I've got new tie rods to install so I'll try this. Not sure just where I might be able to measure to frame though because the UHMW skid plates pretty much cover everything up.
You could, but I don't really see the need. The thing is though, in order to rotate the wheel you'd have to move the car forward or backward, or jack it up and spin the wheel. BUT, by doing either of those you are moving the car from the string and going to lose the base line measurements you got from the beginning.
My experience is bouncing it does settle the suspension some, but not completely. Under normal conditions when my car is parked in the garage there is about 1" space between the ceiling and the top of the radio antennae. If I raise the rear suspension, then drop it, the antennae is bent over from hitting the ceiling. After vigorously bouncing the rear of the car, and I'm no small guy, the antennae still just touches the ceiling. I don't think rolling it back and forth will drop it another inch. I plan to take it around the block, maybe hit the dirt lot before I do my alignment.You our don't need to measure off the frame if you make a whole box around the car. Square all you corners. If the box is square. No need to measure off the frame. Also. If you just bounce it and roll it forward and back a foot or two. You will be fine. That's what we do when we set up our race cars for quarter mile oval.
My experience is bouncing it does settle the suspension some, but not completely. Under normal conditions when my car is parked in the garage there is about 1" space between the ceiling and the top of the radio antennae. If I raise the rear suspension, then drop it, the antennae is bent over from hitting the ceiling. After vigorously bouncing the rear of the car, and I'm no small guy, the antennae still just touches the ceiling. I don't think rolling it back and forth will drop it another inch. I plan to take it around the block, maybe hit the dirt lot before I do my alignment.
Making a 'box' string around the car is a good idea, I'll look into doing that. I was also trying to thing of a way to find the centerline of the car front to back and measure off that.
That does make sense and I'll try it. Probably be anal and drive it around the block right after too. LOL.The the reason that happens is because when u jack the suspension up. The wheels go down and in. When u let the jack down the wheels grab the ground and will not slide out to a relaxed position. This is suspension bind. Jump on it all day. It will not settle all the way cause there is tension pushing out on the wheels. Move it forward and back a little. Then brunch it. Your antennae wil be right back where if u took it around the block and rolled it in. Guarantee it.
I thought the same thing when I saw that video. Figured if someone here didn't know that then they wouldn't be attempting the job in the first place. I'll be measuring off the center line on mine due to the skid plates blocking the frame measuring points. Should work good though. My only new question is a matter of measuring the toe in. I plan to set rear at 0 and front at 1/8". Now since this method uses outer wheel diameter to measure this, that means 1/8" is different on a factory 12" wheel than on my new 14" wheels. Maybe I'm being anal here but I do think it makes a difference. Measuring 1/8" on a 12" wheel would probably be closer to 1/4" if you did it on an even larger 15" wheel. Aren't professional wheel alignments measured in degrees to avoid this stuff?You should either find the center of the machine front and rear and measure out to set up your string line or measure off the frame. I don't like the method in the video only due to him setting the line from the rear wheel. Most of us upgrade the rear radious rod to be adjustable ,worn bushings or a bent radio us rod would really throw off the string line from being parallel to the machine.
If that is the case then what size tire. I've done my alignment quick and dirty before measuring only off the tires. Works good enough in the field. Then I set it at less than 1/4" which worked good but like I said above, if people are measuring 1/8" toe in using a 12" wheel they will be well over 1/4" toe in on a 30" wheel.Remember 1/8 inch is at the front of the tire. If you are measuring at the wheel lip you will be off. Also, on a four wheel drive vehicle that is used in 4wd a lot it is not uncommon to set the front slightly toe out. That is because in a 2wd car the tires are being pushed and tend to toe out a little due to tolerances in the suspension. 4wd cars the front wheels are pulling which tends to make them toe in a little. It is a trade off either way depending on how much you drive your car in 2wd or 4wd.
Yeah, back from the dead... I'm trying to remember what I did. Honestly I don't think it matters all that much for dirt/sand. We're only taking +/- a 16th inch. If I was driving on pavement then I'd be concerned.Bringing the thread back from the dead. When you guys are measuring the front toe, are you measuring1/16" on both sides to equal 1/8" of total toe?