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Discussion Starter #1
Just wanna share what i done with the CVT...

Problem : im always on the RED part of the alba gauge (always 240)... so i have to stop or go slow for this go down to the yellow part...
i already upgrade my clutch to the STM and still the same.., and my friends Equal..they already destroy more than 5 belts (2013 and 2014 mavs)

So after reading all the posts about how to cool this thing, i tried 1 fan for pushing air and another to take it out... (the one encharged to get it out melt during the ride) (i place it almost on the roof with an extension of the oem tube that goes out from the CVT.

So now i decided to insert 2 fans (270CBM each).., and tomorrow i would see what happens...

This one is connected from the filter of the CVT at the side, so i insert it behind the steering wheel...(you could not see them unless you see under the steering with the head almost on the floor...
la foto 2.JPG la foto 3.JPG


The other one, i cut the 2nd oem tube that go to the CVT and place it behind the air filter.., and place a mesh for the dust (like the oem one at the side)

la foto 4.JPG la foto 5.JPG

Both are impossible to be seen and you can only heard them if i start them without the engine...

Tomorrow would have the results...
 

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I hate to tell you this but there is only one inlet and 2 exhaust ports on the 2013's. From what you are describing, the second fan you installed is on an outlet port and you are trying to pump air into it......I'm guessing you are not going to have good results.....If you want to add a second inlet blower, you need to do it on the CVT cover directly in front of the secondary. The 2014's have a second air inlet there already and should be easy to adapt a blower to it. The 2013's and early 2014's don't have the second inlet....

Other than that, i am really curious why your temps are so high. I have a QSC/STM setup and the Alba gauge and I typically see temps between 140-180. Rarely if ever do they reach 200.
 
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I hate to tell you, your clutches aren't tuned right.With a good tune on the clutches, your belt temps will be in the low 160's to low 180's. Mega's are even a little lower than that I think. Hammering on mine I'm at 192 (checked with IR thermometer).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
many thanks for the info..., I would change the 2nd fan to insert air through the side (as the 2014´s)..., that would solve one issue...

Now, i need HELP on how to tune my STM clutch and my friends also...., WE JUST BOUGHT IT AND INSTALL IT...plug n play...
So i imagine its not working as it should be and im loosing power also..., so for making it simple, what mod should i do to this clutch
All is standard..., just have the muzzy set up (muffler and fuel controller)
I always use the DAKAR travel..Dunes and high mountains very fast...almost 3/4 of the throttle every time
thanks
 

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I hate to tell you, your clutches aren't tuned right.With a good tune on the clutches, your belt temps will be in the low 160's to low 180's. Mega's are even a little lower than that I think. Hammering on mine I'm at 192 (checked with IR thermometer).
i agree with Andy, you need to have your clutches tuned. who did you buy them from?
 

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u can run a super high power boat bilge pump , they work great for low speed driving , but when u go fast the clutches spin enough air and the pump actually restricts flow from there making it hotter,

ur clutches aren't tuned right at all and ur losing power like u said ,
 

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u can run a super high power boat bilge blower , they work great for low speed driving , but when u go fast the clutches spin enough air and the pump actually restricts flow from there making it hotter,

ur clutches aren't tuned right at all and ur losing power like u said ,
There I fixed it for you.
 

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Who tunes clutches in Peru?
 

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Benzo is right about an inline "bilge" type blower impeding the airflow at speeds. In the lower rpm range, the stock primary clutch is useless, and the mechanical blower is validated. In the higher rpm range, which is where the engine spends 90 % of its time, the OEM primary draws way more air than the girly bilge blower can pump. The blower fan is now an obstruction, and temperatures will begin to rise. Upon building the Monster Mav last year, we installed a bilge fan in the factory intake duct (right behind the drivers dash panel). We then added a second blower of the same type behind the driver seat, and cut a 3" inlet collar into the secondary side of the CVT cover, to blow air onto the secondary, and we have been fighting elevated CVT temperatures, shredded belts, as well as primary failures since we built the car, BUT! That is now a thing in the past. I removed the obstruction that was placed in the primary intake duct, and went back to a stock primary clutch with modified fingers, and re-located the bilge pump to the rear of the vehicle, to reduce the positive pressure inside of the CVT cover. It's analogous to opening the front and rear doors of a building to get air flowing through the previously enclosed area. I made this change just before this years Mint 200, and it is the first race that we did not have any issues whatsoever with the clutch OR belts. As a matter of fact, the day after the Mint, we went to plaster City to try and overheat the CVT system, or at least shred a belt. Ran full song through the sand washes for over an hour straight, and Nate's handy-dandy gauge never went above 180 degrees! Couldnt blow a belt, or overheat the CVT area. I'm convinced that our CVT woes are now a thing of the past. Yay!
 

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so instead of adding the blower under the dash, your better off adding the blower in the back of the rig?
 

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Benzo is right about an inline "bilge" type blower impeding the airflow at speeds. In the lower rpm range, the stock primary clutch is useless, and the mechanical blower is validated. In the higher rpm range, which is where the engine spends 90 % of its time, the OEM primary draws way more air than the girly bilge blower can pump. The blower fan is now an obstruction, and temperatures will begin to rise. Upon building the Monster Mav last year, we installed a bilge fan in the factory intake duct (right behind the drivers dash panel). We then added a second blower of the same type behind the driver seat, and cut a 3" inlet collar into the secondary side of the CVT cover, to blow air onto the secondary, and we have been fighting elevated CVT temperatures, shredded belts, as well as primary failures since we built the car, BUT! That is now a thing in the past. I removed the obstruction that was placed in the primary intake duct, and went back to a stock primary clutch with modified fingers, and re-located the bilge pump to the rear of the vehicle, to reduce the positive pressure inside of the CVT cover. It's analogous to opening the front and rear doors of a building to get air flowing through the previously enclosed area. I made this change just before this years Mint 200, and it is the first race that we did not have any issues whatsoever with the clutch OR belts. As a matter of fact, the day after the Mint, we went to plaster City to try and overheat the CVT system, or at least shred a belt. Ran full song through the sand washes for over an hour straight, and Nate's handy-dandy gauge never went above 180 degrees! Couldnt blow a belt, or overheat the CVT area. I'm convinced that our CVT woes are now a thing of the past. Yay!
So to confirm what you did.....you are now running the OEM CVT intake setup in the primary intake and built your own intake with a blower in the rear feeding the secondary......can you share what model blower you are using and also elaborate on your "modified fingers on your stock primary"....
 

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Glamisfan shared results of a 3 inch bilge blower cooling the cvt through out all Rpms but as the Rpms got higher the benefit was less but still higher than stock. The results he shared came from a test done on a Artic cat. The interesting part of the test result was that if the blower was not running then there was a reduction in airflow so the blower must always be running. Also the test was based on a 3 inch blower. You can get a 4 inch blower which will perform far better and fits the stock rubber cvt intake under the dash perfect. I did it and I believe the STM blower kit is setup exactly how I have it.

A test with anemometer is the true way to know if the airflow is better or worse with the blower.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
In peru its only the brp representative and he also sells this stm clutches..., but he just import them and install them as they arrive...
So when i ask him for tune it, he doesnt know what to do....
I have to learn how to do it so it would be very helpfull if someone gave me an idea of what to change and i can discuss this with the mechanic...

Pd: with or without the blowers im at 200 temp in highway at 40 mph....
 
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