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I watched the video at least twice, and it does a good job of explaining how the Smart-Lok works, but there was zero info comparing the Active, Rock and Mud modes.

My question remains unanswered. Are these three modes exactly the same, or are there differences?
Go through and look at all the part numbers. I bet only things different are switches. That answers your question
 

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I wonder if the switches are just on/off or provide different voltages to the smart lock diff. If anyone has the service manual could likely answer this question. Maybe I’m overthinking the simplicity of the switch, it that’s what I do!


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There is some sort of ECU that runs the smart lock. So we know the parts are the same, the only real difference could be the programming, and that's only a maybe, Like was pointed out there is only so much you can do as in a little more or less preload and how quickly it engages.

While knowing information is typically a good thing I am not sure what real difference it would make if the programming is a little different, the parts all appear t be the same. Tim
 

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So we know the parts are the same, the only real difference could be the programming, and that's only a maybe, Like was pointed out there is only so much you can do as in a little more or less preload and how quickly it engages.
This is the gray area I was wondering about, but since the part numbers for the Smart-Lok ECU are allegedly the same, I would expect the programming to be the same also.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
So it is possible that with all the same part numbers that it is just marketing wank so the sales guy can say oh yea its make for rock crawling or mudding see these specific features for rocks or mud
 

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So it is possible that with all the same part numbers that it is just marketing wank so the sales guy can say oh yea its make for rock crawling or mudding see these specific features for rocks or mud
No - BRP isn’t that company.
 

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A switch cannot send higher or lower voltages. It is simply that, a switch, that connects 2 wires together to allow a connection.
I believe the reason for the different names is why would you want a mud machine with a rock switch, etc.
 

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I highly doubt the programming is any different. Could you imagine the confusion? Hey George, is this one rock or mud programmed? Gee, I don't know Frank, you programmed it. But George, its the same part number. I know Frank, just reprogram it.
 

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I highly doubt the programming is any different. Could you imagine the confusion? Hey George, is this one rock or mud programmed? Gee, I don't know Frank, you programmed it. But George, its the same part number. I know Frank, just reprogram it.
I bet that's how some power steering units are only 280 watts ! Lol

Tim
 

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Took me a long time to get answers to this. Just did a demo ride with CanAm mavericks and got the answers
In 4x4 mode, the front diff locks at different times depending on the settings and unlocks when come off throttle unless in fully locked mode.
Trail: Front diff locks after a couple of slipping tire revolutions
Trail active: new mode with very rapid front diff locking with little wheel slippage to engage
Rock: locks immediately with throttle input

All the above unlock when release the throttle, making it easier to steer.

Front fully locked: This mode on the RC version {? Other models} immediately locks the front end and keeps it locked until unselected. This can affect steering and cause difficulty steering especially on firm surfaces as both tires are locked and rotating at same rate without slippage.
I was told Casey Currie did the entire KOH in Rock mode on his RC.
 

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I am new to the maverick community. I have been looking for this information and found the official BRP explanation stashed away on their website. I have not seen this information before so I hope it helps.

Basically the CPU will prioritize different parameters for each of the trail (wheel speed and steering angle), trail activ (engine torque and vehicle speed), mud (engine torque and wheel speed) and rock (engine torque and throttle position) settings. Releasing the throttle and reducing speed unlocks the front wheels. Note also that locking is progressive in all but the mud mode to allow easier steering input (I expect this not to be not an issue in deep mud)
 

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I sell the Smart-lok system and to set one up for a customer I need the vin of the machine to get the right parts. After that it just comes down to picking the module the locker comes with (Mud, Trail, Rock). Standard module that the system comes with is the Trail Module.

Here is some what I have:

 

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I sell the Smart-lok system and to set one up for a customer I need the vin of the machine to get the right parts. After that it just comes down to picking the module the locker comes with (Mud, Trail, Rock). Standard module that the system comes with is the Trail Module.

Here is some what I have:

Do you still have to go to the dealer to have it 'flashed' for the new software then ? Some guy on face book named Nick America says .Yes ?
 

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Do you still have to go to the dealer to have it 'flashed' for the new software then ? Some guy on face book named Nick America says .Yes ?
If you are installing a Smart Lok upgrade kit you DO NOT have to go to the dealer to have it flashed. It is plug and play and is actually a pretty well designed kit from BRP. Another huge bonus: the idiot engineers finally designed a differential with real bolts that secure the ring gear (with thread locker no less) and they physically cannot come out during operation.

Be careful though if you have E-Powersteering. If you did SL upgrade with a mode module (as opposed to just the basic SL in Trail only), you will lose functionality and/or end up with Check SL displayed. The dealer cannot fix this and you will spend a bit of money attempting it. Turning off DPS and SL as your told to will not do the trick. You either have to disconnect the mode module (and lose you Activ/ Rock/ Mud mode) or cannibalize the OEM power steering module/ motor for parts to satisfy SL (it searches for PS position and rate information). I removed part of the module, made a secure case for it, plugged it in to factory wiring and secured up under dash. In doing this though, you lose some of the logic of SL (steering input is false) and risk excessive wear or damage.

Overall, SL has been a great diff. Much better design (of course Visco is literally the biggest POS out there in design and execution). SL does give you the ability to snap axles though; our first one broke in the first two hours of use. Change fluid often as it gets contaminated quickly with hard use.
 

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Funny how none of this or any info is in the manual. I looked all over for the info.


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