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Looking into ordering a Xrs rr max once the 2022s come. Curious what those of you that have experience with the BRP extended warranty have to say about it. Is it worth it? Is the coverage good for the performance machines?
 

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If the extended warranty is part of a promotion or deal then great.

But I personally wouldn't be buying extra warranty from from them. Too pricey imo. I would rather do any work myself anyways more often than not even under warranty. Dealers can be brutal when it comes to mechanical work.

Where warranty really can be worth while is for something like catastrophic engine failure. But I just roll the dice on that one.
 

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I purchased my Warranty through my BRP dealer,,, but it was a Kawasaki "Good Times" plan, which I've had good experience with in the past. Usually less cost than other warranties, but good service. The Kawasaki Good Times Plan usually gets really good reviews as well. The dealer gave me a decent deal on the extended plan, (4 years for $1k) and they are a competent shop, so I jumped on it.

First ride in, I blew a fuse since BRP routed my headlight harness in such a way that the Rad fan contacted it and wore through the insulation and shorted out. I could have repaired that myself, but chose to see what BRP would do since I was hoping it was a small section of harness they could replace. (didn't know better at the time). Took it in, and told the dealer I DID NOT want them to replace the entire harness on the car if that was what they had to do. A couple days later, my dealer stated BRP would gladly repair it, but they would have to replace the entire wiring harness. I took the car home and repaired the section of harness that was damaged myself, the correct way. (IMO)

I noticed my Master Cylinder leaking after my original 6 month warranty was out. I called them up, they took care of it, replaced the MC, flushed the brake system and cleaned up after themselves. No hassle, no deductible, no cost to me. (as it should be)

Probably would have cost between $600-$750 to have that done without the warranty. (best guess) The MC costs between $200-$300 if I were to purchase on my own.

If I have one more small issue in the next 2.5 years, (that I can't/won't handle myself) it will have paid off. If not,,, I lost a bit. Just depends on your wrenching skills and, to an extent, your luck with the car.

Best of luck with your decision. (y)
 

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It really depends on what the cost is, IMO. When I bought both my cars a few years ago, I got RPM One through my dealer for $950 for 4 years. From what I read on here, and hear from members, that number can't be touched anymore, and definitely not by RPM One. They're the best extended warranty company out there, but with all the claims, they have raised their rates.

Looks like the average cost is somewhere between $1200 - $1400 or so. It's the luck of the draw when you pick your car. Some have no problems, some have nothing but. If your car blows an engine, trans, or diff you're way over that cost. My blue car, the warranty paid for itself 3 times over. The gold car I have not needed to use the extended warranty (knock on wood)!

It's your choice, like Clint Eastwood once said "Do you feel lucky"? LOL.
 

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i wouldn't bother with BRP extended warranty. I would look into seeing what kind of after market warranty your dealer has to offer. My dealer had an after market one that we bought. It covers everything minus me running into a tree/rolling it over/needing an insurance claim. It had 3 different levels. The most expensive level covered everything including theft! If my rig was stolen, the company would write me a check for $3k on top of the value of the rig. We went the medium level that covers everything i mentioned above, including my battery! So if my battery ever sheets the bed, i can bring it in and get a new one. no questions asked
 

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Like other types of insurance, you may never need it, or when you do you really need it.
As Hollywood mentioned; "like Clint Eastwood once said "Do you feel lucky"?

Thank goodness I had it, I had a simple misfire issue that couldn't be diagnosed by the original dealer, they spent over $4500 throwing crap at the wall burning up extended warranty $$ not long after the original warranty expired. Aegis was very very good to me!
 

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Bought a powertrain only warranty for the X3 - used it three years and 35,000+ miles later to put a new long block and turbo in it.

Dealer billed the extended warranty company $11,300 - fairly nice return on three $1,400 spent for the policy, but…


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Bought a powertrain only warranty for the X3 - used it three years and 35,000+ miles later to put a new long block and turbo in it.

Dealer billed the extended warranty company $11,300 - fairly nice return on three $1,400 spent for the policy, but…


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i'm curious.. have you ever looked up the value of your rig with that many miles on it?
 

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Bought a powertrain only warranty for the X3 - used it three years and 35,000+ miles later to put a new long block and turbo in it.

Dealer billed the extended warranty company $11,300 - fairly nice return on three $1,400 spent for the policy, but…


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You did well!
 

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Bought a powertrain only warranty for the X3 - used it three years and 35,000+ miles later to put a new long block and turbo in it.

Dealer billed the extended warranty company $11,300 - fairly nice return on three $1,400 spent for the policy, but…


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I thought your mileage was a typo, then I read your 2nd trip thread. You dont have a thread for failures by mileage do you?
 

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I thought your mileage was a typo, then I read your 2nd trip thread. You dont have a thread for failures by mileage do you?
if he did it would be a little different since he has a bunch of pavement miles mixed with trails/dunes/etc miles. I think the only thing he doesn't drive through is thick mud lol
 

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I thought your mileage was a typo, then I read your 2nd trip thread. You dont have a thread for failures by mileage do you?
The first 8,000 miles were the ROUGHEST with me Think’n I had bought an indestructible mini-trophy truck - still, ZERO issues besides a front sway bar link and a rear wheel issue from a rock/scraper issue since I had no flaps on it.

After that…chassis issues were my primary nemesis - chased cracks around the chassis up until 26,000 miles or so before swapping it out for a gusseted up one.

Clutch made it to 16,000 miles before it HAD to be swapped, but it needed it a few thousand miles earlier.

Brake pads made it to 12,000 miles.

Original axles got swapped at 17,000 miles.

Steering rack was fairly loose at 20,000+ - swapped it somewhere around there.

Motor got me to 35,000+ miles and WAS still running alright when it got rebuilt…

Still has the original transmission and front differential.

Been adding weight to the machine gradually over time, which reduced the service life of axles, clutches…

It’s at 3,300+ pounds now and needs an external oil cooler to keep it cool in the summer.

Still go’n though - though with the added weight, parts don’t last NEARLY as long.

Axles get swapped at 12,000+ miles now instead of 17,000+, and rear wheel bearings don’t last nearly as long as they used to - maybe 8,000 miles or so is all I can get out of em now…MUCH less if somebody greases em….


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The first 8,000 miles were the ROUGHEST with me Think’n I had bought an indestructible mini-trophy truck - still, ZERO issues besides a front sway bar link and a rear wheel issue from a rock/scraper issue since I had no flaps on it.

After that…chassis issues were my primary nemesis - chased cracks around the chassis up until 26,000 miles or so before swapping it out for a gusseted up one.

Clutch made it to 16,000 miles before it HAD to be swapped, but it needed it a few thousand miles earlier.

Brake pads made it to 12,000 miles.

Original axles got swapped at 17,000 miles.

Steering rack was fairly loose at 20,000+ - swapped it somewhere around there.

Motor got me to 35,000+ miles and WAS still running alright when it got rebuilt…

Still has the original transmission and front differential.

Been adding weight to the machine gradually over time, which reduced the service life of axles, clutches…

It’s at 3,300+ pounds now and needs an external oil cooler to keep it cool in the summer.

Still go’n though - though with the added weight, parts don’t last NEARLY as long.

Axles get swapped at 12,000+ miles now instead of 17,000+, and rear wheel bearings don’t last nearly as long as they used to - maybe 8,000 miles or so is all I can get out of em now…MUCH less if somebody greases em….


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Pretty damn impressive!
 

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The first 8,000 miles were the ROUGHEST with me Think’n I had bought an indestructible mini-trophy truck - still, ZERO issues besides a front sway bar link and a rear wheel issue from a rock/scraper issue since I had no flaps on it.

After that…chassis issues were my primary nemesis - chased cracks around the chassis up until 26,000 miles or so before swapping it out for a gusseted up one.

Clutch made it to 16,000 miles before it HAD to be swapped, but it needed it a few thousand miles earlier.

Brake pads made it to 12,000 miles.

Original axles got swapped at 17,000 miles.

Steering rack was fairly loose at 20,000+ - swapped it somewhere around there.

Motor got me to 35,000+ miles and WAS still running alright when it got rebuilt…

Still has the original transmission and front differential.

Been adding weight to the machine gradually over time, which reduced the service life of axles, clutches…

It’s at 3,300+ pounds now and needs an external oil cooler to keep it cool in the summer.

Still go’n though - though with the added weight, parts don’t last NEARLY as long.

Axles get swapped at 12,000+ miles now instead of 17,000+, and rear wheel bearings don’t last nearly as long as they used to - maybe 8,000 miles or so is all I can get out of em now…MUCH less if somebody greases em….


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Without the shadow of a doubt, you've gotten your money's worth out of this car!
 
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The first 8,000 miles were the ROUGHEST with me Think’n I had bought an indestructible mini-trophy truck - still, ZERO issues besides a front sway bar link and a rear wheel issue from a rock/scraper issue since I had no flaps on it.

After that…chassis issues were my primary nemesis - chased cracks around the chassis up until 26,000 miles or so before swapping it out for a gusseted up one.

Clutch made it to 16,000 miles before it HAD to be swapped, but it needed it a few thousand miles earlier.

Brake pads made it to 12,000 miles.

Original axles got swapped at 17,000 miles.

Steering rack was fairly loose at 20,000+ - swapped it somewhere around there.

Motor got me to 35,000+ miles and WAS still running alright when it got rebuilt…

Still has the original transmission and front differential.

Been adding weight to the machine gradually over time, which reduced the service life of axles, clutches…

It’s at 3,300+ pounds now and needs an external oil cooler to keep it cool in the summer.

Still go’n though - though with the added weight, parts don’t last NEARLY as long.

Axles get swapped at 12,000+ miles now instead of 17,000+, and rear wheel bearings don’t last nearly as long as they used to - maybe 8,000 miles or so is all I can get out of em now…MUCH less if somebody greases em….


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I'm impressed! I expected a much longer list or at least some components being far more frequent. Like brakes for example, there's a lot of mud where I ride, so 1,500 miles on a set of EBC Race pads is about the best I can get with mostly off road mileage.

When it comes to wheel bearings.... I'm also a dry guy, but I've heard 23 pumps is the magic number if you're into that kind of thing. :ROFLMAO:
 
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