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Discussion Starter #1
I plan on riding lost trails in pa and a few places like that, can anyone recommend suspension settings or should i just leave as set by dealer or at least check how the dealer set up?
 

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At a minimum, you should be at 15" ground clearance. There are plenty of threads to check set up. Check Ed Poundsand's thread. Long read, but very informative. If you try to tackle this by yourself, have a friend help. Easier for 2 guys to turn the springs. You also need to have your car off the ground when you do. There are YouTube videos too.
 

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Maybe look up the fox rec. setting , I set my car up with their raceing rec and it was pretty close to where im at now its a great place to start they have a trail set up also
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Didnt find fox Trail setting yet but I did find this :
Tuning for Conditions

Hard Pack Conditions
Generally adjust compression damping as soft as possible, to handle square edges while still having some control with bottoming.
Loamy Conditions
Adjust damping a little firmer for the loamy terrain, jump faces and bottoming. Optimum settings still should be on the softer side for square edges and rutted corners.
Sandy Conditions
Adjust damping towards the firmer side... increase your fork compression and increase your shocks rebound. In general, two (2) clicks each. You want the bike to ride on top of the terrain, allowing the forks to ride up a little higher.
Rocks and Roots Conditions
Adjust compression more towards the soft side of your baseline settings; this helps to absorb the small sharp hits. You can also speed up rebound both front and rear; this adjustment helps wheels react quickly from rock to rock. This will also produce a very soft plush feel and help reduce arm pump/fatigue. This type of setting is good for woods or trail riding, however it will not be firm enough for fast MX track conditions; the bike will have a wallowy feeling, and will have bottom out issues in woops and jumps.
Not using full travel, feels harsh, poor traction while making turns

Causes
Overly stiff springs or compression damping

Solutions
Reduce compression damping; softer coil springs
Bottoms, soft throughout travel

Causes
Spring rate too low throughout travel, or too little compression damping
Solutions
Increase compression damping; stiffer Coils Springs
Excessive sag, feels soft initially

Causes
Initial preload too low
Solutions
Increase spring preload
Harsh over small bumps but uses full travel

Causes
Initial spring rate or preload too high, too much compression damping
Solutions
Install softer springs; reduce compression damping; reduce spring preload
Takes first bump in a series well but harsh over later bumps, poor traction in washboard corners

Causes

Too much rebound damping
Solutions
Reduce rebound damping.
Too Much Compression

Symptom
Ride is harsh, but not as bad as too much rebound. As speed increases, so does harshness. Rear end will want to kick up when going over medium to large bumps (shock resist movement even on medium size bumps)
Solutions
Decrease compression until harshness is gone
Tip
To learn what damping can do for your ride, experiment with the compression adjustments and rebound adjustments. We suggest you start with compression damping. Turn the compression adjuster to full firm, ride your bike for a while, and then turn the adjuster to full soft. This will give you an idea what compression damping can do. Likewise do the same with your rebound adjusters; feel what fast rebound is like, feel what slow rebound is like
Wheel chatters over small bumps during braking or downhills

Causes
Too much preload, causing suspension to top out; possibly too much compression damping
Solutions
Reduce preload, decrease compression
Front end springs back too quickly after bumps, poor traction in bumpy corners

Causes
Not enough rebound damping
Solutions
Increase rebound damping
Rear Tuning tips

Tips
Compression damping, rebound damping. The spring preload sets the ride height of the vehicle, and determines how much of the total travel will be available for compression and how much will be available for extension. Damping keeps the vehicle from behaving like an old sacked-out Cadillac; i.e., still bouncing 10 seconds after hitting a bump. Compression damping slows the shock when it is being compressed. Rebound damping slows the shock when it is rebounding.
Not using full travel, feels harsh, poor corning and braking traction

Tips
An overly stiff spring rate or compression damping; possibly too much preload
Rear shock Lack of Compression

Causes
The rear suspension will feel too active (wallow excessively). On jump landings, the shock bottoms too easily.
Solutions

Increase the compression "gradually until the balance/feel is optimized". You will notice better bottom out control, and the wallow symptom will go away.

FOX glossary of terms


Coil Spring
Consists of a metal wire formed into a coil which can store energy when compressed, and releases energy as the load is relieved.
Compression Damping
The damping circuit that absorbs the energy of compression forces on the damper.
Damper
A fluid chamber with a means of regulating the fluid flow, to govern the speed of the moving end of the damper during compression or rebound strokes.

Damper Speed
The relative speed in which the moving end of a damper compresses or rebounds.
Damping
The process of absorbing the energy of impacts transmitted through the fork or rear shock on the compression stroke, and the process of absorbing the energy of the spring on the rebound stroke.
Damping Circuits
There are normally four damping circuits which affect the damper's speed. There is both a low and high speed circuit for the compression and rebound strokes.
HSC
High Speed Compression damping is the damping circuit in the shock absorber or suspension fork that is tuned to provide suspension travel control at high speed over square edged bumps. All Fox products are HSC tuned by extensive lab and field testing. Too low of HSC damping will cause excessive bottoming out in rough terrain. Too high of HSC damping will minimize suspension travel in rough terrain and cause loss of traction.

LSC
Low Speed Compression damping is the damping circuit in the shock absorber or suspension fork that is tuned to provide suspension travel control at low damper speed conditions. All Fox products are LSC tuned by extensive lab and field testing. Too low of LSC damping will cause the excessive travel use, brake dive and wallowing of the bike on small bump terrain. Too high of LSC damping will cause loss of traction on small bump terrain.
Suspension packing
A term used to describe the ride characteristics of a rear shock or fork that has too slow of a rebound setting. A damper with to slow of a rebound setting will stay compressed after hitting one bump and cannot rebound quickly enough to absorb the impact of the second or third bump. The solution is to adjust the rebound to a faster setting.
Preload
Preload is applied to the fork and shock springs in order to bring the bike to the proper SAG dimension. Adjusting preload to the proper SAG dimension insures traction as wheel load gets light and drops into bumpy holed sections of terrain.
Rebound Damping
The damping circuit that controls the stored energy release of the compressed spring, in order to reduce the rebounding speed of the damper.
SAG
To sink, droop, or settle from pressure or weight
Valve Shim
A thin, spring steel flat washer used to exert resistance on the oil flow through a piston. A series of valve shims (valve stack or valving) with varying outer diameters and thicknesses are arranged in sequence to provide a particular damping effect.
SLT (Scraper Lip Technology) Oil Seals
Patented scraper lip technology excludes outside dirt and retains internal fork oil. The rubber in the seal is specially compounded for extremely low friction and wear.
Spring Rate
Spring rate is described by force, in pounds or kilograms, needed to compress the spring one inch or centimeter.
Stiction
A combination of the words static and friction. This word is used to describe the tension exerted on the moving damper parts by the stationary parts like the bushings, seals, and wipers. Low stiction is more desirable, because it has less of a negative effect on the damping.

Un-sprung/Sprung Weight
The un-sprung weight of the motorcycle are parts like the wheels, brakes, swingarm and suspension linkage, and the lower front fork legs. The sprung weight is the sum weight of all the parts of the motorcycle that are supported by the suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
ok, looked at youtube and other things, and pretty intimidated about this, i did the rebound low & hi compression, i then tried putting the tool on the nut to loosen the ring and couldnt budge it AT ALL. Anyone have any helpful tips? wd-40 or maybe put a 2ft pipe on the tool? - For front cant do that on the rear!

Also im a little nervous about how tight to tighten up if i even get it lose, dont want to over tighten and ........

appreciate the help especially if its like trying to teach an idiot cause thats about my skill level.

Oh yeah ive seen different ways to do spring, space from top or spring length, on the space from top have seen a few different numbers and dont even know if it was for x ds or not so input on that would be helpful.

I dont think i would feel that comfortable trying to do the springs while its on a jack, even if stands are underneath. Was thinking about using ratchet straps
 

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use a hammer and a large screwdriver or punch to knock the preload rings loose the spanner tool they give you is useless....

using straps to compress the springs makes it a lot easier to adjust the preload! The recommended spring length is to get you close don't be afraid of adjusting beyond that to get your ride height where you want it...

The dealer does not adjust the suspension there shipped low to meet a federal requirement for body roll that and the stock springs sag with use you will have to readjust to compensate for the sag once in a while.

You have to get the shocks fully extended to adjust preload do one end at a time jack it up and put some jack stands under chassis to stabilize it you should be fine if you don't feel safe doing it get a buddy to help? before you tighten everything up drop the car on the ground roll it forward and backwards or drive it around for a minute to get it down to ride height check it a readjust if necessary once your happy tighten down the lock rings.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks without screwdriver it’s impossible, got front done starting on back, still neee cross over in front but it’s a start
 

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Jack up your car so tired are off ground. Use a punch and hammer to knock the lock ring loose, then use the spanned wrench to increase preload. You need to increase preload front and rear enough so you are around 14.5-15” ground clearance (xds, right?). You need to get the ride height up to get a more compliant ride

Start with lsc and hsc all the way open. Set rebound for the middle of the range in the front and a couple of clicks slower (more rebound dampening) in the rear. I like a little less rebound up front so I’m not packing, and a little more rebound in the rear to stop donkey kicking. Test and tune from there. You can get them ok with adjustments, but eventually you will benefit from a full revalve and spring job (the stock springs are terrible)

For the crossovers, the higher they are, the softer the car will feel...the main spring will not engage until later in the stroke. The more body roll you will feel also.

2018 X3 XDS

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Discussion Starter #14
Should I have done crossover first? Can’t see how I can do now
Also should i try using screw driver on crossovers? They seem very soft, i gave a few whacks and looked like the driver was about to cut the cross over so stopped. Someone on local fb group said do 5.75 from the shock body to the top of adjustment nut, I did that and ended up with 19" clearance in the rear, guess Ill go back and just try and do it by length of spring.

Giving up for the night
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Much appreciation for your time!! Should I loosen the top adjustment nut till i can get to the crossover? Its where the red arrow is, in general do ppl loosen the crossover 1st? aaaa.png
 

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Hmm...it’s been so long since I had stock springs I can’t remember...but based on that pic, it looks like you will need to set your crossovers before the preload otherwise you can access them


2018 X3 XDS

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Mkx3 you want the shock to be fully extended to get to the crossover rings. release your strap if it's still compressing the spring. the top out spring may be pushing against the crossover, but not so hard as to keep you from turning the loosened rings.

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