars themselves are stock.
 

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Go over every nut and bolt. You probably have a loose bolt. My 2020 can't keep a bolt torqued. Have slop in the wheel hub/bearing. Won't go away. They aren't well built. Sloppy machine work, fit and finish.
 

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Go over every nut and bolt. You probably have a loose bolt. My 2020 can't keep a bolt torqued. Have slop in the wheel hub/bearing. Won't go away. They aren't well built. Sloppy machine work, fit and finish.
Thanks, I “think” they are good right now, I did all the upgrades myself and rechecked everything (with a torque wrench) recently when I removed the hubs to grease them and everything was still good. But yeah loose bolts can definitely cause issues
 

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I know it'll never be perfect, and won't stay that way as well but my current location in AZ I'm planning on being on the road more to get to the trails (living in a toy hauler so can't trailer it to trails). I guess I'm also curious to see the difference in the shops alignment vs mine. I'm realigning it myself with string/tape measure today then can compare that to theirs tomorrow.

You have some good points on the tire balancing with tires getting beat up, but I did all my mods with only 5 miles on the car and it's always felt that way, so this was before it had even been on trails to get beat up. But if it got a flat spot from sitting then that could be a possibility.

Bushings, I'm going to assume they are good based that it's felt this way even when new new after I installed all the new parts. I also did all the recommended gusset/double shear upgrades day 1 as well. Sway bars links were upgraded but swaybars themselves are stock.
No matter what anybody tells you ALL these tires are JUNK.. Just inner tubes with knobs on them ......Pick the knobs that best suit your terrain...
 

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After (3) sets of tires I find they are oval every morning and warm tires smooth out more quickly. In paved campgrounds, or at home in AZ I hit the pavement right away and it's a bit of a carnival ride of wobbly tire rotation. The warmer it is the quicker it goes away. Stock tires, Kanati Mongrels, ITP Ultra-R all of them do it to some degree.

Dwayne
 

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No matter what anybody tells you ALL these tires are JUNK.. Just inner tubes with knobs on them ......Pick the knobs that best suit your terrain...
Haha, yeah either way I’ll just pick whatever tire I want. I wanna try the roxxzilla’s but I have no major issues with the libertys for now so will wear these down first before choosing anything I think.

After (3) sets of tires I find they are oval every morning and warm tires smooth out more quickly. In paved campgrounds, or at home in AZ I hit the pavement right away and it's a bit of a carnival ride of wobbly tire rotation. The warmer it is the quicker it goes away. Stock tires, Kanati Mongrels, ITP Ultra-R all of them do it to some degree.

Dwayne
Good to know it’s not just me, or just these tires. Thanks for your input.



Btw, I did end up getting an alignment but only the front, 1/4” toe in, the tech was worthless and I was showing him what to do. I’d like to think he was just lazy but who knows.
The right rear camber and toe were off the most but we didn’t adjust those. Maybe another day, somewhere else.
 

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The Liberty tires you have are radials, they should not need to get warmed up. How far was your alignment vs theirs? notice any difference?
 

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I was going to suggest not spending more than $10 on the alignment as it’s going to be total guess work and eyeballing. The car is almost never going to be that level as when they’re setting it. Get in the gas the front comes up, arms down, toe goes in or out.

I’ve only had big horns on mine but they’re wobbly no matter what, but do get better as they warm up. My next step is 32’s and sure I’d like to keep as much tread as possible but I know they’ll wear faster on blacktop, or cinders, or boulders than sand.


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Haha, yeah either way I’ll just pick whatever tire I want. I wanna try the roxxzilla’s but I have no major issues with the libertys for now so will wear these down first before choosing anything I think.


Good to know it’s not just me, or just these tires. Thanks for your input.



Btw, I did end up getting an alignment but only the front, 1/4” toe in, the tech was worthless and I was showing him what to do. I’d like to think he was just lazy but who knows.
The right rear camber and toe were off the most but we didn’t adjust those. Maybe another day, somewhere else.
I HAD to fix our rear tire alignment due to the factory's "small bolt/big hole" syndrome in the rear bulkhead for my own sanity... that is just WRONG that the rear tires can move around like that when the plate gets loosened!!

After installing the ZRP dog bones, ZRP plate, and LMUTV rear rods, we laser-aligned it ourselves quickly and close enough until our Eibach Stage 2 springs get shipped and I get them installed, then we will do the final, bang on laser alignment ******* style. With BLR, beer, 2 proper length 2x2s, tape measure, 6" laser level, zip ties, and a 7' long piece of PVC pipe...lazer alignment 101 will commence...
 

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I checked my alignment on my 2019 Rc turbo r when it was almost new, putting som add-on on, just a tape measure to get it close. It was so far off I couldn’t understand how it tracked like it Did. I run 90 on both dirt and pavement more times then I probably should. Me and my brother could understand why it was set seemingly so far off. I forget what the issue was but it was over an inch out in front, I left it like it was because i figured it must be something to do with OffRoad buggies. it bugges me but there is no issue at 90mph!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I was going to suggest not spending more than $10 on the alignment as it’s going to be total guess work and eyeballing. The car is almost never going to be that level as when they’re setting it. Get in the gas the front comes up, arms down, toe goes in or out.

I’ve only had big horns on mine but they’re wobbly no matter what, but do get better as they warm up. My next step is 32’s and sure I’d like to keep as much tread as possible but I know they’ll wear faster on blacktop, or cinders, or boulders than sand.


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Very true, but I was also curious about camber and also the rear just for piece of mind.
Front left camber is pretty straight, a lot more negative camber on front right that I wish I could adjust.

The right rear had a lot of toe in and negative camber I would like to get fixed eventually, and now knowing is just bothering me haha!

The Liberty tires you have are radials, they should not need to get warmed up. How far was your alignment vs theirs? notice any difference?
Mine was actually fairly even in front. BUT they were both toe out and I was fairly certain I set them to be both toe in haha. But at least they were even side to side.
Honestly it doesn’t feel terribly different from the adjustments they made which was just making them slightly toe in except now my steering wheel isn’t as straight as I had it so I’ll probably adjust that which will basically undo everything they did :/ oh well haha

I HAD to fix our rear tire alignment due to the factory's "small bolt/big hole" syndrome in the rear bulkhead for my own sanity... that is just WRONG that the rear tires can move around like that when the plate gets loosened!!

After installing the ZRP dog bones, ZRP plate, and LMUTV rear rods, we laser-aligned it ourselves quickly and close enough until our Eibach Stage 2 springs get shipped and I get them installed, then we will do the final, bang on laser alignment ******* style. With BLR, beer, 2 proper length 2x2s, tape measure, 6" laser level, zip ties, and a 7' long piece of PVC pipe...lazer alignment 101 will commence...
I did the zrp dog bones, plate and their radius rods as well but never adjusted the rear but I DO want to since the right rear is very toe in and negative camber. Sucks with the high clearance rods you can only adjust the upper arm (camber) without removing anything but to adjust toe you’d have to remove the plate and turn the heim joint.
 
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