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Yes, they have injector bungs, they are ready to run on an ATV, or a Commander, but would require custom plumbing like for a turbo.
 

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I have been running a turbo on my Renegade for years, I run the turbo oil supply from the port right above the oil pressure sensor, but I run a restriction right at the turbo for oil control. I run a ball bearing turbo, & they don't need full oil flow. Also, I made a high volume oil pump for mine, so volume & pressure is not a concern, but the piston oilers would prolly have less preessure, if someone were to bleed off oil from the center port. The oilers are shut, during idle, btw. I run the turbo oil drain back into the mag cover, works great, but my turbo is in fronta the front cylinder, not behind. I tried to get the turbo as close to the cylinder as I could for "impulse" spooling, mounting the turbo away from the engine, will make lazier spooling, since that is a pressure system them.

I have tried shitloads of different size turbos, but I have had different size engines too. I run aftermarket racing turbos, so they don't really cross to stock style turbos, as far as size goes. Size, depends on personal preference, tuning, fuel used, engine rpm, & engine displacement
 

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I have found that using common turbo math does not suit 1-2 cylinder 4 cycle engines, the majority of the turbos are designed for 4cyl up, having 2 engines with the same displacement one being a 4 cyl and the other for a extreme example a single cylinder with the same size turbo is not going to work. On the 4 cylinder the turbo may be perfect but on the single the turbine is going to choke off the motor. 4 smaller pulses through the turbine vs one large one, the math works out to be the same for both engines but obviously the end results are not great. Look at the turbine flows honestly I think that is the most important for these smaller engines, I dont have much experience only a couple of projects but so far that's what I've came up with. It sucks but for me throw the math out the window, or use it then double or triple your turbo size to get a good guess then trial and error from there.
This is correct. I have found the same. But it also depends on engine rpm & fuel, as methanol will spool way faster than gasoline, esp with a good ecu to help.

I can reflash a stock ecu for a turbo, no problem, $450. for any of my flashes. No charge to change flashes for one I already have, but it's $50. for custom flashes, like custom fuel or timing tables, or custom rev limit.
 

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So if I understand this cirrect, the oil feeders shut off under low pressure. Then if I have an open oil line to my turbo it might have been shut off the whole time?


No, the check valves are in the banjo bolt that holds the oiler on, they only turn oil off to the oiler itself, at low pressure.
I'd put a ball bearing turbo on it, & restrict the oil, since they don't need it so much.

Lotsa ideas here:https://www.google.com/search?q=tur...earing+turbo+oil+restrictor&safe=off&tbm=isch
 

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Sorry, what I meant was that the oiler to the piston was off the whole time cause I took all the pressure away by feeding my turbo with a non restricted line. This would cause a lake of pressure to the oiler for that piston. This is all I can think of why my piston wanted to seize on the front cylinder..
I guess it could have, the old motors didn't have oilers, but they galled pistons. My 2014 Outty galled a piston, stock, no oilers in the ATV's.
Measure your oil pressure without turbo, then install a Ball Bearing turbo, with a restricted line see if pressure drops.
 

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From a roll your RPMs should already be up around 7000 and turbo already spooled, Im worried about dead start and how long till I see boost. I ride a lot at the dunes and im sure will be racing from the bottom to the top of the hill from a dead start. Couldnt imagine waiting for the boost to kick in why the guy next to me with a stock 12.1 compression Maverick pulls away..

I could be wrong since I only have about 10 miles on my old set up, but there was a "bit" of lag..
If you're racing, hold the brake a bit, & spool the turbo some
 

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Boosted Launch would be ideal, not sure the belt will like it. Need to design a brake on the primary. I guess there is always the option of adding a little NOS to get things moving


Nah, not if you do it right. I can make over 30psi before I leave, on a pure drag setup, no problem. You couldn't ride it around, but it works great, for a pure race setup, & no belt problems.
 
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