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Discussion Starter #1
Hey team, I am at a loss on this. The wiring diagram for my Sport XRC shows JB1, a 3 screw terminal block under the dash, and specifically terminal 3 POST_ACC as the 12VDC supply to, I would imagine, add on accessories. The color code of the wire that feeds this terminal, W453, is purple (not the actual color of the wire, which is RD/BN), and according to the definition table for these diagrams, purple would mean a switched wire. On my rig this terminal is constant 12V, and not switched at all. Is this the norm out there? Is the diagram incorrect? There certainly are other wires and, for example the extra 3 pin connector for the winch remote, that have a switched wire 12VDC. I am only wiring in a 2 port USB charger, but even that should not be powered unless the rig is running. As an alternative, and because I like this little easy to use fuse block, I am taking power for my accessories off right down at the battery. This little fuse block fits perfectly under the seat, and could go directly on the battery terminal, but then it would, just like the terminal 3 mentioned above, be hot all the time. To fix this I will use an automatic battery isolator that will turn on at 13.4VDC and off at 12.9VDC. I already have the thing from another project where I did not need it, so no big deal on the cost, as it's pretty $$$. In the end, my entire accessory circuit will now be powered automatically through the isolator when it sees 13.4VDC, and shut off when it drops to 12.9, about 2 minutes after the ignition is turned off.
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Isolator Pre Wired.jpg
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I don't think I would get hung up on wire colors or diagram discrepancy. It's not uncommon for large OEMs to have these types do differences in the finished product. On the three terminal block under the dash locate the witches on mine I think it's Red and white stripe far left. Constant is middle and ground is right. Switch it around to match the drawing and carry on with life.

What's that isolator called. I like the idea but can you start the machine under 13V?
Or it will just isolate the functions you've wired to it.


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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yes, this isolator only automatically powers my accessory loads, nothing else. This gets me around the issue of the Post_Acc being hot all the time. So it sounds like on your vehicle this terminal is only on when your ignition is on? On mine, both terminals 2 and 3, that's the center and top terminal in this photo, are hot all the time. Yours would be as the diagram depicts, and as it should be, hot only when key is on. Mine is hot all the time. The bottom post is ground for the winch relay.
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Yes, this isolator only automatically powers my accessory loads, nothing else. This gets me around the issue of the Post_Acc being hot all the time. So it sounds like on your vehicle this terminal is only on when your ignition is on? On mine, both terminals 2 and 3, that's the center and top terminal in this photo, are hot all the time. Yours would be as the diagram depicts, and as it should be, hot only when key is on. Mine is hot all the time. The bottom post is ground for the winch relay. View attachment 252803
Interesting. My unit is a 100R DPS so probably less wiring but that area under the dash is the same. There has to be some ACC wiring on it otherwise the dash or other accessories would be on or usable with the key on. Test around key on and key out. You'll fine switch power on so thing. You may have to change some wiring if there is incorrect wiring.

Where did you find schematics BRPs website. Or purchased service Manuel.


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Discussion Starter #5
Hmm, hadn't thought of tempting the key altogether from the ignition. I'll try that. Yes, I purchased the in line manuals, only like $24.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm going to stick with my battery isolator and separate fuse block setup either way, I like this as a separate bus for accessories. Terminal 3 is indeed switched on my rig as it should be. I just needed to learn how to use a key switch dah!
 

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There is a little black plug with a black wire and a red with black stripe. That is keyed power as well. I removed that plug and added a metripak 280 connector and mated it with its corresponding connector. I ran it to a bussed terminal which gives me keyed power.
 
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