Can-Am Maverick Forum banner

1 - 20 of 62 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,122 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Was just browsing through the threads and didn't remember seeing anything about DYI wheel alignment. Thought I'd share this little trick that works good for me. Might be helpful to those who plan to change out the tie/radius rods. Using this technique, both front and back wheels can be checked and adjusted at the same time.

Step 1) Set up two jack stands with a string pulled tight, position so string is a couple inches away from the outside of wheels and at the same height as wheel hubs.
image.jpeg

Step 2) Measue off the frame at two different points (front and back) and move the jacks/string until measurement is same at both spots from the frame.
image.jpeg

Step 3) Measure the front and back of wheel to the string and adjust tie rod accordingly.
NOTE: When checking front wheels, make sure steering wheel is centered.
image.jpeg
image.jpeg

Step 4) Repeat process for other side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
I read this in another forum and tried it but it didn't work out but that one didn't have pictures and didn't mention the use of jack stands. I think I could do it now thanks.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,463 Posts
FYI the dealer charges 150.00 bucks for this, and no alignment shop I checked with would even touch it.


Thanks for info. Tim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,437 Posts
If anyones in Phoenix area with a little more complex alignment you can take it to Network alignment on Cave Creek. Great guys. They do off road stuff... They pretty much let me use their rack and helped me align my LT kit while working with Alex CT on the phone...charged me $100....cant beat that...

For just getting to-in front and rear SoCal's way would work great...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
MY SHOp in salt lake city does them on sxs for $69
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,463 Posts
What we need also is the front and rear toe settings. If I remember right last time I asked Alex this it was zero front and rear. Tim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,122 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I know there are different toe in & out recommendations for specific tires and riding style. But, I just used the specs in the shop manual. I have rear set at "0" toe and front set at about 1/8" toe out. That seems like a good setting for the sand.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,232 Posts
I have the rear of mine at zero and the front at 1/8" toe in . Zero on the front or toe out my front end felt like it was darting or hunting .
Toe in acts like its on rails


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,463 Posts
I know there are different toe in & out recommendations for specific tires and riding style. But, I just used the specs in the shop manual. I have rear set at "0" toe and front set at about 1/8" toe out. That seems like a good setting for the sand.
I have never heard of toe out for an off road vehicle. Is that in the owners manual or service manual ? Tim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,010 Posts
I've got new tie rods to install so I'll try this. Not sure just where I might be able to measure to frame though because the UHMW skid plates pretty much cover everything up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,010 Posts
I think I have a point to add here that is important. Prior to alignment the car must be at its natural resting sag height. What I mean by that is you can't have just had the car jacked up in the air for other work. When the car is lowered off jack stands it will sit a little higher than normal. If you just lowered the car you need to drive it around the block or something to settle the suspension. The reason is bump steer. The alignment will change as the suspension goes up and down so starting the alignment at the correct suspension sag makes a difference. I hope I got that right.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,414 Posts
I think I have a point to add here that is important. Prior to alignment the car must be at its natural resting sag height. What I mean by that is you can't have just had the car jacked up in the air for other work. When the car is lowered off jack stands it will sit a little higher than normal. If you just lowered the car you need to drive it around the block or something to settle the suspension. The reason is bump steer. The alignment will change as the suspension goes up and down so starting the alignment at the correct suspension sag makes a difference. I hope I got that right.
Good point. If anyone dont think it matters measure your allignment and just pull the car up so it dont settle to the same height it was and remeasure. You wont get the same measurement
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,213 Posts
Might be a stupid question but after making adjustments to the tie rods should you rotate the tires before measuring again?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,122 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Might be a stupid question but after making adjustments to the tie rods should you rotate the tires before measuring again?
You could, but I don't really see the need. The thing is though, in order to rotate the wheel you'd have to move the car forward or backward, or jack it up and spin the wheel. BUT, by doing either of those you are moving the car from the string and going to lose the base line measurements you got from the beginning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
488 Posts
Youtube has videos showing you how to ues the string method. I took meserments from the outside lip of rim to string.
 
1 - 20 of 62 Posts
Top