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here's how we did it on our race Maverick.. of course your application will be different- but according to BRP racing dept...this is the most effective way to get cooler air "blown" into the CVT area...sucking the air according to them is nowhere as effeciant. We run a remote temp gauge on the dash and a custom CVT fan switch from UTV inc..

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This looks very similar to something I was told by another racer. He was just cutting a hole in the cover where your fan is installed. He says it pulls enough air in thru the hole to keep everything cooler and extends his belt life.
 

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Don't use a filter. We tried that with Rhino's, and it didn't work as well.
We have tried a couple of things...bascially like panty hose but more durable material which we bought in bulk, Motorcycle pre-filters work well too but I think are too pricey
 

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Has anyone ever thought of putting a Y connector inline and putting the fan on one side and allowing the intake to use the other. One could use a Y pipe that has one side at 3" and the other at 2" and buy a 2" fan. That will allow for the airflow and give a little extra with the fan. Any thoughts on that?
 

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would think that the blower wouldn't be very effective unless there was a damper installed because air will flow to the path of least resistance and would just blow out the other inlet pipe....
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Here's some really good info from another forum.





Some more info. Thanks four4all for this info. not sure what machine this is off of but i think articcat. i would think they would all be similiar.



Ok here are the hard numbers:



Baseline - STOCK CVT NO BLOWER FAN IN LINE AT ALL

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



RPM ----- CFM --- +/-%

IDLE ---- 0 ------- 100%

2000 ---- 53 ------ 100%

3000 ---- 82 ------ 100%

4000 ---- 100 ----- 100%

5000 ---- 163 ----- 100%

6000 ---- 227 ----- 100%

7000 ---- 237 ----- 100%



STOCK CVT WITH RULE 3" BLOWER MOUNTED ON INLET TUBE BUT WITH BLOWER OFF

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~



RPM ----- CFM --- +/-%

IDLE ---- 0 ------- 100% (blower fan not moving)

2000 ---- 53 ------ 100% (blower fan still not moving)

3000 ---- 77 ------ 94% (blower fan started moving)

4000 ---- 97 ------ 97%

5000 ---- 103 ----- 63%

6000 ---- 139 ----- 61%

7000 ---- 159 ----- 67%



STOCK CVT WITH RULE 3" BLOWER MOUNTED ON INLET TUBE BUT WITH BLOWER ON

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~



RPM ----- CFM --- +/-%

IDLE ---- 65 ------ ∞

2000 ---- 97 ------ 183%

3000 ---- 117 ----- 142%

4000 ---- 125 ----- 125%

5000 ---- 201 ----- 123%

6000 ---- 230 ----- 101%

7000 ---- 243 ----- 102%



Conclusions:



1) The in line mounted blower used to help cool the CVT should NEVER be left off

is is absolutely choking the airflow, so either run it anytime the machine is

running or do not bother installing it.



2) The 3" inline Rule blower never inhibits airflow at any point, but up higher

it is maxed out. The blower is rated at 135 cfm so now I would recommend at

least the 4" blower which is rated at 235 cfm. I think the 4" blower would make

a big impact probably achieving double airflow of stock at least up to 4000

maybe 5000 rpm and likely raising the airflow at 6000 and 7000 rpm as well.



3) I think the ultimate setup would be an inlet and outlet blower combined with

taking in air from a cool source.



4) If there were more bends in the inlet and outlet the added blower will show

more of an improvement than this test reflects because the stock CVT will be

flowing far less with more bends, so even the 3" blower would have a much more

pronounced impact.
 

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I'm still watching to see how much these truely extend the belt. I like to start every season with a new belt anyways so for me not sure if this helps me much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·

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I bought a 4" blower off eBay, and a 3"x2" abs reducer, a few hose clamps, and a rubber rain gutter reducer coupler from Lowe's. I then bent a piece of 2" strap to hold it in place. I wired it to a switched wire that is plugged into a dummy plug right next to the fuse box. It has red and black wires just like the plug behind the dash and the one somewhere by the rear firewall. When the key is on, so is the fan.
When I turned the key on to check that it was blowing the rite direction, it wasn't, or so I thought. I turned the key off and watched the blade spin down. It was turning correct. So I started the motor, and at idle it was still blowing air out the inlet due to the reducer. But as soon as I revved the motor up, it started doing its job.
Did you use a fuse anywhere when wiring it where you did?
 

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here's how we did it on our race Maverick.. of course your application will be different- but according to BRP racing dept...this is the most effective way to get cooler air "blown" into the CVT area...sucking the air according to them is nowhere as effeciant. We run a remote temp gauge on the dash and a custom CVT fan switch from UTV inc..

View attachment 1662

View attachment 1663
Is the fan pulling air out of the side of the clutch case or pushing air into it? I have a 2016 with 2 inlets and 2 exhausts tubes, and i am trying to install a fan like your setup, to help cool mine as well, but i can't tell which way yours is blowing. thanks for any input.
 

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I am confused as well? Fan on engine off air should not be coming out intake side? He states reving engine air flow direction changes to normal? Fan blades on clutches take over/ Check the air flow on you bilge fan again i think its spinning the wrong way. Just bilge on not motor it is 12v dc just switch wires should spin opposite way. Should have more air comlng out exhaust side then intake side of cvt. Just my opinion thanks.
 

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My design produces way more air than a bulge air pump. Electric motor fan is rated at 800cfm. Obviously air restriction reduce this number dramatically. Total plug and play. No modifications.

So I have attached a few pictures and website links to show what I did. (Note: third pictures is showing upside down.)

Basically you remove curved plastic piece that attaches to clutch inlet hose and attach the blower to the inlet tube to clutch, then attach the clear hose to blower, then attach adaptor to clear hose, and then original inlet to adaptor and reinstall.

This does decrease the temps, but the main benefit is that you will lower your temp extremely fast when decelerating or at an idle. I kept it on at all times. Mainly when I was running in the dunes is where I needed it the most. I hope this helps!

12 Volt High Output Motor Blower, EV West - Electric Vehicle Parts, Components, EVSE Charging Stations, Electric Car Conversion Kits

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DT33M4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FDCGSEG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Product Auto part Automotive lighting Technology Vehicle
Pipe Auto part Fuel line
Auto part Wire Tire Engine Automotive tire
Wire Electrical wiring Auto part Technology Electrical supply
Hood Carbon Vehicle Car
 

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Maverick4me2, your setup does look like it works well, my biggest concern was the 15a draw from the fan motor, but i've seen this post quite a few times and was curious which way the air is blowing, it should be an intake, but it looks (from the way the motor is mounted), that it is pulling air out of the clutch box. I like to research all options.
 
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