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Discussion Starter #1
10 hour service coming up and plan on doing it myself. What are your guys thoughts on using diesel oil like 5w40 rotella or the mobile 1 diesel oil. I believe it meets brp's specs. Any other suggestions, just can see spending that much on the brp oils...
 

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your going to get 10 different opinions there..lol..I stayed brp first change, but will change over to mobil or something next time, royal purple, one of those
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Lol yea I figured everyone swears by their brand. I have always had good luck w rotella t6 synthetic in my toys but just wanted to know if anyone is running it in their mav . Can beat it for the cost also
 

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use a name brand oil and make sure it meets or exceeds the following: 4-stroke SAE 5W40 engine oil that meets or exceeds the requirements for API service classification SM, SL or SJ
 

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Rotella or Some Brad Penn oil. Something with Zinc in it. Most OIls are stripped of Zinc and that's Killin motors. Maybe even add some Lucas Zinc additive.
Welcome!
 

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Use valvoline VR1 if your concerned with zinc/phosphorus content or get a zinc additive. Do a little homework before you jump on that bus as it is a hot issue among race drivers with older engines but may not be what your looking for. Bonds well which is awesome for cold starts but is also the creator of carbon build up which is rough on a tight tolerance built "new motor" and It helps clog your cat if you have one which you do if you haven't removed it.
 

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Autozones in AZ carry it but only in straight weights, probably check ebay. Again, do some research on oil with high zinc content as it does create a lot of carbon deposits which is why it was cut down considerably. Manufacturer's are now requiring a low cold viscosity like 5 or even 0w because it will travel faster to the dry spots to make up for the zinc oil that was already stuck there. Not that my opinion matters but I wouldn't use it in my maverick but I would run it in a hot rod with a motor from pre 1990 or similar, hopefully I'm explaining this to make sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hmm so I am kinda of back where I started which was the mobile 1 0w40. And thanks for your opinion I am new to all of this maverick stuff lol
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Also does it matter that the 0w40 mobile 1 says European car formula lol sorry for all the newb question just trying to get the right info
 

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My opinion only is run whatever brand you want just use the weight that can am recommends and make sure it meets sae and api standards, keep your receipt if you do it yourself, then in the event of a warranty claim you can prove that you used what they recommend/require, they can't deny you based on brand as long as it's to spec. CYA! Just be careful of the sky is falling cuz there's no zinc thing, cuz often times it's the other way around.
 

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Also does it matter that the 0w40 mobile 1 says European car formula lol sorry for all the newb question just trying to get the right info
The reason it says that is becuase over 95% of all Europeans cars manufactured today now use this oil exclusively. BMW, Mercedes, Audi, Volkswagon etc....it is good oil and I personally run it in my wife's Mercedes SLK but I am not sure if it was formulated for engines that run at such high RPM's. Meaning I don't know if it has adequete amounts of anti shearing agents in it....
 

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Hmmm So which mobile 1 oil are you guys using that are using mobile.
Just my $.02 but if you wanted to stick with Mobil 1 I would recommend using the V-Twin 20W-50. Here is why...

Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 fully synthetic motor oil is designed for air-cooled, large-displacement bikes. Because of their design, these engines can generate very high localized oil temperatures and high overall bulk-oil temperatures.

As you know, a typical air-cooled V-twin's rear cylinder gets a lot hotter than the front cylinder – it's a matter of airflow. When it's hot out and you're stuck in traffic, the oil temperature in your bike climbs rapidly. Above about 250°F, conventional motor oil is going to break down. Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 fully synthetic motor oil is good to above 300°F.

Like Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40, Mobil 1 V-Twin has and the same high-temperature detergent technology for superior wear protection and engine cleanliness, even at elevated oil temperatures.

With Mobil 1 V-Twin oil, you can go the full length of the manufacturer's recommended oil change intervals with ease.


Allthough the Maverick is not an air-cooled engine.....the engine location is subjected to a lot of ambient heat from being closed up in the center of the vehicle. Also, the engine does not hold very much oil so it is not getting much time to cool down prior to being recirculated thru the engine. With the OEM Can Am 5W-40 oil, my oil pressure is around 55psi at idle when cold and once it is fully warmed up, it is as low as 22 psi at idle. To me, that is too low. The higher viscosity in the 20W-50 doesn't drop nearly as much. At idle, I see 57 psi cold and 44 when fully warmed up. I am not worried about fuel mileage and the little bit of power robbed by running a thicker oil is no commarison to the benefits of maintaining high oil pressures in my opinion. Also, I am not concerned with cold starts with a thicker oil such as this since it does have high levels of phosphorus/zinc....
 

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yes....since the 10 hour service....I live in Idaho and it does get cold in the winter so I may change to a lower viscosity but haven't decided yet.....
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hmm good info I may try that this first go round. I live in Texas so this should be fine in the winters as well. Thanks man
 

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Good points heavy, but if it's psi your looking for why not some gear oil! Just poking at ya! To each his own:crazy: This is one of those topics that gets argued but everyone runs what they are used to. Put oil in it and if you learn you don't like it...... Pop the plug! I just had my 10hr done at dealer with brp 0w40. Haven't decided what I'll run yet when I start changing it next time.
 
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