[Fugly]

Hi There to all our American Cousins,
I am picking up my New 2013 Maverick tomorrow and wanted to know from you more experienced owners, what is the best way to run these units in.
These are my questions;
1, Should I drive it under 5000rpm for 5 hours, before driving it hard?
2, Do I need to get the drive belt retentioned by the dealer after a certain number of hours?
3, I have been told I need to get the clutch bolts loctited and retensioned by the dealer after 10 hours of hard racing, is this the case?
4, Is the main drive belt covered under the Can Am warranty?

Cheers from Down Under,
Fugly.

 

[heavysledz]

Welcome to the forum Fugly (best user name ever :crazy: )

1, Should I drive it under 5000rpm for 5 hours, before driving it hard? Drive it at varying speeds and RPM's at 3/4 throttle or less. No full throttle runs or extended periods of a single speed or RPM.
2, Do I need to get the drive belt retentioned by the dealer after a certain number of hours? The clutches on the Maverick do not have any adjustment for belt tensioning.
3, I have been told I need to get the clutch bolts loctited and retensioned by the dealer after 10 hours of hard racing, is this the case? There is a recall for the primary clutch bolt. it gets replaced with a stud and gets locktited in place and then has a nut that is torqued down to hold the clutch in place. Have the dealer look up Campaign 2014-003. You do need to do the first service at some point after the first 10 hours of use. All of the details are outlined in your owners manual
4, Is the main drive belt covered under the Can Am warranty? The drive belt is not covered under warranty typically but depending on the situation, some folks have been able to get the dealer to cover it.

If you are worried about the belts and clutches like many of us, possibly consider upgrading them. Do some browsing on here and you will see a wealth of information to educate yourself with. ENJOY!

 

[Andy]

G'day mate. I been breaking in all my motors using this method for many years with great results.

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

You don't retension these belts, but you should make sure your 2013 Maverick has the clutch bolt and starter recalls done at time of delivery. I don't know for a fact, but I seriously doubt the belt is under any warranty. Number one Item to buy for your new ride is a spare belt. Nothing worse than being out in the middle of BFE with a blown belt, and no spare. Spend a little time on this forum doing a bit of research. There's a TON of good information here. Congrats, and good luck with your new ride.

 

[Fugly]

Thank you for your feedback, especially the 'Break In' methods. I am a little confused, the dealers and 'Heavysledz' recommend the easy 'break in' but Andy's MotorMan' links recommends getting operating temp up to normal and then give it a boot full and simulate race conditions? Even if I did the latter method (which sound like more fun), I doubt the clutch and belt would stay together (based on all the negative posts on this forum)?

 

[heavysledz]

Honestly speaking, the belt issues are hit or miss. Some folks never have had an issue and some have blown belts after few miles. I highly recommend you break in the belt before you hot rod it….the belt needs to go thru a few heat cycles before it is broken in. Everyone has a different take on how to break it in. I personally, ride it at varying speeds and RPM's but don't put a full load on it for about 5 minutes to get it good and hot. Let it cool down for 20 minutes and repeat 2 more times. After that…..ride it like you stole it. The design of the stock primary clutch lends itself to slipping, so you can overheat or glaze a belt pretty quickly under the right (or wrong) conditions). Just be sensible about it. If you have a heavy load or if you are towing or in deep mud or climbing a steep hill going slow, use low gear. If you ride in hot arid conditions like I do in the high mountain desert, consider installing a CVT belt temperature gauge to monitor your belt temps. I did and it has potentially saved my belt on more than one occasion. If you experience a lot of high belt temps, you could install a CVT auxiliary blower. STM sells a nice kit for $125 USD.

 

[Andy]

I had 0 issues with my OEM clutch. Mine is an early release, vin #324 (prior to the 1st and 2nd clutch bolt recalls), so I was probably playing with fire. I did glaze my belt, but that wore off by my second ride, and that belt lasted about 750 miles of mostly dune riding.

If you get (or have it already) the clutch bolt recall done, I don't think you have any worries on the clutch. Thats just my opinion, and you know what they say about opinions...

There are a few schools of thought on break in. I posted a link to MotoMan because he does a better job of explaining his break in method than I would. I have used his method with good results, but ultimatly it's up to you to use a method your comfortable with

 

[Ice Can-Am]

Welcome to the site.

 

[Glamisfan]

Welcome to the site! I did the motoman break in method, because I'd rather have a strong running motor then get 1000 miles out of my first belt.

 

[LBSwank]

Welcome to the site your gonna love ur new machine

 

[desertdog]

Welcome to the site.......mate

 

[MavMax]

Good to have you on board!!! Now let the fun begin!!!

 

[Fugly]

Thank you for the warm welcome to your great forum. I took the new Mav out on Sunday and did 60km of various speeds and revs. It seemed that the engine gained power after approx 50km.
I had quite a bit of 98 Octane fuel in it but after reading some of the posts on the forum I will drop it back to 95 oct.
Belt and clutch seemed good. I did find the front wheels seemed to lift up on cornering and I was not driving it that hard.
I turned the adjuster knob at the top of the front shocks to make them stiffer and that seemed to help.
I am glad I read the forum before taking it out, I had a rear and a front tyre with only 8psi in them and the other two were about 10psi. I found all beadlock nuts were not much more than finger tight so I gave them all an extra turn (I will buy myself a small torque wrench).
I sprayed the whole buggy down with a silicone based lube/protectant and it worked a treat, the mud just fell off it without the usual staining.
Cheers from the Land of Oz.